Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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I have an FS5W71B of unknown history that goes into second and third just fine except for a frequent grind. I understand it’s a fairly common problem and I’m pretty certain it not a clutch release issue because I don’t have a problem getting it into reverse. May need new synchros, but I read in a really old post on another forum that putting stronger spread springs behind the shifting inserts helped avoid that problem. The idea was that it pushed the synchros into the cones with more force. Any experience with that? Dennis
Last reply by swflaz, -
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My car doesn't have a hose for the wintertime connection from cleaner to manifold. I don't really need it in Sacramento, but do I want to put it on there anyway? I don't think I ever see one on most if not all of the cars that get a proper restoration on BAT, but it just feels weird to have that exhaust manifold going nowhere? A quick search here really didn't provide much other than a small thread from 05. If I do need it, is it really this from Z Car Depot as the original looking hose?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hey guys, I have an L28 Engine, N42 block and N47 head. My goal was to rebuild the engine and make it a reliable engine that can last a long time. I want to avoid having to pull the engine anytime soon. Power is not my biggest concern however I would like to be above the stock power numbers minimum with this rebuild since it's going to gain a little weight with aftermarket AC. For the most part I will be sticking to the stock efi for smog reasons and would like whatever I do internally to not mess with my ability to pass smog. I have almost all refurbished or new parts for the intake manifold too which should be a big help. The condition of the block is the cylinder …
Last reply by Ownallday, -
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On one the first starts on my 73 restoration project, I notice I didn't have any oil pressure showing on the gauge. I was pretty sure I had oil pressure because the engine wasn't making a lot of noise but shut it down just to be on the safe side. Using the forum, I was able to find out how to check to determine whether it was the gauge or the sending unit. Turns out it was the sending unit. I ordered a new one from Zcar Depot. I installed it and that took care of the issue. I started noticing a small oil leak under the car. I had a hard time locating the source but finally discovered it was coming from the oil pressure sending unit. It appeared dry around threads, bu…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Doing a rebuild on a 05/1970 L24 engine and looking for advice on pistons. Need flat top +0.20 or +0.30 83mm pistons, anyone bought any recently and know what is still available? Usual suppliers all out of stock.
Last reply by Yarb, -
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I just changed my oil and filter for the first time (71 240z) and was wondering if my pressure readings seem accurate to folks. 10w30 at idle (9000 - 9500) with the engine temp at midpoint gets me about 1/4 reading on the dial. If I give it some throttle to keep it steady at 2K it climbs to 1/2 gauge and hold steady. Does this sound right? It seems the PO put on a new sending unit but it's the gold one which after some digging here it seems some people don't speak highly of. Also I did some reading on dipstick type and accuracy and it seems my e3001 has just slightly shorter dimensions from shoulder to tip than most folks report. My reading is about 3/16th over …
Last reply by Racer X, -
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Friend had an exciting day yesterday. 75 280 with the early Z (78-80ish) 5speed (the one with no reverse lockout). Pulled away from a stop light in 1st, got about 10 ft, and BANG!!!!!!! And the car stopped dead. Needed a tow home. He drives the car 50,000 km a year, drives it daily. Has a modified L28 “maybe” 200hp. Not a sense of anything going wrong, just WHAM. I rebuilt this trans over a year ago with the usual bearing and sychro refresh. He pulled it last night, brought it over this morning, we tear it down. Found something I’ve never seen before.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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As I'm a complete novice to most of the transmission topics, this was a neat learning opportunity for me. I needed to separate the TO bearing and collar for installation of the new transmission. After consulting with a couple of friends, I decided to try the Maddox Ball Joint Service Kit I bought from HF. I found it had the right size collar for the TO bearing, and then I found a 27mm socket would drive out the collar. Here's the assembly ready for pressing. It worked for the most part, but the bottom plate kept the assembly from driving the collar all of the way out. I could try using my vice to finish the job, or I could get medieval. …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I noticed today that MSA has begin to offer refurbished differential hanger brackets on an exchange basis. In their write-up on these new parts, they discuss applications in relation to solving the differential 'clunk' problem and emphasize that Series 1 owners will need to install the Series 2 differential hanger parts and moustache bar in order to be able to use the Series 2 front insulator (I believe that this is because the arrestor strap won't fit otherwise). This made me curious, so I started to look around some of the commonly-used parts vendors' websites to see if anyone was offering the Nissan Series 1 part (PN 55415-E4102, for reference). A quick look turne…
Last reply by xs10shl, -
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So as part of the general overhaul I'm replacing the leaking water pump, and the t/stat cover gasket. I wanted to remove the entire housing to give it an overall cleaning & replace the mount gasket. The issue is the long bolt feels like it's going to snap - I only tried to loosen it slightly, and it just felt wrong. If you've ever snapped a stud I think you know what I'm talking about. The question is, is that a thing that happens with these? It is a relatively long bolt, so it is possible it's twisting somewhat as it turns. I just don't want to have to remove the head to address a sheared off bolt, so if it is fairly common for these to snap, I'll leave well enough a…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I was at Road Atlanta watching the vintage racing action. After the day was done, it's time to drive home. I put the transmission in 3rd gear to go down the big hill, and it's letting out a whine that I had never heard before. As I pulled up behind other traffic, I put the car in 1st, there was a really bad noise, and the car lurched. I tried 2nd. The transmission whined a painful whine, and 3rd was about the same. I decided to see if I could make it closer to home to reduce the amount of time getting towed. I could get the car moving in 2nd and quickly shifted through 3rd and on to 4th. I cruised home and only had to come to a full stop a couple of times. The …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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The left hand threaded main shaft nut on the FS5W71B transmissions has been NLA for a while. Smome member here had some made, but guess what? They are back in stock at Transmission Parts Distributors. Just got an email today. Bit pricey, $29 USD..... ouch.... https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-transmission-nut-for-main-shaft-left-hand-thread-fits-datsun-nissan-81-nis-204/
Last reply by Jeff Berk,
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