Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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I'm going to be changing the clutch on my 76 2+2 and I'm considering other issues I'd like to possible have to fix. I am going to have the rear main seal replaced and also the front seal on the trany. But My first question is, can the engine oil pan gasket be changed with out pulling the engine? There doesn't look to be much clearance between the oil pan and the front cross member and I don't know how deep the oil sump is in the pan. My other question is; when I change the clutch, if the input shaft bearing on the trany seems to be getting bad, can that be changed after pulling the input shatf cover (I'm going to be replacing that seal anyway) or does the the b…
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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- 15 replies
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Please refer to the picture below which is not my actual car but best illustrates the issue I have. The view is from the front of the car looking aft down the driveshaft tunnel toward the differential. The problem is that the parking brake assembly equalizer rides right on top of the TechnoVersions differential mount. This has the nut-like protrusion on the equalizer (top red circle) directly in line with the nut on the snubber (bottom red circle) ... so they interfere with each other. In other words, where it shows a space between the red circles, I have zero ... the two hit each other when you try to set or released the brake. Brian at TechnoVersions has not run across …
Last reply by Darrel, -
Clutch Size 1 2 3
by Gary L- 1 follower
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The "clutch chatter" on my 76 280Z 2+2 is getting worse and so I guess its time to replace the clutch. A prior owner put a 5sp trany in it from a later model zx (81-83). I know there were 2 different size clutches, the 2+2 being a little larger. My question is; I'd like to order a clutch kit ahead of taking things apart, if the trany came from a zx coupe instead of a zx 2+2, does it matter so I can be sure I need to order the 2+2 clutch? Also, some clutch kits like the ones below from ebay also include a new flywheel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-KIT-FLYWHEEL-for-75-83-DATSUN-NISSAN-280Z-280ZX-2-2-/151252214731?fits=Year%3A1976|Make%3ADatsun|Model%3A2…
Last reply by munters, -
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What are folks using these days for a gasket on the pickup tube? I've called four places and looked online. Are folks cutting a gasket from material? If so, what material are folks using? If the solution is making the gasket, I'm not worried about cutting out a good gasket shape but I want to be sure I'm using a good gasket material. Thanks!
Last reply by BenC, -
- 22 replies
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I read this in an old post: "Much better to set your timing using total advance of 32 Degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance off and plugged @ 2,500 RPM. So, no matter what the initial mechanical advance is setup for, you'll know you've got it right." How is everyone setting their timing? I have a "Euro" distributor with single points D609-52 I think is the number on the side. When I set the timing at 17 BTDC (at 650 RPM as the workshop manual states), it runs fine but not as well as when I set it closer to something like 27 BTDC at the same RPM. Yeah, I know, that's a lot. And when I rev it while checking with a light it definitely is going past 36 degrees BTDC althou…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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So I installed a 5 speed in my 78 280z. Really like it and shifts well. However, 1 problem I saw when I was installing it and replacing the rear seal to the driveshaft was the very end is bent(Sleeve yoke dust cover. Looks like it was dropped and got the bottom flattened. And the bend has small cracks in it. So, naturally, it leaks fluid slowly, but annoyingly. The manual doesn't show how to pull this off. Ican't tell if there are clip rings holding it in and don't want to damage my good one getting it out. Does it entail removing the rear case from the center section to get at a clip or something from the inside? I would like to swap my good 4 spee…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Just thought I'd start a thread on my upcoming winter project. I got my 240z in May of last year. The car was nicely restored in 2010. I've done a few things to it in the time that I've had it including, wheels/tires, headlight covers, lowered it, ST sway bar kit, pertonix ignition and the most significant is that I converted the car from an auto to a 5 speed about a year ago. The L24 in the car has had an head gasket leak of oil to the outside since I've gotten it. I was going to put on a new head gasket, but this quickly snowballed into me just wanting to put in a rebuilt L28. After searching for a while I stumbled across just what I wanted on craigslist. A reb…
Last reply by blodi, -
- 7 replies
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I have a bad transmission control shaft o-ring. Hoping that this is something i can do without having to remove the transmission. I had an extra transmission lying around so I thought i should play around with it before I fix the actual transmission that is in the car. So far, I removed shifter, and a pin with a clip that is on the external part of the transmission, and a plug with a spring and a plunger. I also removed the cap that is staked in at the end of the transmission control shaft. I can pull the control shaft far enough to expose the o-ring,but i am unable to pull the shaft out completely. I highly doubt that i can work the new o-ring into place. There…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
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This is my first time on the forum so thanks for helping me out. So I need some advice; my neighbor is selling his Datsun 280Z for $1,500, but obviously it had some major problems. He said the air conditioning and speedometer are broken and the engine stalls often and sometimes makes a popping sound. Is it still worth buying? How much do you think the repairs cost. I don't care that much about the AC but the engine and other problems are concerning.
Last reply by Darrel, -
- 27 replies
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Hey friends. So I was finally putting in a new set of points for the Distributor I've restored and cleaned up... and while flipping through the FSM pages, I came across the distributor weight governor springs portion- and something is off here. The distributor I have is an Emissions Control spec D612-52 model, as opposed to the D606-52. I believe it is the original one that came on this Jan 1970 car. They differ slightly, the D612- as far as I can tell, has distributor cap clamps that are two piece, and use a small bracket that holds them onto the body of the distributor- one of the small plated brackets has the cap alignment square that makes sure the c…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 6 replies
- 1k views
I'm about to replace the seal around the speedometer cable where it attaches to the transmission. I've read conflicting and confusing post about the cog or pinion gear. Does the speedometer cog go with the transmission or the differential? Should I put the '72 4 speed cog in the wide ratio 5 speed I just installed to keep the speedometer accurate? Or leave the 5 speed cog in the 5 speed since I didn't change the 180 differential? Thanks for any help.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 9 replies
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A few months ago I discovered a bad head gasket in my 73 Z. Decided to pull the motor and rebuild instead of just fixing head gasket. I've done a lot of small block Fords/Chevy's, but this is my first Z motor rebuild. I want to make sure I do the rear seal correctly so it doesn't develop a leak later on (or immediately ). The seals I'm using are from an IMT gasket kit. The cap side seals are rubber with a wire inside to stiffen. I assume I'll have good luck with these, right? A few questions about assembly: Any thin sealant between cap and block surfaces adjacent to rear seal area? Can rear seal be placed on crank and then install rear cap? …
Last reply by siteunseen,
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