Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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And it just looks off to me. Cylinder 1 is at TDC, set using a micrometer. Head timing set based off manual instructions. Get chain on. Get it all back together. Head torqued. Front cover on. Once the pulley is back on, i look at the marks compared to the marker, and they are no where near one another, and distributor shaft not seeming to line up properly. Been over it two times now, cannot figure where the issue is. At this point my best bet is maybe the pulley failed and i just had not noticed, or during machining the shop took too much off. I will have to measure it all again. Any ideas or thoughts for me to chase here. I would love to have the eng…
Last reply by rossiz, -
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Hi All, Does anyone know the factory rocker valve guide "Lash Pad" thickness for a completely stock E31 head? I have a few factory part numbers but not sure what thickness is the correct one. I've heard .118" & .120" 13218-21000 13218-Y7000 The numbers above might be the same part, but if anyone can help identify the correct thickness and part number, that would really help. Thanks.
Last reply by oemz, -
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I am putting new valve seals on and just want to ask the preferred method. One thing I have never changed out. Just don't want to damage them. Then the SS valves and new springs.
Last reply by gundee, -
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I was getting a small of coolant loss and and found some evidence here pictured. Does it look like to anyone here this may have been leaking into either no. 1 or 2 cylinder? I have a rebuilt E31 going back on as a replacement. I will eventually rebuild this N42 head.
Last reply by gundee, -
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We all know that a lot of the rubber* parts on our 40-year-old cars have hardened with age. Sometimes this leads to cracking, but it seems to depend on the application. (* Caveat: For many of these parts, I'm not really sure that they are made of rubber... as opposed to something man-made). Then there's the issue of exposure oil. Also potentially not good for rubber. Turning to the flexible core of the L-series engine's harmonic balancer, it would certainly be a candidate for age-related problems, and -- for an engine with 'a history' -- it might even have been exposed for years to a caked-on layer of engine oil and dirt. So here's my ques…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Good morning everyone, and happy holidays! For Christmas, I was thinking I'd replace the plugs on my Z as it's been a few years, but I'm not sure where to begin getting the right one. I've read the forums here, and it looks like the best bet would be either the BPR6ES-11, BPR5ES-11, or BR6ES. The issue is that my car isn't stock, and I went through the NKG website and looked at every Z from 1970 through 1985 to get a feel for what they recommend. (I attached the PDF from the site here to help make sense of what the letters mean.) My engine is: F54 engine block, 3mm overbore; 83mm stroke, KA24E shaved flat-topped pistons, 3.098 liters (standard 3.1 kit) P90 head, p…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Dyno results (flywheel) for an L28 prepared for rallying - plenty of torque for street driving too. some weights and spring rates too. Combined DYNO, Weights, Spring, Damper files.pdf
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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Just tuned both of my recently remanufactured SU Carbs and filled them up with ATM fluid. THe car drives great at high speed, however in 1st and 2nd gear when releasing the clutch pedal and accelerating slow, not hard! Imagine getting in a traffic jam or passing a Street bump, the car presents a shaking back and forth motion. Could this be a distributor problem?? Bad Timing or Could the distributor need some inner cleaning with WD-40 or Contact Cleaner?? I have a recently installed Pertronix Ingitor and coil which is delivering the correct spark!!
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Is valvoline vr1 20w-50w a good choise? It for a weekend driven car, not a race car.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hi Does anyone know if this E88 head is an early version or a later? Im a bit worried about the cr because it has been shaved 0.40 (1mm) and im putting 0.40 over flattops in the N42 block now(had dished pistons before).
Last reply by moelk, -
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I dropped off my E31 last week. I had told Dave that among the receipts was a receipt from BC Gerolomy. But the receipt was vague and I couldn't tell what all had been done. Given my time, or lack there of, I had the head removed by my son-in-law and he brought it down to Rebello. I had not seen it off the motor. Dave says big valves, port work, conservative cam. Dave will be putting a cam more appropriate to a 3.0 stroker motor with Megasquirt Pro. Previous owner just saved me a couple grand in Rebello head work! Plus it's BC Gerolomy! That's some old school stuff right there!
Last reply by conedodger, -
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4 yrs ago I pulled the original 2.4l engine, filled it with oil and tucked into the corner of the shop thinking it would never be started again. Well, it's back in it's numbers matching car and I'm getting close to start up and I thought I would check with you guys on a few things before I start cranking. The compression was good when I put it away so last fall I got it on the engine stand, cleaned and painted it, all new seals and gaskets, the head was skimmed. So everything is pretty and lubed, the SU's were rebuilt by ZTherapy, a new Pertronix unit was installed in the original distributor that I gave a bit of an overhaul to, all hoses are new and tight. The e…
Last reply by grannyknot,
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