Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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I have not been able to I.D. this plug in my service manual. , on the driver side of the block at the back of the engine. 22mm bolt head. Is this a coolant drain plug? instead of a freeze plug? Also notice that inside it seems to be completely filled with junk.. ;-( Thanks.
Last reply by txvepr, -
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I have an a14 that i would like to know more about cause all i know about it is that it supposedly has 30000 kilometers and was shiped state side where it ended up in my friends dads garage any info would help place i could goto find out more about it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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- 9 replies
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This is on my 76 280Z 2+2 which has a 5 speed trany which a prior owner put in. The trany looks like it came out of an 81 - 83 zx (one tab on the tail and the speedo tab bolt is on the bottom @ 6:00). I notice my speedometer seems off (slow) so I pulled the speedo cog and it has 21 teeth. I checked the rear diff ratio and it is a 3.54 which means the speedo cog should be a 17 tooth. So I ordered a 17 tooth but when I got it I noticed it is smaller in diameter than the 21 tooth ( 13/16th vs 15/16th, resp). After swapping it in the pinion, which went OK, I put it back in the trany and sure enough it is too small in diameter to engage the trany sprocket to drive it. Anyone k…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Does anyone have Leak Down specs for a newly rebuilt L28 engine versus a well used one? I am starting a rebuild on an old engine and wanted to know how what I currently have would compare to an engine that will have new rings, valves, cylinder honed, etc.... The rebuild engine is not really showing signs of being worn out, and the previous owner indicated that it ran fairly well. It was pulled before I got it so I haven't seen it run. Here are the Leak Down Test results for my project engine for comparison: These are all in the green band on the gauge. 1: 15% 2: 27% 3: 30% 4: 15% 5: 17% …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi all, I've been really cranking away at my Z (11/70) and put my stroker in as well as the new 5 speed. My issue is fitting the old clutch cylinder to the new clutch fork. On my old 4 speed transmission the fork had a hole in it for the threaded rod to go through and I could compress the clutch fully. However on the new one, this hole does not exist and I can't compress the rod fully to bolt the clutch to the new transmission. Really hoping for some suggestions on this and thanks in advance for the help. Chris
Last reply by CDL1542, -
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The last time I put an engine with the header already on I removed the steering rod in the engine bay, it was easier going in but a pain getting the rod bolted back up. I want to install the header beforehand. If I have someone push the motor towards the passenger's side on the way down would the header clear the steering rod okay? I'm trying to figure this out so it's as easy as possible without having too many people helping, they make me very nervous.
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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- 23 replies
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So I just installed a 5 speed transmission in my 78 280Z. Used to have a 4 speed. Before installation, nothing was wrong with the clutch, and I did not think I needed to replace it at the time. It was strong and never slipped. I did not remove the clutch and it seemed to be in good condition as far as I could tell on the flywheel. While test driving after the install, I notice that it seems like the clutch slips a bit at 3 & 4 gear shifts. The question would be is this a sure clutch going bad ? or could it be something along the lines of my clutch pedal/slave cylinder needs adjustment? I find it odd that the clutch would go bad at this exact time, but I do not hav…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
Rear Diff Issues 1 2
by Gary L- 1 follower
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This is on my 76 280Z 2+2 with about 85K miles. The rear diff is noisy, whining on acceleration and coasting, but there isn't any clunking. So I'm trying to decide whether I'll pull it and have it rebuilt or buy an already rebuilt one. According to the service manual it is a 3.54 ratio diff, but I don't know if it is open or a LSD. When I raise the rear end and spin one of the tires, the other doesn't move, I thought that if it was an open diff the opposite tire would rotate in the opposite direction and if it was a LSD they would rotate in the same direction. When I spin a rear tire, why doesn't the other one move? Could it be a LSD diff and the clutch plates or somethi…
Last reply by Gary L, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
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Have a 1976 280z with a automatic. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. The transmission fluid looks brown as you would expect. I have read where it might not be a good idea to have the fluid changed now, especially if it has never been changed. (which is what I suspect) Would like some opinions of some of you guys, especially if you have changed yours and what the results were afterwards. Thanks
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Well, I've put 500 miles on my overhaul and it's time for the first oil change. Since I've replaced the cam, I thought I'd get religious about adding ZDDP with each oil change. But surprise, surprise when I get to the auto parts store, there was no ZDDP to be had. Then I spied a bottle with a big "ZINC" on the label. When I got home and read the small print on the label, it said, "contains no Zinc or Phosphorous". Wait, the label does say "ZINC REPLACEMENT". On to the web for a MSDS where the only chemical it lists is "proprietary Polymer Ester". It appears clear and has a viscosity similar to glycerin. The label claims it "will provide complete wear protection for …
Last reply by Galaxybj, -
Anyone know of where I could get a head worked on in my general area of the world? I'm in southwest Michigan. I have an E-88 that's asking for bigger valves and more, you know the affliction.
Last reply by Z dreams, -
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Anyone opinion. Are these dimples depth markers related to head cut maximum? Or just related to the casting process.
Last reply by siteunseen,
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