Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
In our climate my engines sit for 4 months sometimes and first start up always makes me cringe thinking about all those surfaces with minimal oil protection. So I have put together a pre-oiler that will blast fresh oil into the oil circuit before start up. I was thinking the oil sender hole might be a good candidate, can anyone see a problem using it? I welded an air nipple to the top of he fire extinguisher and will have 90lbs pressure on when I squeeze the handle.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
-
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
A broken valve on my race car led to the need for a new motor. Fortunately Z Register member Andy had an F54 L28 block spare. My head that had a fair bit of work was repairable. Hope the photos are of interest.
Last reply by chris b, -
- 6 replies
- 4k views
What say you good Z'ers? When putting in a new clutch, what is your SOP on the flywheel resurfacing? Wet sand with Silcon carbide paper till deglazed? Always take in for a skim resurface to local rebuilder? Don't bother? Share your experience. Yes, I admit it, this is a silly question is based on being cheap, and in a hurry to get a clutch swap done in one go without a day or two "in the shop" waiting for a proper skim to get done....
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
I've got my block and am ready for assembly. Should I put the crank and pistons in before paint or after? I use Permatex assembly lube and I'm scared I'll get it onto the new paint. I was thinking install the crank and pistons, paint the block then put the expansion plugs in. I could put 1 coat on then assemble, shoot it again? Advise me, please! Cliff
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
- 2.5k views
I just bought a 1975 280z with a tired engine and 4 speed transmission, I want to swap a 5 speed, what is the easiest and best option for this transmission swap. This is my second z, had a 1976 z 25 years ago when I was just out of high school, got a good deal on it, but she is tired. As a second topic, I know I will need to rebuild this engine, any advice on what to use. It's not a daily driver, just fun on the weekends, don't need gas mileage, just fun, thanks. Troy
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 1.2k views
Hey Z car fans, I have a 1974 260Z vintage race car. In the rear it has an R200, stock half shafts, and stock stub axles, stock hubs, etc. A very odd issue is occurring since I put the rear end back together. When I tighten the lug nuts, the left rear axle does not want to spin at all! When the lugs are not tightened, it spins fine. The car is not drive-able when the lugs are torqued as it can barely move and makes a sound that sounds like it is coming from the hub of the left rear. I recently had the trans, drive shaft, diff, half shafts, and female parts that go over the stub axles and held on with the big nut out of the car and reassembled it. Right now I am …
Last reply by oranngetang, -
- 7 followers
- 84 replies
- 14.8k views
Hi All, First off I apologize if this topic has been covered elsewhere. I though I've researched the forum good enough, but I have not been able to find good discussion that would cover this topic extensively. If there is a threat out there that you know of, please point me to it. The problem My 280Z radiator is leaking slowly at the very top. It does not leak when sitting in the garage, but shortly after I fire it up is sips and splatters the coolant in the engine bay and on the hood. I'm looking at replacing it with an aluminum radiator. I plan to use the car form spring to fall, no winter driving. Mostly for driving to and form work but also for weekend SCCA aut…
Last reply by Marios280Z, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
Attached is the checklist I made for pulling the engine / transmission from my 1972 240Z. It takes you up to removing the engine mount and transmission crossmember bolts. I used the Removal Note column for bolt / nut size (might as well replace them as long as they are out), part bag names, idiosyncratic electrical connections, etc. Hope someone else finds it useful! Chris P.S. Apparently not allowed to upload Excel files, converted to .pdf. Sorry about including 2 blank pages at the end. Engine Removal Checklist.pdf
Last reply by Jetaway, -
- 3 followers
- 247 replies
- 38.2k views
I placed the order for a Rebello 3.0 so at some point a mostly complete motor will be brought home to swap into my running car. I have done motor swaps on other vehicles but I am not a professional mechanic, what could I be forgetting? Heres my current list in no particular order: Have gaskets on hand for valve cover, water pump, intake/exhaust Lots of engine brite for cleaning empty engine bay and transmission label wires and tubes fluids for new motor clutch? oil change for manual transmission repaint engine bay replace battery tray New fuel lines Beer, bbq and weekend with friends I have left off the plug wires, cap/rotor, belt and water hoses because they have alr…
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
- 1 follower
- 152 replies
- 22.7k views
Hi all, new guy here. I will take this opportunity to introduce myself and my car. About me My name is Mario, I live in Cedar Rapids, IA. I'm in my low 30s (for those who care), I like to work on cars, but I don't have a whole lot of detailed experience, however I'm very willing to learn. In early April igot the car (I wasn't necessarily looking for one, it found me). I've knew about 2X0Z for a while (my father in-law has two of 240Z sitting in his backyard rusting away ) but when this deal came I could not refuse. About the car 1978 280Z, 59,XXX miles when I got it. Original, survival (I have all the original paper work including signed contract from the deale…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 replies
- 894 views
I have 71Z with F54 block and triple Mikunis. I was thinking of putting a catch can on it. Any opinions? Thank you.
Last reply by timsz, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
I picked up an unleaded filler neck from the wrecking yard a couple of months ago to see if I could get it installed in my 1976 leaded filler neck, to make it easier to fill at the stations. I racked my brain for a day or two trying to figure out how to get the filler neck mounted inside the gigantic 1976 pipe, but couldn't come up with anything so I set the parts aside. Then the other day my simple-minded brain part took over and I came up with an easy way, using a drill, a tap, three holes, and some screws. The filler neck came from an older Dodge van, I believe, mainly because it was easy to access from under the fender. There's about 10 inches of pipe still att…
Last reply by Matthew Abate,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
