Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Looking for the lower half of the stock metal fan shroud used on 73 240z. I really only need the lower portion but if someone has the whole shroud to sell I'd be willing to buy the complete shroud (depending on price)
Last reply by z3beemer, -
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Vacuum theory question for you. I was looking at the atlanticz vacuum measurement page and gave their test a shot. At idle with 10 degrees btcc timing per the FSM I'm sitting at around 16.25 lb of vacuum. The only way to get it into the 17-22 range (in this case to 17) is to advance the timing to 15 degrees at idle while configured to run at 800 rpm at idle. My question is, is vacuum lbs something to pursue or is it just a measurement. Basically asking should I leave my idle timing at 15 degrees so I can have 17 lbs of vacuum or put it back to 10 because vacuum is just a measurement for engine health and not a tuneup configuration point in the FSM like timing…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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I recently found an old used Nabco 5/8" clutch master cylinder stowed away in a box in my garage. It had been stored there for many years...like over 20 years...I decided that I'd try and restore/rebuild it. The first problem I encountered is that the piston is "stuck" inside the cylinder bore. After reading the inter web and watching Youtube videos about how to solve this problem, I squirted AeroKroil into both sides of the cylinder bore and let it sit overnight. I then went to Harbor Freight and bought a grease gun with the intent of pumping grease into the cylinder bore behind the piston to force it out. However, as I was pumping grease into the cylinder, the grease b…
Last reply by ea6driver, -
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Hey guys, Decided to work on some of the smaller projects to make my car drive better. My gas pedal has 1/2 to 3/4 inch of slop in it before it actually starts opening the throttle butterfly valve. I have narrowed it down to two things. First is this circular joint nearest the firewall. It seems like whatever bushing used to be there has completely seperated and now the rod can just freefloat inside with tons of slop. In the photo I am referring to the big circular joint that the main rod rides in. Is there a replacement, and if so how do you do it? Second is where the rod attaches to a secondary rod (don't know their names) with a spring, was…
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
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So I've spent the last hour or so searching the forum trying to confirm which trans I have. Every time I think I've got if figured out I find another post that seems to contradicts what I thought I confirmed. I'm doing a conversion, auto to manual, on a 73. When I bought the car the 73 was complete and I got an engine and manual trans with it from a 72 Z. I have no idea of the vin # from the 72 so I have no idea of the mfg date. Looking on the manual trans I can't find any legible numbers on the casings other than casting numbers. Is there an easy way to tell from looking if it is a F4W71 A or B? The shifter lever looks like the pic below. Not sure if that helps b…
Last reply by z3beemer, -
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Can anyone tell me the proper orientation of the shifter for a manual transmission. I'm working on a 73Z, converting to a manual from an automatic. The manual trans is from a 72Z. Since I never saw the shift lever installed I need to be sure I'm installing it properly. All the fisch and fsm pics show a straight lever. Attached is a photo of how I think it should be installed. Can anyone verify ? Thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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where would you start to troubleshoot? engine rebuilt professionally not long ago. Runs great. gauge seems to work, just very low. sending gauge and oil pump is new. Of course that doesnt mean anything today i know. I am thinking change oil and go with a slightly heavier oil. Castol 10-30. Then check. I have another gauge, so i may swap that out just to check. Other than that i am not sure outside buying another pump and sender unit.
Last reply by Wally, -
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I'm in the process of removing the carbs and intake from my 72 engine and rebuilding and installing the round tops on my 73 240z restoration. (also so removing most all the emissions stuff). I noticed a cooling line that runs from the water outlet housing thru the intakes and back to the coolant return line. I noticed a valve on the exit of the cooling line. Thought maybe it was a check valve. After doing some research I discovered it's a thermostatic valve that shuts off coolant flow once it reaches 150 degrees. Unfortunately, it is broken. Any idea where I can get one or does anyone have one I can buy? I believe the Nissan part number is 14100-E8850 (not 100% sure…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Does anyone know where/if you can buy the reluctor wheel for a 280z distributor? We tried to take the one out of a broken distributor to fit a working on and ruined the teeth.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I've searched and looked at the threads I can find on mustache bar mounting bushings, but I haven't come across information about the bushings I think my car originally came with. Here is a pic of some I found online that are just like them. Does anyone know what the original Nissan part numbers are for this "solid" style?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Hello from across the pond. Someone in the UK forum asked the question: is the 280z auto trans the same as one in the 240z? Given the years and myriad differences between the models I can’t imagine that to be the case. I can well imagine internal differences like ratios etc but what of physical dimensions? The 280z wasn’t for the UK market and we are “mostly” a manual loving nation - so the question may be better answered here with greater experience. Why am I asking? Pure curiosity and for the learning / building my own knowledge bank! Anyone replaced a 240z auto ‘box with a 280 one and has any thoughts /advice / or even a write up on this? I can’t seem to fin…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Howdy, Working on a 240z that has a 280z motor, N42 block and N42 head. Car runs just kinda OK, but seems to not be right. Thought there was a burnt valve, but compression is good. All valve timing alignments with the cam looks good. Replaced the distributor cap and had the whole thing out. At TDC, I looked at the distributor drive, and it looks to align directly with the mounting bolts. I am getting older, but my memory is that the "line" should be off the left edge of the upper bolt with the angle. I have attached a picture. So, am I off or should I drop the oil pump and take it over one "tooth"? Any advice is appreciated. …
Last reply by Zed Head,
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