Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I've had no problem in the past setting the ignition timing on few different L6 motors, various 240z/280z style timing marks, etc. so I'm kind of stumped on what's happening. Quick overview: this motor was actually built by another owner, I bought it and had it crated over, dropped it in to replace my dead blow through set up. I was told the specs for it, complete bottom rebuild/head/cam setup to my liking. Crank pulley that came with the motor is a single groove, I can't tell if it's the euro version (the ring portion looks different), and doesn't seem to match any aftermarket pulleys either, so confused here as well. There are multiple grooves / timing marks on…
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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Last reply by Patcon, -
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Finally took it upon myself to rebuild my 1970 240z L24 engine. Nothing too wild. Went .20 over, installed new seats, valves, springs, bearings, ARP head studs, main studs, rod bolts and clutch bolts (yes. overkill, But I want to trust the engine). Finishing up gapping the rings, and installing them. Bearings and crank should be installed by the end of this weekend. The Datsoon marches on. More to come as it all comes along.
Last reply by caltanian, -
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I have a 240z which actually has a Champion 3 row radiator and the original plastic fan blade. When i am stuck in traffic the temperature in the temp gauge rises to 3/4. I have been recommended to get a Fan Shroud for this radiator as i am looking forward to install a Vintage Gen II Mini evaporator and Sanden 508 compressor. What kind of fan shroud shall i purchase for this radiator? Plastic or metal? Which Brand? any other recommendations? Been looking around and cant find any that could possibly fit. Anyone??
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Hi! I have an L24 with the original E88 head on it now. This head makes bad noises and needs work, but I have an N47 head that I took from an L24e engine. Can I mount the N47 head on my early L24 block with SU's and stock head gasket without any issues? Will this give a CR bump? Only concern I can come to think of is that the L24E had dishtop pistons, and I am pretty sure that the E88 L24 has flattop? Just trying to find the cheapest way to get rid of the bad noises as this is just a temporary engine Regards, Tomzern
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I need to build a motor for Memphis and don't want to do the stoker yet. I have a few blocks that could be over bored. I recall some mention in the past about chevy pistons that work with over bores? Anyone know of possible solutions? Cast hypereutectic pistons are fine for this one.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Anyone know of this mod and its success/risk? It is needed to do the 88mm VW piston upgrade.
Last reply by Careless, -
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Does anyone have any photos of the original look of the engine once painted? Anything would help. Trying to cover up this Ford Blue that's on the engine now. Mainly concerned about which brackets get painted, Freeze plugs, covers, overspray, etc. I may or may not try to recreate the factory overspray look, but I'm more interested in the other details. What's cad, what's not. etc. I don't really need an entire rundown, but a pictoral of someone who's done a true-to-stock engine refinishing project would be helpful. I've discussed some parts with Al from California Datsun, but then there are some items I know are original paint on the 01/70... but he had told me they were…
Last reply by Careless, -
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Hello everyone, Is it at all possible to remove the Timing cover without having to remove the head. Perhaps just the front two bolts on the head just need to be removed, along with the oil pan, and then just pop it off or something? I don't like the silver paint on the timing cover, as I know it yellows over time, so I want to have it vapour blasted to bring it back to the OE look. I'm just worried that it will pull the front of the graphite head gasket down and cause it to split or leak or something worse. If it's a huge deal, I'll leave it, but I seriously hate this silver paint on everything. Looking for advice on removal if there are any tips!
Last reply by Careless, -
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Piston Mfgr: Silvolite L4-119 Application: Isuzu 82-85 G200Z (Chev S15 LR-1) Flat Piston 88mm (87+1mm over) 22mm Wrist Pin 36.52mm Compression height Will work nicely (great squish) with stock L28 rod, LD28 crank, and stock Felpro HG. Gives 3.03 litre @ 9.75CR
Last reply by Patcon, -
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My 73 240Z has a funky looking water line from the rear intake to the right side of the block. I figured the short hose would eventually blow, and it did tonight. And I'm sure the metal tube that wraps around the back of the motor isn't the original style. I think mine is copper, and that can't be right. I'd like to replace all hoses and tubing with the correct 73 pieces. It looks like thezstore's part# 16-8026 (Manifold Heater Hose, Rear Intake Manifold to Rear Tube, 73 240Z) is not available. Does anyone else sell this tube? Or a complete kit to replace everything? Edit: Or remove the intake cooling altogether since it's probably useless in my area. Th…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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I have a pretty good coolant leak from the freeze plug closest to the oil dipstick. This will be the first time I've tackled a freeze plug so I have a couple of quick questions. First, I'm planning on draining the rad and then the block, but I've heard its difficult to remove the engine coolant drain plug. To access the plug I'm going to have to remove the passnager side heater lines and pipe that are in the way as well. Do I have to drain the block via the engine drain plug or would it be easier to just be ready to catch the fluid as I remove the heater lines and the freeze plug itself? Second, looking at the system it looks to me that the high level of the rad i…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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