Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Putting my engine back together after an overhaul and finally turned my attention to the oil pan. I found lots of RTV on the pan and after cleaning it became very clear that someone over torqued the bolts warping the pan. Tom Monroe says to place the pan face down on a flat surface and to use a hammer and a large punch to flatten the re-enforcing beads. This being an early pan, it has no doubler plates, but rather a raised boss about 8mm wide and enlarging to a circle around the bolt holes. Most is not all of the distortion is dimpling around the bolt holes. Does anyone have a better technique for removing the dimples? The only reasonable flat, hard surface I have …
Last reply by Careless, -
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Picked up a Koyo aluminum radiator for my S30. Got down to installation and ran into a problem - the fan makes contact with the passenger side of the radiator (the cooling tank portion of the rad - see attached picture). After unleashing a few f-bombs, got down to trying to figure this out. Upon closer inspection it looks like the PO had installed a 8 fin fan from a 260z and it looks like the clearance between the fan and radiator are impacted by this (I hope - it appears the 260z fan extends forward further than the stock 240z fan). I've gone ahead and ordered a new fan in hopes that this solves my problem however, unless I'm missing something it looks like Koyo has made…
Last reply by tehmbrick, -
- 22 replies
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Car has about 180-200 miles on it after an engine swap, took it out tonight for a spin, at a stop light while accelerating I heard the belt start to squeal. I figured, "just need to tighten it" but it kept squealing and another noise which I assumed was the belt rubbing on something happened because I started to smell burnt rubber. This went on for about 20-30 seconds or so then stopped. Next light, squeal when launching plus what seems like potential grinding which dies out at about 15 mph, no squeal when accelerating at speed. Brought it home, won't squeal just revving in the driveway but it looks like the belt is slightly misalligned to the rear at the alternator. …
Last reply by gogriz91, -
- 17 replies
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Alright so since the last I posted up here, I blew the L26, road tripped 5 hours to pick up an L28 load it into the lidless trunk of an oldsmobile and drive it back. Then I stripped it down did several new gaskets, and painted it. Threw it in the Z with DGVs and after a month of fighting with them, bought a rebuilt set of round tops, ups broke those , so after a huge debacle with them repaired them and installed them. It ran awesome but kept dying randomly, seemingly because of a gas tank issue. Dropped it had it hot tanked again, and sealed it with red kote. I proceeded to put about 400 miles of awesome daily fun on the odometer in a space of about 2 and half weeks . Ble…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
early oil pan 1 2
by 240dkw- 15 replies
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I have been spending the last week or so under the car scraping the rest of the undercoating off and have noticed a couple of things. First it looks like the car has a early reinforced oil pan, the engine is the original one and a number of L24-9873. I do not have any of the history of the car so I guess that the oil pan was replaced with this early one at some time. Because of how much later it is than the dates in this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=278322&postcount=28 As well, because this car is a mid 1970 Canadian car and does not have the extra vent hose to the gas tanks here is a photo of the support tab that would have been for the…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I'm having trouble getting my timing marks lined up. Recent rebuild of my 71 240, original distributor, I got #1 cylinder up on TDC, made a mark on the crank pulley at the 0 mark on the timing indicator on the engine. When I run it and check it with the timing light I have to remove the hold down bolt on the distributor to get the timing to line up at 5 degrees BTDC. The indication is that it is WAY retarded (off the scale) Here's my question: Since the indication is so far off could the distributor/oil pump shaft be off a tooth? If so how do I fix it? I know the shaft comes out the bottom of the timing chain cover, can I drop the oil pump, drop the shaft, turn it a t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
All of the lobes on my cam are perfect and smooth except for the exhaust lobe on the #5 cylinder. I have had this engine for about 5,000 miles now and I don't think this has gotten any worse but not completely sure. When I drag the edge of a razor blade over the lobe I can feel the roughness but still not sure if it is gouged into the cam or transfer from the rocker on top of the lobe. What do you guys think? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I'm on about mile # 30,000 of my old 1978 stock 280Z engine and have never used a zinc additive or special oil on this engine. Just common oils, like Quaker State and Pennzoil 10-40W. I think that my engine has about 150,000 miles on it. No problems or signs of excessive wear. If you have the time, please post some details on how many miles are on your engine, how many miles you've driven it since oils changed, and if you've had any cam shaft wear. Just trying to collect more real data on the zinc issue. Maybe I should be running Rotella.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I've got a new timing light with the advance feature. From what I've read I'm thinking that if I dial in the advance such as 10 degrees, the pulley mark should line up on 0. Is that right? With the advance feature you don't use the 5 degree increments, just the 0 mark. Right??? Thanks for any replies, Cliff
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 19 replies
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Almost everything is going good on my first 12 miles! Other than small issues my total rebuild of everything and anything mechanical is going great! When I decelerate in third gear it pops into neutral, I can hold it in 3rd with slight pressure, Suggestions? Thanks in advance
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
- 15 replies
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Hi! I have a nasty vibration in my 1970 240z when driving in highway speeds. While going over everything in the drivetrain I noticed some play in the transmission end of the driveshaft. Is this normal or should there be no play at all? Here's a video I shot today: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLmEMtkO3M8 My driveshaft has been spliced and I am also wondering if it might be too short. Does it look like it should be further into the transmission when looking at the video? Thanks, Tomzern
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 1 reply
- 799 views
Do the numbers on the very top's flat spot mean anything like a VIN number? The higher the number, the newer the transmission? I'm taking two to my transmission friend for him to look inside and tell me which one to use so it's more of a curiosity thing to me. The highest number The other one 4spd far left, highest 5spd then lower number 5spd far right Thanks for any replies, Cliff
Last reply by Zed Head,
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