Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Some pics of cleaning up a rocker. Here is what a "good" used rocker looks like. It has had a lot of quality time with the cam and polished to shine with smooth undulations in the surface. Not much surface for holding oil when so shiny like chrome. Here are the 3 best rockers out of a used set of 12. I refreshed the worst of the 3 by using a flat slab of marble and sand paper. I measured variance to be 0.001" across the surface's peak. The front (engine side) is where the drop off is. It was interesting that simply placing the rocker on the flat surface gave the results; so it seems the machining surfaces are parallel (see below) and registered off the bott…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Ok, I'll keep this short: I've inadvertently (and frustratingly...) ended up with a 78 with the stock transmission coupled with a 3.90. I was supposed to have the 82-83 transmission but that didn't happen. Anyway, I'll live with it for awhile (maybe do some rock crawlin') but I want to get the speedometer right. Will the white, 19 tooth pinion work? I've always been told that you pair the pinion with the differential and that the transmission doesn't matter. Just wanted to verify. thanks :-)
Last reply by Adam78, -
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Almost all my wipes are identical (thank you machine shop) a couple are a little worse but not much. Can I get by with this? I had Delta do the rockers and had Isky re-grind my cam for a stage II and they sent .175 lash pads, along with new springs and retainers.
Last reply by SledZ, -
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There is an oval-shaped cam-inspection plate on the front of the head. I have two of them; one cheapo plating, and the other painted to match the block. Can anyone tell what finish is correct for a '71 240Z. Thanks
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Finally got a chance to tear down my Series I L24 with 186K miles for excessive oil consumption (300-400 miles/quart). All in all things looked remarkably good. Crank and rod bearing show wear in the expected places but the crank surfaces are within a 0.001" with not taper or feel-able grooving. Cylinder walls have little to no taper and are round to size within 0.001". Cylinders 1,2,5, and 6 are clean with some crosshatching visible. Cylinders 3 and 4 are smooth but show the artifacts in the attached photos. Since it is hard to get a finger nail or ball point pen at right angles to the surface, I felt the surface with a clay modeler's tool. Most of the a…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I wrestled with the oil rings for about 20 minutes and came to the conclusion I'm not doing something right or something has to be modified as I can't even get one of the two oil rings to fit correctly with this spacer in place. It wont stay in place, overlaps itself at the slightest move and the rings won't fit into the piston groove correctly. I can't figure it out and I'm a handy dude! Can't find anything on the interweb other than throw them away and buy some other brands. Anyone have any ideas or am I really missing something obvious? It should not be that difficult....
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Hi all, Looking for guidance regarding part selection and source for water pump and fan clutch on a '73 S30. Nissan dealer quoting $90 for the water pump and indicates a new pully is recommended (as a result of a slight part design change); $67 for the pully. ($47 for the water pump on Motorsport Auto) Nissan dealer telling me that I can't buy the fan clutch alone, so fan clutch with fan is $271.15 (compared to $80 on Motosport Auto) I suspect this is an OEM vs. aftermarket question. Anyone here experienced with replacing these parts and have advice? Newbie post. Did search the forums, apologies for anything I've missed. Thanks, -TD
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Took my 240z for a spin yesterday and got into heavy traffic. RPM mantained at 1,100 in light traffic but once i started going bumper to bumper, the rpm started to lower to 800 rpm and the raised back to 1100. The car carries Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam and 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt reason why it has a rough idle. Anyway,i would like to mention that i did cancel the EGR system and that the fast idle Actuator was removed as the diaphgram is broken: Could there be some air escape somewhere on the engine …
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
A few years ago I bought an extra L28 engine that had just been completely rebuilt by Jasper, but never fired. The engine sat in storage with my cars for the last four years and I've finally decided to do something with it. The block is an F54, with dished pistons, and the head that came on it is a P79. This combination provides a very low compression engine. The engine will eventually be transplanted into my 72 240Z. My goals are to increase performance over my tired stock L24, be able to run on premium fuel without detonation and to have the engine run equally well (relatively speaking) with my stock SU's or 40mm tripple Webers. I'm not touching the bottom end of the mo…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I need the plate to finish installing my dizzy. Clean, dirty, I don't care. Thanks!
Last reply by CEgg11, -
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Hey guys (and gals), I'm the new proud owner of a 1977 280z. I don't know a ton about cars, but I'm mechanically handy and I have downloaded and read through the FSM and the FIB for the car. When I first got the car, it had been sitting for a year and wouldn't run at all. After replacing the fuel pump, it starts and runs, but very very rich. It fouls all 6 spark plugs in short order and idles very rough, occasionally dying. I first suspected the CSV, so I disconnected it with no success, though the engine still started fine so I have left it disconncted. Then I pulled the CSV to see if it was leaking fuel, but it was fine as well. Next I checked the water temperature sens…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi everyone, drowning in various NOS engine back breather, heater, and coolant hoses here that seem to have the colour from the cotton weave faded to a dull black or grey colour. I have now seen them in both finishes, and was wondering what is more "correct" as per Datsun. Is it January, 1970 "period correct" to dye these hoses so that they become black again, whilst repainting any markings or insignias back onto the hoses? I've done the hose dying countless times and it always comes out amazing. so all I'm wondering is if it's "OE" to bring it back to black, or did they come "grey-ish" from factory. Thanks. Raff
Last reply by Bonzi Lon,
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