Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Have a 71 with a 4bbl carb intake on it. brake booster vacuum line is not plugged in so no power brakes. Have 6 open holes on intake but can't find a good vacuum port. No balance tube on intake but holes are there and open on both sides. Car runs good but the lack of vacuum is puzzling. Other than switching to a factory SU setup where can I pull vacuum from?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hello all, I'm looking for info if anyone has ever run an P90 head on a dished piston L28 block (Yes, a L28et without the turbo). If you care for the details you can read the rambling story below. Maybe a bit of a silly question, but some of you may have some quality input. I've stumbled across a L28et engine in my area for a great deal. I have been searching for a while, and i've had two ideas in my head which both involve said engine. Either A, do the turbo engine swap, or B, get some flattop pistons, shave and shim the head and run a higher compression N/A engine. Both have their complications and their costs but for now I am looking on a temporary solution. …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I've looked around a lot and there isn't much to choose from. I can go forged for $1500~, go Chinese for $400-500, or go through the Z store for $101 (ea). I want some quality rods (all new or in really good shape) but there isn't anything reasonable for my budget ($700 is where I want to top out at). I'm surprised Eagle doesn't make rods for the L24. I love their rods. I would go though the Z store but there isn't any actual information about the product itself. It's just listed as a connecting rod for the L24. So I'm assuming they are stock rods. I don't plan on building the engine for high horsepower, but if I'm tearing into the block, why not spend a little bit for ro…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I'm going to put a bar across my garage ceiling joist for a hoist to pull a motor and transmission and would like to know a roundabout weight of the engine with transmission attached. Thanks, Cliff
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hey mates So to fix my shifter vibration I pulled the shifter out to do the brass bushing replacement. To my amazement it was already done, but since I wasted all the time walking to the store I figured it'd do it again. Pulled the old brass bushings out and squeezed the new ones in. After some filing and help from a mallet everything was back in to place. Before I buttoned everything up I checked up on my driveshaft. I replaced the drive shaft back in 2009 with a new one from MSA - the one with greaseable ujoints. Question wise, what is acceptable for veritcal - up and down - movement of the driveshaft. There is a bit of play up and down. Otherwise everything seems wel…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I need the following parts for my 240z but with Premium high quality standards: Urethane Bushing kit Steering Rack boots Crankcase gasket or ENgine overhaul gasket kit Rear Main seal / crankshaft Front and Rear transmission Seal Front cover gasket engine Rear differential cover seal Rear differential Seal Should i purchase these seals and bushings in Black Dragon or should i really invest on high end part supplier? if so which one carries all these parts.
Last reply by IncredibleMrZ, -
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So i'm ditching the fuel injection system for a triple carb setup when my motor gets back from Rebello. Its a 75 280Z. What all can I get rid of in the engine bay? I'm trying to keep as nice and clean as possible. Could I completely remove the drivers side harness? It seems to be mainly for the fuel injectors. -Matt
Last reply by HaZmatt, -
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So I have set about the process of building the engine in my 1970 240z. This is my project car, no intention to ever sell the car, and want to have a fun, reliable build for weekend mountain road runs, as well as docile enough to be driven around town. The local engine builder and I have talked, and I will be getting the block work and head work done there. I so far have been building up a parts list, and so far have a new high volume oil pump, Cometic MLS headgasket, full gasket kit for the engine, timing kit, and arp head studs. Im bounding around the stage stage two cam from MSA, or isky (or are they the same anyway?), using the stock springs if they are still any go…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I'm thinking about digging into my engine, but I will be moving soon and don't want to get into a sticky situation. Can anyone chime in on the time it takes to do the jobs listed below? I know times vary significantly between people and engine, but any estimates are appreciated. Engine is out of car on a stand with exhaust and intake manifolds removed. I want to know how long it may take to 1. remove the head and check it and the pistons/rings 2. re-ring the pistons 3. rebuild the head 4. refresh timing components 5. full rebuild. Thank you!
Last reply by gogriz91, -
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Sorry if this has been covered already but I didn't have much luck with a search. I seem to remember posts elsewhere which stated the mainshaft nuts were NLA from Nissan. Is this true, and if so, is there another source for them? If not, can anyone provide a Nissasn p/n? My particular app will be for a F4W71B, I believe it threads the opposite of the later model trans, but in which direction is unknown.
Last reply by emoze, -
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So after many long years I have upgraded to a L28ET in my 76 running MS3PRO. I am now in need of a clutch for my beast as stock will not hold up to the power. I have looked at after market clutchs and not really impressed with costs. What I did notice is the parts from the L@* are interchangeable with many other nissan engines. The KA, VG30, Z24, L20, SD22, SD25 all seem to have the same basics about them when it comes to the clutch with the size of the surface being different. From what I have read the D21 4x4 truck clutch can hold some HP also.. Well good news is I found a clutch set up that runs under 400 with 18lbs flywheel. setup is 35lbs total. This is a cu…
Last reply by 280~Master, -
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I need to drain both my differential and my 4 speed transmission. It is filled with non synthetic. I am reading all about redline and or royal purple however they are both synthetic. My understanding is you cant put synthetic oil in if it did not contain synthetic before. IS this true- what do you use if not the synthetic and or how do you convert to use the synthetic. Any help is greatly appreciated
Last reply by beermanpete,
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