Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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This morning i started the engine of my 240z and pull the choke to 2,500 RPM in order to warm it up for 3 minutes. Once warmed up i released it and check on the engine for any leaks. I discovered a very small leak on one of the ends of the fuel filter. Just a small leak and the filter is full. Could this be normal and i am in danger of causing a fire in the engine? Please advise how to solve this issue, i tried tightnening the screws that hold the hoses but it does not move any further. Thanks,
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Seems like I'm posting issues more then usual. I think my car's on a breaking streak after begin driven more in the last few months then she has in years. I swapped in my rebuilt N47 head onto my L24 to help my compression issues and after driving it about 3 months I've noticed after my last oil change a few weeks back that the center of the head is starting to seep antifreeze. The head was checked and seemed perfectly straight. The block as well, however the motor could have been overheated several time before, and had a blown head gasket when I got it early 2014 (which is why the E31 head isn't on it) so there is no telling. I had no seeping issues on the worn ou…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I've researched alot. And it seems you can swap the buttons on the 720 diff to accept a bolt in stub axle. What do u think I'd the best approach. Should I just let the stub axles from my z float inside the diff. As a few have done that. Should I get the stubs machined to accept the snap ring. Should I swap the buttons. I don't have the proper tools to check backlash and pre load if I disassemble the diff. Thanks.
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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Hey mates I've owned m Z since 2008, drive it pretty much everywhere - right now its my only car. Recently - for about three months or so - second gear is a pain to shift into when the car is warm. It doesn't grind but it takes some effort to actually get the transmission to shift into said gear. It only does this in second. The other issue it's begun recently is if I sit at a light with the clutch in - as say I'm trying to make a right - the clutch won't hold as in it will begin to engage into gear. I have to basically force it out of first - literally - redepress the clutch and then shift back into said gear. Hydraulics are newish - replaced them in 2011 (I keep rath…
Last reply by Pomorza, -
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trying to figure out which speedo pinion i need to acquire for a 71B trans with a 9 tooth shaft gear i have a 3.9 axle, 14" (5-blade star) wheels and currently a white 19 tooth pinion - speedo error "too fast" is there a chart anywhere showing the pinion (cable) output rpm/1000 for the various tooth options with that 9-tooth drive gear? these pinion gears are common to a range of cars - 240z, 260z, 280zx (1970-1983). 510 (1968-1973). 200SX (from 07/81-07/83) pinions range from 16 Teeth Gear: 3.36 axle Ratio 17 Teeth Gear: 3.54 Ratio 18 Teeth Gear: 3.70 Ratio 19 Teeth Gear: 3.90 Ratio various cars had 13", 14" and 15" wheels - did all datsuns of the era…
Last reply by emoze, -
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I don't remember if I've actually started a thread on here before but I need some help in identifying a couple of transmissions. First up, is a type-B 5-speed. I was told by the PO, who was told by someone else that it has Porsche-type (servo) syncros (maybe they meant just 5th gear?). Any way to find out what kind of trans this is short of opening it up? I thought it was a plain-jane 280Z 5-speed since it has the two ears under the shifter and the speed gear bolt is at 12 o'clock, but it "looks" to have the later shifter ears and is missing the top access cover that Marc describes at the bottom of his page: gearing2 Notice the number underneath the shifter ears. …
Last reply by emoze, -
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I am in the process of purchasing a 280z, and my big question is are they fuel injected? I know this May sound like a beginner question but I am looking to drive this car as a well maintained daily driver. If someone can please help I'd love to know.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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Getting ready to pull the mustache bar possibly tomorrow to do the bushings. Is there anything I need to know before doing this? Do I need to support the diff in any special way? Or is it pretty much as easy as just pulling the two bolts on the diff, and the two on the body? Also planning on drilling the bushings and cutting the remainder of the rubber out of the bar. Is there any easier/more time efficient way to do it? Or is it about as simple as it sounds?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
Oh what fun it is to tear down old rusty u-joints! What a PITA! Can;t even get the clips off without using the torch. I think I;d rather remove spindle pins. Merry Christmas, John
Last reply by Z dreams, -
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Decided to make a new post to gain some exposure. I was putting the case back on the transmission and I broke that damn little oil gutter off the adapter plate. Can I proceed without that? Thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Long story short. Pulled an 82zx transmission with only 160k. Nothing leaking no signs of damage when I split the case. Since the oe. Bearings are japan and in good shape they're staying. However I'm replacing the seals. I was able to find an oe replacement for the rear from altrom import parts but cannot find an oe or equivalent for the front. All I can find is made in Mexico or China junk. Hindsight is 20/20 and experience tells me to use oem main seals or oe equivalent quality. Two questions: does anyone have access to part numbers for the front seal? Anyone know the oem part numbers for bearings or an oe equivalent like koyo? If I can't source oe bearings the o…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Hi everyone I was doing some Christmas cleaning and found an E31 head with both intake and exhaust manifolds attached. I am attaching a pic. Is the 48 manifold better than the 88? Does anyone want the E31? Curtis
Last reply by CEgg11,
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