Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Finally in the process of swapping a Far 311 Race Cam with an original Stock 240z camshaft. I have been trying to find the specification but have not had any luck yet. Is it the same as BRE 311 Camshaft? Anyone?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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It's been a long time since I've run an L6 engine, but I used to race L24's many, many years ago. Right now the car pulls really hard to 6,500. What is the safe engine Redline on an L28 with a stock bottom end? I've have a freshly rebuilt L28 engine with a 280 duration .460 lift cam. New Nissan factory valve springs ( 13203-F2000 Outers and matching Nissan inners ), Doug Thorley headers, 2.5" custom exhaust. Factory balance job. Stock rods. Stock Flat tops. I will be autocrossing this car a bit next year and maybe running some Track days. I used to run my L24's to 7,000... but on the L28, I'm thinking of using a 6,500 RPM max shift point with Rev Limiter ( Crane Hi-6…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I'm looking to install a Borg-Warner T5 in my '73. From the different comments I've read, the rear transmission cross-member for the change seems to cause a lot of heartburn due to differences in mounting point locations on the two transmissions. This transmission came from an '83. In '83 both the Nissan 5 speed and the Borg-Warner T5 were options. That being the case, were there different rear cross-members for the Nissan 5 speed and the T5? If so, why won't the T5 cross-member work? Or, were the body mounting points in different locations?
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I've owned my '78 (a Black Pearl) since '81. It hasn't been driven since about '90. Over the past few months I've been working on getting the old girl running, (which it does - sort of). It has 184K on it & the engine has never been apart. Original down to the injectors, timing gear/chain, etc.. While replacing manifold gaskets I noticed a lot of oily goo on the block coming from under the edge of the head at the #4 cyl. Today, while replacing valve stem seals, I found out where it was coming from. The head bolt between #4 intake & #5 exhaust is broken & obviously had been for a long time. I planned on rebuilding the head anyway, & the machine shop can tak…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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As mentioned before when i bought my car my EGR system looked like this: some of its components were not working and consequently i decide to remove the following parts from my engine: - Servo diaphgram -Assembly AB Valve My mechanic tested the vacuum for the control valve and it is not working also, so he decided to block all the remaining parts and has left it the following way: I have several queries regarding this modification: 1) Is the deletion of the system done correctly? Could i be having some vacuum leak as some of the blocking is not done as it should? 2) Any additional parts i need to buy in order to install an AC system to this car?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
- 4 replies
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Hello everyone, I'm still trying to figure out why I have a lack of power from idle(to 1400rpm or so). After digging into the manual a little further, i've found that my automatic drops the timing down to 0 when temperature is higher, and in cold climates it bumps it up to 10 degrees (Where idle on a manual car is). It says it does this for emmisions. I'm looking to bypass the 0 degree set of points, and only use the "advanced" set. If I bridge the temperature switch, will this not make the car "feel" like it is below 0c degrees (32f) in all conditions? My electrical wiring diagram knowledge is apparently not that great.
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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I have an F54 87mm overbore block with some new 87mm dished pistons. I know that 1mm is .040" but the ring set that came with all this is .030" oversize. Is that what I need or should I get .040" oversize rings? Thanks for any help, Cliff
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello all, Spent the evening helping a buddy try to get his 72 240Z running better. The front carb was messed up and pumping fuel into the carb. We finally got the level set in it pretty good They carbs were recently rebuilt by a commercial shop that said they knew what they were doing. Not really sure about that. I know the f and r carbs have subtle differences and the rebuild kits do also. Ie the float needle and seat valve has different length stems coming out if them. One question I have- are the front and rear floats different? I am thinking the metal tab that turns off the fuel might have a different curvature to compensate for the needle difference. We only had…
Last reply by JR Ohio, -
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It hasn't been a very good week and the Z doesn't want to run right. I have actually been able to find time to work on it, which usually is a problem. But after hours of troubleshooting and working on the car I seem no closer to an answer.It's one of those troubleshooting nightmares that has caused me to walk away before I do something stupid----like give up Z-ing. Symptoms are erratic and only sometimes can I duplicate. I am scratching my head and loosing heart and motivation. I love my Z, but it hasn't been fun lately just working on it while we have had the best weather all year. I will try and describe my issues-though it will sound vague; I have been around the world…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I noticed that my clutch was starting to slip awhile back and it's been getting worse, well tonight on my way to work as I was merging onto the interstate, I shift into third at about 4k and it stayed right at 4k, then bounced up to about 4700, the car barely accelerating, let off the gas and the clutch grabs and it was a pita the rest of the way into work, but I was gentle and got to work and then back home again. This is wierd because I never really felt like it released all the way either now this. Also lately there has a ton of rattle going up hills under loads, like when you in the wrong gear for the speed your going. So I really don't if its the clutch itself, the p…
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
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Where can i purchase the original Camshaft for my 1972 Datsun 240z? My car has been upgraded with the following specifications: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt with race jets / needle. I am having stalling problems and really want to go back to stock!! What parts will i need to purchase in total besides of the camshaft based on the above upgrades? Who sells them? I really prefer high quality parts and Genuine Nissan if available.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hello, Trying to install a stock cooling fan to replace the flex lite fan that was in the car when I bought it. Once I got the stock fan installed I noticed it is rubbing the A/C portion (3rd row) of the crankshaft pulley. It looks like this third row is actually an add on to the 2 row pulley that is on there. The manual says to use a puller. Just curious if it is the same process with an "add on" pulley? I'll try and post a picture later when I'm on my computer.
Last reply by HuD 91gt,
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