Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hey everyone, I'm looking for (and having trouble finding) side bearing shims for my renovated R200 LSD. I have new bearings, etc., but the backlash is WAY too tight so the shop needs to move the carrier over some. It seems that all the places they contact don't have the ones we need and it's been a month with the car in their shop. Their next best option is to make some, but that will get spendy. It's a guess, but the shop is estimating we need a .80 and a .96 shim. I've tried MSA (of course), and a few Z shops in CA, Nissan doesn't make them anymore... Any ideas?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Finally got around to compression testing my engine. Did the compression test manually (engine is out of car on stand). Squirted some gear oil in the spark plugs holes a few days ago. Here are the results: 1 - 125 > 90 2 - 132 > 90 3 - 10 > 30 > 125 (squirted oil in) 4 - 67 > 65 > 150 (squirted oil in) 5 - 215 6 - 210 The > sign just means I redid the test on that cylinder. Anyways, it doesn't look good. My friend says that the improvement after adding oil means it's likely the rings, pistons, or block and not the valves or head that has an issue. Makes sense to me. Car had sat 8 years when I got her, engine has been out another 3 years since then. I …
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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This forum has been very helpful to me in the past, and any advice with this situation would be appreciated. Here’s what I have. ’72 240Z, stock L28, 3 screw round top carbs. I finished rebuilding the carbs yesterday. After getting everything reinstalled, I turned on the ignition to check for leaks and they were there. Leaks from the banjo fuel fitting supply to the bowl and also some leaks around the float bowl top gasket. I tightened the 4 bowl top screws and the banjo fitting bolt, but they seem to still ooze fuel. Current plan – Take it back apart and put some Permatex non-hardening sealant & dressing (#85409) on the parts and reassemble. I’m pret…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Hello all, 1971 240z automatic. Stock. If you guys have been following my threads on this vehicle, I purchased it about 6 months ago in the great US of A, and imported it into Canada. I've spent the last 6 months completely refreshing the front end, and some of the back as well as replacing some of the maintenance items for the engine. This includes points, cap, rotor, plug wires, and adjusting the carbs as per Ztherapy. After this work, the vehicle was finally legally registered yesterday and i've logged about 150km or so since. Yesterday the car ran quite well. This morning was a different story. After sitting for a minute or two in the underground letting the …
Last reply by djwarner, -
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Looks like it's time to replace my clutch - it was a bit long in the tooth when I got the car, so I figured this would need done at some point, and I've smoked it a couple times doing childish stunts involving high rpms and bad smokey smells... It's currently functional, but engages at the tippety-top of the pedal throw and will slip at peak torque if I drive like a donkey. I'm hoping to limp along until I gather parts and do a swap on a weekend afternoon. I've read a few threads which give me the naive impression that it's not that tough a job, and I may even invest in a tranny adaptor for my floor jack to compensate for my shortcomings in the bicep department. My long…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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After pulling out my transmission and taking the case off I figured out why it kept popping out of 2nd, 4th and reverse. The problem is that the shifter would hit the back of the "socket" and not allow it to fully engage and pop out of gear. You can see where the mark is on the shifter where it hits and the distance the gear is from fully engaging over the synchro, (a long ways off). I took apart another transmission as a test and used two shifters and it did it to both of them so I would think this could happen to a lot of them and hopefully fix them without taking them out of the car and to a tranny shop for nothing. I thought I would be able to adjust the shift "t…
Last reply by Werup, -
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While looking for vacuum leaks which could be the main cause of the rough idling and stalling of my 240z i have decided to replace all of the fuel line and braided hoses in the engine compartment. I would like to buy high quality hoses. Does Black Dragon sell them? They do provide a good service. But i am looking for long lasting hoses. Which are the ones that are preformed and would need to be sourced overseas?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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The fuel pump in my car is faulty it is just reaching 0.8 psi and 1.5 p.si at low rpm. I am planning on replacing it. This car has a L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam which makes this motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors. This block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear and makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor. In view of the above i need a powerful and silent Electric Fuel Pump. I read the electric fuel pumps for Mazda RX7 are the ones recommended? Any other opinions?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Last few days I've been driving my 72' 240, and noticed a couple strange events. Observation #1) Normal oil pressure at speed, (2/3 to 3/4 on gage), but while sitting at a stop light, gage registers "zero" oil pressure. I blip the throttle up to maybe 15 RPM, and pressure bounces up to 1/3 or higher and stays there... No additional noise from valve train or anything else to indicate a loss or reduced lubrication. Oil level is fine and oil is clean. I searched the threads, and yes, I have a gold color sender. Thing is, it's never done this before... Observation #2) Everything's good, then temperature bumps-up from center of the gage to almost 3/4! This is i…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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So after several months of running the alumaseal through the cooling system of my 77 280 I still have a coolant leak between the block and head. I have contemplated re torquing the head bolts but am a little nervous. The last time I had the head off was in 1997 or there abouts. So its been awhile. Has anyone attempted this and what were the results? I was thinking of just breaking them loose (just barely) and then re torquing, in proper sequence of course. Im nervous because I believe I could take a chance of cracking the head if my leak is caused from a warped head. Ideas, experiences, and suggestions are appreciated.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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I dropped my 3 speed automatic transmission from my 73 240z, replaced the flexplate and put it all back together. Now there are two fluid lines the feed into the transmission, and these lines connect to the transmission via a bizare bolt with a hole drilled in them. It appears that all I would need to do is bolt the bolt back into the transmission, although I do not understand how fluid runs through the system. So my question is, when reconnecting the transmission to the rest of the fairlady, do I just screw these in like any other bolt, or must something special be done. Thank you for reading.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hi guys, I have a 72 240 with a 2.9 stroker. F54 flat top block and N42 head. Dual Z Therapy SU's with SM needles, nismo motorsport 6-2-1 header, 2.5 inch exhaust all the way, port matched intake and exhaust. its got a stock l28 cam in it however, and it falls on its face around 5500rpm, and has a nasty flat spot right around peak advance (3000rpm) that might have something to do with my static compression ratio from what I have read. I have also read that with my compression (should be over somewhere just over 10:1) i should be running a cam with somewhere in the neighborhood of 270-290 duration on this build. is this about right for this engine? and will i need better v…
Last reply by AlexS13,
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