Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 9 replies
- 1.5k views
I had a leak on my Manifold Heater Hose, (Rear Intake Manifold to Rear Tube, on a 1972 240Z), and replaced it with a 1/2" generic line. It was quite a struggle getting things back together, the hard line that runds behind the engine neer the fire wall has a bracket that bolds on with the rearmost exhaust manifold stud. It looks like the braket that holds the hard tubing should be adjustable but I couldn't get it to move, its either welded to the tube or coroded so badly its stuck. The two hard tubes I'm connecting are offset by 1/4 of an inche, so the rubber tubehas a bit of a bend in it that's putting more strain on the tubing than I like. My question is; is that brake…
Last reply by Pop's Z, -
-
- 3 replies
- 1k views
Hello all. I need help from you Datsun CSI folks trying to identify the 5spd transmission I bought for my ’72 240Z. Here’s the scoop It has one mounting ear on the tail shaft. Has the long shifter mount. Those being said, it would appear to be a close ratio 81-83 5 speed. This is where the mystery begins. This tranny has the filler plug on the driver side of it. So maybe it is from an 810/Maxima. Further, the spacer between the front half/bell housing side and the tail shaft is made of aluminum not steel. Also,it has both a neutral switch and a back-up switch. My buddy and I have done the test turning the input shaft 20 times and counting the revolutions of…
Last reply by JR Ohio, -
- 2 replies
- 865 views
When changing the filter and gasket on my AT a while back, I found a piece of metal in the bottom of the pan where one would expect to find a magnet. But this one showed no magnetism to speak of. Unfortunately, the new gasket did not fix the leak so recently I took the pan down again to flatten the flange where someone had over torqued the bolts. Lo and behold there were now two almost identical pieces in the pan. Looking at exploded parts photos, I believe they are parts of a broken "Low and reverse return spring". Could explain the occasional whining and slippage I get in reverse with a cold engine. I even found a replacement part for a whopping $4.53. Question: Just…
Last reply by djwarner, -
It seems i need to change my head gasket, i removed the oilpan and there was some white substance with oil.. I've never changed head gasket, so all the hints are valuable to me. I really hate the idea that i need to dismantle half motor but guess i have to.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 5 replies
- 964 views
i have a '73 and i've replaced the clutch slave several times. it will drive good and strong for about an hour then the piston is forced all the way forward, sometimes nearly out perma-clutching (forcing the yoke forward, jammed) until i can get under there to unbolt it. even after removal from the line the piston wont go back into the unit. i now keep an extra slave with tools in the car just in case. good thing they are just $12 a pop. is there an adjustment i am missing to lessen the pressure?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 9 replies
- 1.7k views
Good evening, When I pulled the 4spd from the '70 a year or so ago during the motor rebuild, it ran fine. I opted for a 5spd and so the 4spd sat covered in a corner of the garage, upright, but elevated to protect the spline. When I re-installed the 4spd, I noticed it was difficult to get into gear. It felt as though there was something wrong with how the shifter itself was interacting with the box. I need to find the slot for the gear, and then apply an undo amount of force way down at the base of the shifter to get it to go in. Once it's in gear, it runs fine, but this same force is required for all forward gears, and reverse. I assumed I'd stored it improperly or othe…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
I was reading trying to find a good clutch to order and stumbled across a thread about adjusting the slave cylinder. "What can you adjust on a slave cylinder" I said to myself, buy a new one and be done. But boy oh boy was I wrong. Thanks to Arne and someone that goes by Dogma I turned that rod out 2 threads and left black marks in front of my house. YeeHaw! I love this forum.
Last reply by Fred Sigarto, -
- 14 replies
- 1.8k views
After spending a couple of years refeshing a 76 2+2 I've finally got it on the road. One thing I've noticed is that the rear differential seems to whine considerably. However, there doesn't seem to be any clunking or other issues with it. I originally had Amsoil synthetic GL5 gear lube, 75w-140 but switched to conventional valvoline gl5 85W-140 thinking it may be a little quieter, but it isn't. Are the rear differentials on these cars normally a little whinny or might my tooth pattern be off or something. The car has 83,000 original miles on it and everything else seems to be going OK so far. Thanks Gary
Last reply by PunkFriday, -
- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
My 240z has the following upgrades: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam with 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors which have been rebuilt. I want to install a GEN II mini evaporator and a Sanden 508 compressor to my car: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vta-66005-vuz-a/overview/ However, before attempting this i have been advised by a Mechanical engineer who is now overlooking the car i must first swap to a Street cam preferable the original stock cam and components or else i will have overheating problems when i turn on th…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
- 8 replies
- 836 views
My F54 cylinder holes measure 3.4" after a good cross hatch honing. I've got some Hasting rings, 1.5 1st 2.0 2nd then the oil ring 4.0, for the ZX pistons. Does that -030 at the end of the part number mean thirty thousandths larger? Would 3.416" be too tight? They're cast iron I believe. Thanks for any help/ideas/opinions, Cliff
Last reply by Nite_Grind, -
- 9 replies
- 1.3k views
So my 77 has a head gasket leak on both sides of the head. Been leaking for several years. Not bad, just kinda seeping until recently. Seems to be leaking a little more now, I think. Think its time to do something about it. But I'm not ready to remove the head and replace the gasket. Does anyone NOT recommend stop leak additives and if so, why? I hear it can plug other passages. But what are my odds of that happening? My cooling system is in great shape. Very clean. Coolant in the Aluminum rad and overflow bottle is very clean looking. Don't see any debris of any kind. Not sure if that matters when putting an additive in. If I have to pull the head I'm going to feel oblig…
Last reply by SMAZCO, -
- 4 replies
- 851 views
Hey mates This evening I was driving my buddy home from my place. Total drive time was about an hour mostly speed at or above 45 mph - so in 4th gear or higher. When I got home I noticed that my transmission tunnel was warm to the touch, not hot just warm on the passengers side - there's no carpet there at the moment. Curious I crawled under the car and placed my finger on the transmission and it was hot to the touch. Using my fancy laser temp reader I got a reading of 147 after about 15 minutes of cool down. Is this normal? I have noticed a small leak of oil - not sure what kind - that seems to be on the back up like socket wire of the transmission. Any suggestions woul…
Last reply by EuroDat,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
