Heat & AC
127 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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Good Evening, I am currently hot and perturbed in Texas. my 1977 280Z doesn't have AC, (all under hood components except copper fittings have been removed). I still have the heater core and evaporator installed under the dash. I'd like a sanity check, I'd like to install a new condenser, dryer, and compressor under the hood. Air Conditioning A/C R134A Kit 260Z 280Z 74-78 | Z Car Depot Inc appears to have all the underhood components. As the car was R12, I'd convert it to r134. I know I'd have to sanitize the evaporator from all R12 oils and residue. Expansion valves are non-existent, and I'd be making a gamble going this route when adding 80% r134 into the syst…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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- 13 followers
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Do we have any A/C experts in the house? My 77 280 came without A/C and I'm working on adding a system. I've got the interior stuff done and have turned my attention to the stuff in the engine compartment. Has anyone got any experience with using parts from a different vehicle and adapting them to the Z? I'm assuming the technology and compressor designs for the newer stuff (designed for R134) is better than the stuff from forty years ago. Newer, lighter, more efficient, cheaper? I could "relatively easily" fab up a mounting bracket to mount a different compressor where the stock one goes. Use a ubiquitous compressor from a Maxima, Civic, or Corolla instead of t…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 4 followers
- 9 replies
- 951 views
I'm at the point I need to pull the heater box out so I can finish my interior work and figured while I'm at it will rebuild it and replace the valve / hoses. I've found a fantastic thread on here for the restoral steps and gasket templates but still have some newbie questions to go along with it. Before disconnecting anything I'm assuming a smart first step would be to drain the coolant to avoid a mess (and check the quality of the fluid / refresh it in the radiator). First question is around that process / how far I need to go. Is it necessary to drain the radiator and the engine block both and how much should I expect to collect from each? Assuming both, once…
Last reply by Zpenman, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 690 views
So, I'm looking for some suggestions (and possible a part suggestion) for my recently completed 73 240z restoration. During the restoration I install an A/C system. With the idle adjusted to about 750 rpms the engine bogs down to near stall speed whenever you stop and the A/C is running. This problem goes away if I increase the idle to about 1000 rpms, but then it's way too high when stopping and the A/C off. What I'd like to do install a small push solenoid that activates when the A/C is on, allowing the idle to run at the higher rpms only when the A/C is on. It needs to be a solenoid that can handle being energized for long periods of time and not one designed for m…
Last reply by z3beemer, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 471 views
I see a few posts regarding fixing the original heater control valves. Unfortunately I don't have that option anymore but has anyone tried the electronic heater control valves? I see two options, a bypass version and a standard version but I don't know which route to go if anyone would be better for the engine. Considering the strong feelings about blocking off the coolant lines whenever someone deletes the heater core. The standard version would just prevent the flow when set to cold (similar to OEM) vs the bypass version is supposed to route the coolant back when set to cold. https://autoacsolutions.com/products/heater-control-valves/electronic-bypass-he…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 followers
- 15 replies
- 1.5k views
Almost done installing Vintage in my Z car. QZ16 has a good thread and it helped with some of my install. I had to use a bulkhead fitting because we had that side of firewall repaired due to a boom box or large speakers. A lot of holes, I also decide on using hardlines instead of rubber hoses. I like the look and less room. I installed the Vintage air controls into the original heat vent con
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 9 followers
- 57 replies
- 8.9k views
Hi all, My AC system is stock or at least what I been told. Always use R12 and haven't converted to R134 yet. The fitments on the compressor still R12. Not like the R134a where one is bigger than the other and sometime caps color coded. I read online, forums, including this one and seem like people stating that R134a can be run on R12 system provided flush all refrigerant, new fitments, run not as cool as R12, high pressure.... Knowing R12 is no longer available or at least at authorized AC shop. The dilemma I have is that I'd like to keep the car as stock as possible. Which lead to parts hard to find and sometime impossible. Seem like there is a…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 6 followers
- 18 replies
- 7.3k views
The 40 year old duct hoses are pretty deteriorated. Best suggestions for replacements? I am finding some 2" duct hose from DORMAN #96034 which looks more like the duct hose for the heat exchange from exhaust manifolds from older vehicles. Helpful suggestions always welcome. The resurrection project is slowly marching on. I will have a little more spare time the next few months now that school is over and my babysitting duties are done until the middle of August when our daughter returns to her teaching job. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 13 followers
- 55 replies
- 15.3k views
A good buddy @chaseincats put me onto this upgrade last year, he originally found it over on HybridZ. The replacement motor and fan comes from one of our favorite donor cars - a '99 Kia Sportage. He pulled one from a salvage car and installed it into his 280Z. Yes, the housing needs a 1/16th trim all around the opening but that is the only mod. His electrical plug was a direct fit. For my 240Z, the OE motor is hardwired with a spade and bullet fitting. Another buddy recently did the same upgrade for his '72 resto project and he put together a jumper for me with the correct plug for the motor and the spade and bullet for my harness. Grinding out the housing with eve…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
Hey guys, Just figured out how to rebuild the vacuum water valve on a 280z without having to send it off somewhere to be restored or buy a stupid expensive one online (If you can find it. I couldn't). This one is off a 1977 280z. The valve in question is the valve that is actuated when the climate control is put into the heat position and vacuum is sent to open the valve to allow coolant to flow to the mechanically operated coolant valve (That one is operated by the temperature setting). Anyways, mine was leaking super bad like a faucet. I did some research and came across this youtube video. Not sure why its age restricted. Here is the valv…
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
- 6 followers
- 16 replies
- 1.8k views
Good afternoon! since getting the Z road worthy this past spring, I’ve debated installing A/C in the car since, well, because Texas. My father removed all the components from under the hood, and the remaining original HVAC components are located under the dash. He didn’t take global warming into account in the 90s. I’m looking through the FSM right now, but I’m debating weather to replace the under hood components from Motorsport auto or go with vintage air. 1. What considerations do I need to go over, and what steps should I follow through? 2. what advantages does Vintage Air have over replacing the stock components. thanks i…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 2.3k views
I have a 1977 280z with Factory Installed AC. My condenser has 4-5 leaking points, but the rest of the system seems sound (to be tested). My local junkyard has 2 280zx. I was thinking about heading down and seeing if either have AC units, but wanted to check if there is compatibility between these systems or if it is better just to buy an aftermarket condenser? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by Matthew Abate,
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