Heat & AC
127 topics in this forum
-
- 2 followers
- 0 replies
- 463 views
Hey guys, this was my take at restoring my old climate control box. Hopefully it helps someone in the future in case they didn't take good photos:) This is on a 77 280z. I am not sure if all years are the same. My module was really sticky, which was presumably caused by rust and lack of lubrication, so I went the extra mile and redid everything so as to never have to touch this box again. Here is the start take note that I swept every lever to the left so that everything is in sync. The module is upside down. Next is a close up photo of the Hot/Cold switch. It is held on by a pressure washer and snap ring. There is a black mechanism with a spring and …
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
-
Heater valve 1 2
by Patcon- 4 followers
- 20 replies
- 1.6k views
So I am messing around with heater boxes right now and I was pressure testing two heater valves I had. I cobbled together some hoses to attach my coolant tester to. One valve did ok, although it leaks slightly around the push rod when it's being actuated. The other leaks badly as the junction of the brass body to the steel bracketry. So in the best Captain Obvious manner, I decided to take it apart! Folded the ears back and removed the bracketry The internals just pull out after that There is a square O ring seal between the hard plastic end and an inner washer. I think if it were replaced the valve would seal up. I'…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 2 followers
- 14 replies
- 5.8k views
77 280z The heater valve on this car has been in a permently open position, I thought it was corroded into that position but I have cleaned it, removed a bunch of silicone gasket pieces but still can't get it to close. When I look at it close up I'm thinking I might be missing a part that connects to the plunger valve or perhaps the rubber seal/diaphragm is so hard with age that it can't move. In the first 2 pics I have removed the switch that sits on top of the plunger, you can see that there is only about an 1/8" of movement and the valve is wide open in both positions. In the pics #3 and #4 I have removed the cotter pin and the brass cap, so the # 3 pic is in…
Last reply by matt90gt, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
hey guys, my 1977 Z is under the knife again, this time for a complete interior restoration. Currently I am doing a full rebuild of the HVAC unit inside the dash down to the bolt. (AC box, heater box, climate control module, etc). I have everything apart and have a plan for pretty much everything except the heater core/vacuum water **** and the temperature control water ****( apologies if this is not those valves actual names). As you can see my vacuum water valve was leaking bad (I actually previously capped off the heater core from the engine bay due to this) and everything just looks old and corroded, and shouldn't be left unadressed. Anyways it is…
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 2.1k views
My intention is to have the trinary switch on my Vintage Air system operate the main electric fan on the car's radiator ahead of the engine. Thus, this fan, a 2450 CFM 14" standard fan from Perma-Cool, will be controlled in puller mode by both the A/C trinary switch as well as the main thermo switch on the engine block. The other option is to mount a pusher fan ahead of the A/C condenser and have that controlled by the trinary switch. But having two fans on the car seems unnecessary. Has anyone else done a similar "double controller" set-up on their car? Or, are there issues with my proposed set-up that I have not foreseen?
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
- 1.7k views
I have a new vintage air system in my car from ZCD. Looks awesome but its not spitting out cool air, it was around 79ish Fareinheit. I had this professional done by a "Z expert" but he is hours away from where i live. I used a $20 R134a can with gauge to test pressure. It says on it pressure should be between 30-50 psi. i was at about 120psi. I evacuated it down to normal range. when i started doing this it was spitting out a lot of yellow fluid and pressure but when i got it down to around 50ish psi nothing but room temp air was coming out. I am wondering if i should remove everything and start over getting it around 45psi? Any thoughts
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 5 followers
- 45 replies
- 3.4k views
Greeting folks Not sure if this belong to Heat & AC or Engine & powertrain ... Here goes My radiator was serviced couple of months ago due to some minor leak at the top of the radiator. The shop need to open up the entire top cover of the radiator to do a fix... They recommended to flush, and remove all of the build up over the year. The fee for the job is about the same if I were to buy the new aluminum 3 rows radiator. However, I like the stock looking and it also 3 rows radiator, so I agree with the job. This is couple of months back before the summer. All seem to be working well. Recently, I notice the fan clutch engaged too fre…
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 5.2k views
So I have the Gen 2 Mini in my 73. It works well enough but if the car has been sitting in the Florida sun on a 95 degree day it takes quite a while for it to cool it down. I’m going to upgrade it to something larger. I called Vintage Air to get some tech specs on the various models. The person helping me was able to search for sales by car model and said they sold a Gen IV Magnum last year to a person with a 73 who lives in Austin TX and they never returned it. Now we all know that doesn’t mean that it fit or if they ever even opened the box but I figured I’d throw it out there to see if anyone knows about it. As a side note has anyone fit anything larger than the mini…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 followers
- 0 replies
- 593 views
If anyone is looking for the stock expansion valve o-rings which are NLA, for the outside sealing ring use a 1-1/2”id x 1-11/16”od x 3/32”cs also known as AS568-128 HNBR. The inside ring is 1-1/2”id x 1-5/8”od x 1/16”cs also known as AS568-029 HNBR. I purchased mine at www.Theoringstore.com . It took a few tries. Hope this helps somebody.
Last reply by Chickenwing, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 557 views
I am sure not many folks had seen this. Found one rarely…the knob that opens and shut the air duct near the legs/knees on the driver side 🙂
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 1.5k views
Still getting hot, thought I had this worked out, but nearly blistered my finger on it today. the fuse box looks good on the under side, no corrosion etc... the contacts were polished with some very fine sandpaper (500grit IIRC) to make sure I had good contact there. Seems nice and tight, so think I have gotten all the heat generating resistance contact points, leaving the fuse itself and the motor. I don't have an ammeter that I can use that goes over 10 amps so a direct reading is out of the question. But if I did what should I expect? I seem to recall seeing 160watt somewhere maybe on the motor. if that is the case I would be expecting to see about 12amps max at 14v. I…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 5 followers
- 27 replies
- 3.9k views
Hi guys, My hot cold knob at the center console is stuck. It is in the middle and when I try to push it towards the right hot point it just springs back, it seems like the flap or door whatever it moves is stuck. I have the center console arm rest out and want to see if I can get it fixed while I have it out. what should I check and can it be fixed easily without removing too many things. I don’t believe it is a vacuum issue. It is just a mechanical thing stuck I believe? Any help greatly appreciated…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
