Heat & AC
127 topics in this forum
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I thought I would post what I have done to complete my retrofit from R12 to 134a. I ordered a Vintage Air 12" x 24" condenser from Summit Racing since the old condenser was a 12 x 24. The new condenser comes with #6 and #8 male o ring fittings. Since I am trying to keep this retrofit stock looking as possible I found that you can remove the stock condenser's brackets and reuse them on the new condenser with a little modification. Since the new condenser is slightly wider you will need to slot the 4 mounting holes about 3/16" toward each other. The only other modification needed is on the left side bracket and you will need to make an opening for the #8 male fitting to go…
Last reply by Cruzzar, -
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- 4 followers
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I thought I would share how I went about converting my old R12 system in my 1975 280Z to R134a. My system charged up OK after sitting dormant since 1995. It still had a charge in it but not enough to cool the air. Once charged it put out about 50 degree air on a 102 degree day (good) but the old Hatachi compressor made some really nasty noises (bad). The compressor was louder than the motor while driving down the road. I worried that the dying compressor would contaminate the system and if it plugged up the expansion valve I would be up the proverbial creek without an adequate means of propulsion. I am trying to keep the engine compartment/car looking relative stock.…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I need to replace my Hatachi compressor and in the process I will convert to 134a. I need to find a replacement for my drier. Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement that has ports that are close to matching up with the existing hardlines. I read somewhere that the later Nissan AC systems used a drier that was a close fit. Does anyone have an application or part number to suggest. I know I can just get a generic drier and make it fit but I would like to keep the installation looking as stock as possible. I have a '75 280Z.
Last reply by S30Driver, -
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Quick question - the "mode door"'s foam I'm sure is on its way out because with the car on vent or AC, a small amt of heat comes through the heater vent on the bottom. I tried pulling on the vacuum pod that opens/shuts it and it's all the way down. Any idea how big (or small) a pain it is to re-foam the mode door (sometimes called the blend door)? Is this doable without taking the dash out?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I'm attempting to install an HVAC system from a 260Z with factory AC to a none AC 280Z. I'm not familiar with the vacuum systems. How does it gets its air from to open close the air ducts and water heater from? I've looked at the fsm but still can't figure it out. Will it work? I've got new compressor and condenser. Anyone done this before? Your help is appreciated. Thanks.
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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This forum has been very helpful to me. As a means of documenting some of what we have done and to help others avoid some of my mistakes I thought I would post the installation of a vintage gen II mini AC system. Background: My son and I are restoring a 1973 240z. We call it the bucket, as there was a significant amount of rust that had to be dealt with and our other choice – Money Pit was already taken. We are changing the color from 113 avocado green to mango orange, it has an L-28 engine and a 5 speed gear box. At this point: the car was taken to bare metal, metal replaced where required and any rust has been eliminated the …
Last reply by qz16, -
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I'm at the point that I need to weld in my patch panel inside the cowl area where the fresh air chiney lives. If a system like the Next Gen is going to be installed, do I need to put the chimney back, or should I just delete it? Its already cut out, just getting ready to install my patch.
Last reply by DC871F, -
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In the process of removing and reinstalling several underhood components, I managed to lose one of the nipples: I tried several searches to find anything to re-create this, to no avail. The best I've come up with is to buy a tank with intact nipples on ebay. Any ideas? Thanks.
Last reply by Roberts280Z, -
- 3 followers
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I am looking for a Blower Motor assembly with the squirrel cage. (even just the squirrel cage would work) Following are photos of the need parts. I really appreciate anyone's help on this.
Last reply by Terrapin Z, -
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In the final stages of completing the rebuild of a motor for my 77 280z. To go along with it, I wanted to upgrade the stock compressor to a Sanden 508 from Vintage Air. The simplest solution appears to be the slotted brackets welded to a steel plate such as what Freez74 did. I wanted the idler pulley for tension adjustment, so I sourced a alloy zx ac bracket and some 1/4" plate 6061 aluminum to fabricate a adaptor. First was the alignment of the idler & compressor. After a test fit of the compressor on the stock bracket, I had to move it back about 12mm so I cut the idler frame ears, removed the correct length, and welded it back together. Also had to grind …
Last reply by duffymahoney, -
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I have the dash out and have removed the blower. I thought I would replace the original heater hoses while I was there. To access them, I removed the heater valves. I thought I would check the operation of the vacuum heatercock. The vacuum will retract the cawk, but in its deactivated position, it will not block the flow as it should. I have attached a view up the exit pipe. It's hard to see, but the cawk does not seal at all against the pipe seat. With the pipe removed, you can see that the cawk extension is about 0.92", but the pipe seat is 1.04" deep. I see that ZCarSource offers to rebuild these, but I managed to break off one of the…
Last reply by Oilking53, -
Fan clutch 1 2
by AK260- 2 followers
- 23 replies
- 2.8k views
Wise ones, I need you wisdom please! My original fan clutch was shot, so I bought another. That one doesn’t seem to ever “turn on” and I can stop the fan blades with my fingers even with the gauge 3/4 across! I can make it work if I give it a couple of very brief blasts with the blow torch so the mechanism inside clearly moves. I figured it must be just adjusted too high and ordered another. I just received an Aisin one from Rockauto, currently being tested as I type :p At 85c it still wasn’t feeling any stiffer and I can’t imagine it getting much hotter than that when in the car. So what temp is it supposed to work at? Nothing I can see in the FSM other than h…
Last reply by AK260,
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