Heat & AC
127 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
Continuing to rebuild the smaller components on the 78 resurrection project. There are a few small pin holes that can be easily repaired in the fan housing. Fan motor bench tests very nicely. Will be needing new foam seals throughout the assembly. My main concern is the housing section with the door that opens and closes. It is badly rusted and seized. I am soaking it in BLASTER over the weekend and hope to tackle this project on Monday. It is so badly rusted it is difficult to determine how the door is attached to the pivot shaft. My plan was to remove the shaft and fabricate a new door and seal material. It is very strange as we dig into this car and find so ma…
Last reply by One Way, -
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AC Installation cost 1 2 3
by lcord- 7 followers
- 29 replies
- 9.6k views
Hello I own a 1972 240Z without air conditioning. The dealer installed AC was pulled out. I've been searching for someone to install one for me. I don’t have the skill, space or tools to complete the task. I have my eye on the Gen II compac from Vintage Air. I currently live in Southern Cal and at some point will be moving to Texas. The quote I received from a shop in Santa Ana, CA called The Air Shop was about $3,200. That would include the Gen II, an electric fan and installation. It’s my understanding that this is very labor intensive. I just want to know if this is considered a reasonable cost or maybe they don’t won’t to work on it and gave me a high quote to…
Last reply by Namerow, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 2.9k views
On my recently acquired 1975 280Z, the heater system had a seized control valve (water ****) and the control cable was broken about 1-1/2" from the end. I purchased a new control valve; however, I haven't had any luck with finding a replacement cable. I still have the broken off piece of the cable and would like advice on the best way to repair this. Also, it looks like it would connect to the black linkage piece. If that's correct, which hole does it connect to? The 1975 FSM doesn't seem to describe or illustrate this. Thanks! And, if anyone has a spare heater control cable that they'd like to sell me, that would be greatly appreciated! If mine was intact, i…
Last reply by SoCalJim, -
- 2 followers
- 0 replies
- 1.8k views
A few years ago, I was in the middle of restoring the heater/blower system for my 70. All of the foam gaskets were shot, so I made tracings and used them to fabricate replacements from foam sheet. My approach involved making paper cut-outs that I could glue to the foam sheet and then use as a guide for cutting out the shapes and punching the holes. I didn't want to risk malking a mistake with my original tracings, so I scanned them into .pdf files and then used those to print out the pieces that I eventually glued to the foam. I ended up with a library of .pdf files for all of the system's gaskets. I posted these as part of a how-to article, but another member recen…
Last reply by Namerow, -
- 4 followers
- 19 replies
- 3.8k views
Hi everyone,I have a leaking heater valve and I have to remove it to send it in as a core to get a rebuilt unit. The copper thermostat wire runs into the hot air housing and I am wondering if it's possible to remove stuff in front of it for access, or must I remove the whole dash board to disconnect that wire?Howard74 260z
Last reply by poatfacility, -
- 7 followers
- 36 replies
- 6.4k views
My 78 is getting too hot. I've done a few things to it since it was on the road, so keep in mind that I'm unable to drive it right now, only idle it when backed out of my basement garage. Here's what's been done to it since I drove it a few years ago that relate to the cooling system: -Deleted the coolant bypass line just to tidy up the engine bay. I plugged the thermostat housing and plugged the small coolant line that comes off the heater hose hard line by the #1 spark plug. -Tested the 180* thermostat in boiling water and drilled out the tiny bypass hole in the thermostat just a wee bit after reading about others who had bypassed the coolant line at…
Last reply by gundee, -
- 5 followers
- 15 replies
- 2.6k views
I am trying to figure out the best way of controlling the electric radiator fans in my 260 Z. The previous owner installed dual electric fans operated by a thermostat with a temperature probe in the upper radiator hose connection to the radiator. The temperature switch no longer turns off the fan so that even when the car is cold the fan is running and I need to pull the fuse. Would it be best just to replace this with an identical unit or should I install a temperature sensor in place of the threaded plug of the thermostat housing? If so, does anyone have an idea what the threading is on this plowed? Thanks for reading this… Jeff
Last reply by 7tooZ, -
Leaking Heater 1 2 3
by TomoHawk- 1 follower
- 27 replies
- 4.3k views
I found some dripping from behind the fan motor after I noticed the water temperature gauge was indicating very hot. It could be the water valve or the small hose that's back there. Which is more common to fail, the valve or the hose? BTW- I used a flush chemical earlier this Spring. but the effluent was clear, so I don'yt think it loosened any rust.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
Heater blower 1 2
by Phil Z- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 10.6k views
The wiring harness that runs from fan switch to the blower has a wire blue with white stripe and on my harness this wire is coming from the connector at the blower. This wire is not connected to anything and I am not sure if it is supposed to. Including a photo to help explain. Currently my blower won't turn on. I can't see anywhere on the fsm that shows this harness. Not sure if I accidentally cut a wire. 1972 240z built 9/71 Phil Smith
Last reply by Namerow, -
- 14 replies
- 6.6k views
I've seen it both ways but would like to hear what the factory configuration is for a 1972 240. The inlet hose coming of the head to the heater valve goes through the bottom hole in the firewall? The outlet comes out the top hole on the firewall? That's what I've been able to find so far. Also I think it'll work either way but if someone could be so kind as to confirm this I would appreciate it. Thanks! Cliff RED=inlet BLUE=outlet
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
I've deleted the coolant line that runs through the intake manifolds on my 240. Now I'm UN- bypassing my heater core for defrost function to work properly. The "T" that connects the hoses under the spark plugs that feeds those two components, heater core and intakes outflow to the radiator will now only flow coolant from the heater core's outlet. Would this cause any problems? Should I run a straight hose from the outlet of the heater core to the radiator's outlet to the water pump? Confusing to me so any opinion right or wrong could help me to figure this out. Thanks for any help!
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 7 followers
- 32 replies
- 6.8k views
My car came without A/C and I'm working on adding it. I had originally planned to use my manual control head to run the system, but this does not work. The manual cable driven control heads are completely incompatible with the A/C evaporator box as they both want to occupy the same space. I had to swap over to a control head designed for A/C. That itself is not a big deal. What IS a big deal is that the A/C control heads are vacuum driven instead of cable driven and I really really didn't want to plumb my car with all those vacuum lines. Check valves, that white tank in the engine compartment, solenoid valves, rats nest of vacuum tubing under the dash... I really, re…
Last reply by Patcon,
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