Promoted to Knowledge Base
Articles in this forum have been promoted to our Knowledge Base for long term preservation. Comments here are still open, but, the main article will be featured in our Knowledge database.
23 topics in this forum
-
- 1 follower
- 18 replies
- 12.7k views
Installing a GM HEI Ignition Module into a 1976 280Z (which already had a ZX ignition) This article describes how to upgrade a ZX ignition module to a GM HEI module. In this particular case, the ZX ignition module happened to be installed in a 1976 280Z which had been upgraded to a ZX distributor/ignition module using the Atlantic Z Club instructions. The purpose of the HEI install was to fix a sudden engine cut-out problem and a jumpy tach problem. Heat Sink The first thing I needed was a nice heat sink and, afters scouring the basement and considering attacking an old Western Electric telegraph test set with a hack saw, I laid eyes on a stack of these: Which …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
-
- 5 followers
- 18 replies
- 8.7k views
I have methodically been "refreshing" my '73 240Z a bit at a time. I've repainted the car, rebuilt the front & rear suspension, installed new carpets, a headliner and a dash cap, refinished the engine bay and just recently had the engine rebuilt. :knockedou One of the last detail items I had left to tackle was the horns. They were pretty cruddy looking after 30 plus years of service. :sick: First of all, here is a list of items that I used to refinish the horns: Phillips screw driver 5/16" nut driver 1 Scotchbrite pad #0000 Steel wool 3M rubbing compound PPG wax & grease remover Satin black enamel paint Wire brush Barkeepers friend an old tooth …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 followers
- 4 replies
- 695 views
Stumbled across this today and downloaded a copy. Lots of interesting info for the Z and other Datsun's here including production run changes with VINs, and other things like the original add on (after-market) air conditioning info. http://240260280.com/Docs/TSB/Technical_Bulletins_1969_1972.pdf
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 8 followers
- 55 replies
- 44.1k views
As part of the slow refresh of my red '71 240Z I knew I needed to replace all the fuel hoses, especially the big ones that go to the expansion tank in the right rear quarter panel. I'd read all the instructions for saving money by using generic fuel-rated hose and inserting sleeves in them to keep them from kinking and such. But since I am more than a little reluctant to pollute my red car's originality, and also because I really didn't feel like messing with bending and inserting sleeves, I decided to bite the bullet and buy factory hoses. As a side benefit, I figured I could advise others on whether this was as good an idea as it seemed to me at the time. So now that it…
Last reply by lenponz, -
- 14 followers
- 117 replies
- 100.5k views
Tired of the old SLOW and Tired wipers on your 240Z? Ya, Me too. SO I did some research on the subject over at HybridZ and found that for a few years now, people have been trying to use the 94' Accord and 91' Civic wiper motors as a replacement to the Datsun wiper motor that ONLY like to move if the window is WET... So I read every thread and post on the subject to find out as much as possible. All I found was pictures and posts by people saying that "it works great BUT..... The wiper does'nt PARK when you turn the switch to OFF. You have to shut the wiper switch off at the EXACT moment to get the blades to sit in the usual DOWN position. So I went to the junk yar…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 3.9k views
Here is a DIY headlight relay modification that I implemented on a friend's 73 this weekend. This will not work on early Z cars where the headlight switch completed the path to ground. Parts needed: 2 SPDT or SPST automotive relays with bases 14 AWG wire - It is good to have many different colors to keep things straight 12 AWG wire Electrical tape to wrap your wire bundles 1 3-pin 6.3mm non-latching connector (male and female) 1 6-pin 6.3mm non-latching connect…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
Oil the Clock? 1 2 3
by zclocks- 4 followers
- 24 replies
- 9.8k views
I'm fairly new to this web site and have seen several articles on clocks. This is of particular interest to me as I do have some experience with total clock reconditioning. I've been repairing, refurbishing and specializing in 70-83 Datsun /Nissan clocks for the last 8 years and thought I would pass on several bits of trivia and technical information. I never really thought about NOT using oil on a clock as that seems to be common knowledge until a friend came to me years ago with a 240Z clock. Bill knew I worked on all sorts of electronic hardware and was soliciting my input. His problem was that his clock had stopped (like it was the only 240 clock that didn't work). I…
Last reply by 240260280, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 2.7k views
New respect for tires after this:
Last reply by rturbo 930, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 2.5k views
My 1971 240Z has an electric problem. With the key on I can start the car, the radio works and the brake lights but none of the gauges work. Fuel, tach, oil amp etc. They all worked the last time I drove it but now nada. Is there a master fuse link or place to start checking. I have a test light. The battery is fully charged. Thanks
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 54 replies
- 22.6k views
One of the ugliest jobs I've done while stripping down an old 240Z has been removing the tar-like insulation that covers much of the interior floorboards and transmission tunnel. I have done it by using aircraft paint stripper, but this was a big mess. It softened up the tar, but made it flow into low spots. Once I had most of it removed with a paint scraper, I had to use a wire wheel and more paint stripper to get the last of it off. Some have suggested using heat, but I'd think this would also be a mess. There must be a better way. Actually, I found that with no chemicals at all, some of the insulation will come off quite easily. Just get the corner of a paint scraper …
Last reply by Dogariffic, -
- 10 replies
- 18.4k views
This is a real basic primer on how to bump out dents and shrink metal. Ok, if you're handy enough with an oxy-acetylene torch, then you'll be ok with this next procedure. If you're concerned with the "panel beaters", and I take that to mean the specialty hammers, dollys and other body specific tools, you can still do quite a bit with your regular tools. You can use your regular ball peen hammer or regular claw hammer as long as you're careful of the claw. See if you can address the metal from behind. Typically this will involve removing the lights, wiring and other trim pieces that will be in the way. Once done with that, take a good look at the metal. Remember, metal…
Last reply by ensys, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
- 16k views
For those of us with original fuel pumps on our 240 and 260Zs, those pumps are now at least 35 years old. Obviously, if they haven't yet been replaced, the time of need can't be far away. In most cases, the obvious answer is to simply replace the pump, either with a new mechanical pump or convert to a modern electric pump. But the original pumps were designed to be rebuildable. For those of us with restored or original survivor cars, rebuilding the original pump is one way to retain some of the car's originality. It's also surprisingly affordable. Of course, it's not as easy as it used to be. Many of the parts shown below are no longer available from Nissan. But the cri…
Last reply by Mike,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Parman
