Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
-
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi all, My fuel pump died so I'm replacing it with a new one. I just wanted to have a quick sanity check to make sure I'm not going to burn this one up. My only concern is the new inlet for my fuel pump goes to the filter which is about 2 inches above the outlet of the fuel tank. Please let me know if you notice anything wrong other than I haven't wired up the pump yet.
Last reply by Hodgimus-maximus, -
-
- 2 followers
- 21 replies
- 6.6k views
This is on my 76 280Z. After running the car for awhile, my fuel tank gets pressurized ---- When I take off the gas cap I get a huge rush of air coming out of the tank, a big whoooosh. Looking at my service manual, I can't tell if if the check valve is under the car or behind the passenger side rear panel near the vapor separator in the hatch. I saw in an old post where a guy had a similar problem which was corrected by replacing the check valve. Of course, I'm never going to find another check valve for sale, but I first just want to know where it is located. Thanks Gary
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 4.5k views
I have a 77 280z that I purchased this summer for a winter project (or longer). Working on the fuel system so I decided to take the injectors to NAPA to have them rebuilt and cleaned. All good just one injector has a wider spray pattern than the others but flow rate was consistent, 49, 48, 49, 48, 48, 49 ML for 30 seconds. First, I can't find anything on the flow rate for the injectors, Secondly can't find anything on the injectors. Here is a description\of the injectors: Light green ( Turquoise ) plug with markings that say RAM, RIM-116, 7016. Would appreciate any input. Thanks
Last reply by chiefmd, -
- 3 followers
- 20 replies
- 8.5k views
A while back I cleaned my 280Z fuel pump and replaced the o-rings. Its running ok and I compared it to an old reserve pump. The reserve pump delivered about 75% of the flow compared to the one in the car. Since these pumps are getting harder to find in good condition I decided to take a closer look at the spare pump. The outside looked shocking, corroded and rusty so I cleaned and painted it to make it look respectable. After opening it up Im wondering it was worth the trouble cleaning and keep it as an emergency unit. The inside is showing a lot more signs of wear compared to the one in the car. There are possabilities to improve it. I was thinking of making a n…
Last reply by chiefmd, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 3.2k views
Hi there, Looking for ideas to test or for THE solution to my problem. So far did not find the same topics open and closed. So at stop, everything is perfect. Stable idle at 800-900rpm. No effect of pressing clutch or brake. When gas pedal is released, rpm comes back to normal. When engines hot (above 120°) then start the troubles: 1. Gear shifting up or down: from gear 2, rpm goes up to 2000rpm on their own and only come back to lower idel when gear is engaged. During shifting, if i keep clutch down, idle comes back to normal after 1-2 seconds. And so, when engine is cold, no similar issue till temperature reaches 120°. I also remember the first …
Last reply by Labubre, -
.thumb.jpg.c6884110f2b3405d0a425d12937a14bf.jpg)
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
- 5.5k views
Hello, I am in the process of restoring my 1973 Series II 240z and am looking for someone that still has or is familiar with the factory electric fuel pump setup/wiring (AKA V-3 Modification Program). My car came with the mechanical pump and also an electric pump but the previous owner hacked into the factory wiring and really wired the electric pump in a very strange way. I want to revert the wiring to factory original. My car has both relays "A" & B" per the V-3 modification. I also have the hacked up V-3 Modification Harness B but it's way to hacked up to reuse to I found a new one on Ebay. I am having an issue with find where two wires go from the new V-…
Last reply by hls3073z, -
- 5 followers
- 28 replies
- 3.9k views
Well I recently put a new inline fuel pump in my 1982 280zx 2+2. I put 4 gallons of fuel in it and tried to crank it over it's getting fuel to fuel pump but not past the fuel damper. So my question is what are my options is it possible I'm not getting enough pressure in the tank could the fuel damper be bad if so could I just remove it and run a rubber fuel line straight from the pump to the aluminum fuel lines and cut it completely out. Car sat for 10 years so my thinking is I need to replace entire fuel lines. I cleaned had tank and sending unit with paint thinner put new fuel pump and filter on it but still no fuel to rails any help be greatly appreciated Sent from …
Last reply by rabrooks, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
I replaced the starter on my 82 280zx turbo and all the battery cables and car won't start and the starter is overheating I replaced all fuel injectors and wiring fuel lines fuel pump and drained my tank what is another possibility Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 25 replies
- 3.4k views
Would you believe the connection pin for the coolant sensor (for the gauge) pulled out!? I had to replace the bullet connector and thus the whole wire, and while I was pulling out the slack, the thing suddenly got loose, so I kept pulling and there was the end! FYI, the pin has a wire that goes through the sensor body, to the base of the sensor, where there's a little washer-like thing that probably generates the resistance for he gauge. The sensor is hollow. It's not leaking coolant. BTW- can you get the connector for the other (EFI) coolant sensor? It looks like a fuel injector connector, but the groove is offset, probably so you don't plug it onto t…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
I'm just finalizing an engine rebuild and the car tries to crank but does not start. Went through lots of potential things that could have gone wrong and since the injectors are not spraying fuel but there is a spark we are thinking that the culprit is the ECU not sending the signal to the injectors. I have done some research and see that Pin #1 on the ECU connects directly to the negative terminal of the ignition coil, which does not seem to be the case in my situation. Can I safely reroute a fresh wire or should there be a resistor in between?
Last reply by JSM, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 912 views
I picked up a spare AFM at the local JY, it test ok per the FSM (voltage test/resistance test/pump micro switch) but I still wanted to test it in the car. No point in having a spare part if you don't know if its going to work. Anyway a little background I was doing some vacuum testing, and was at about 17 in/hg with the orig AFM after fully warmed up. I added the 500ohm pot in series with the temp sensor and was able to pickup RPM and increase vacuum by added resistance (enriching fuel to air mix). The plug was still in place on the AFM for the idle air bypass and I did not want to mess with it since this is not really a problem, car drives great and starts fine. So while…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 1 follower
- 29 replies
- 19.7k views
i've been having intermittent hard-starting, which has culminated in total non-starting. the car has been my DD for a few months and i've replaced all the sensors, injector connectors, fuel lines and vacuum hoses. it either starts perfectly or starts after much cranking, then runs really well with no hint of fueling problems. at first i thought it was a hot-start issue, but now it will not start cold. the plugs are dry, decent color and all are providing spark - i rested them on the valve cover and cranked the motor and saw them all fire in order. fuel pressure at the rail is 35-40 psi and fuel pump is running fine. for some reason the injectors don't seem to be getti…
Last reply by Sideways78,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
