Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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I was wondering if the camshafts changed from carb to fuel infection. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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- 1 follower
- 31 replies
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My 75 starts well drives well, gets good gas mileage, BUT has always had a slight miss sound at low idle. I say low idle since when warming up the AAR keeps the idle higher. After it warms up it drops into a recurring miss. I tested things like compression (fine) spark timing (fine) fuel pressure (correct) and vacuum (a little low 17hg at sea level). Since it only seems to miss at idle and reading up on mixture level having an effect on vacuum (I presume do to less than an optimal burn, reducing overall efficiency resulting in lower rpr for a given throttle opening) I decided to try the temp sensor pot mod. I used a 500ohm WW pot, added some bullet connecto…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi all, Some time ago a fellow member Lenny was in the process of making an aftermarket ECU which would be a bolt-in replacement for the standard ECU. It was a great idea and I was hoping it would be a success. Unfortunately Lenny was sided tracked and the project stalled. I like the retro EFI in the 280Z, but I would like to have something tunable and it’s getting harder to find good functioning parts for the 280Z. Now for so something I never thought I would do: Fit an aftermarket ECU. Now how to go about it. Which system should I use and should it be a complete swap or partial swap????? The choice soon came down to 3 systems. 1: Th…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Is there anything magical about the direction of the flow through the PCV system? I think I could clean up the engine compartment and hose scheme if I were to reverse the flow direction of the system. So do we have any engine vent experts in our midst? Currently, under low flow conditions (low blow by and high manifold vacuum), it pulls from the tube in the block, through the PCV and refreshes clean air into the nipple on the top of the valve cover. This direction already reverses under high flow conditions, so is there any issue with reversing this direction for the low flow (default) condition?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Greetings all. My wife and I just bought a 1978 280z (MT) and this is my first post on the site. I’ve been changing out the fuel injector electrical connectors with a Bosch upgrade part. I can tell that a previous owner had spliced in a pigtail connector, and having seen what he did with other electrical work, I decided to check his work by going to the FSM wiring diagram and testing which of the two wires goes to the terminal on the ECM connector. The wiring diagram for each injector identifies two wires, the left wire connects to the dropping resistor, while the right wire goes to the ECM connector (in the wiring diagram I've attached, for fuel injector #1, “B…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 6 replies
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I stripped my car down three years ago and I have finally started to put it together I removed the EGR from the intake manifold and possibly some other things I cant remember and now I have two hoses I don't figure out where to connect. I've tried to look at pictures of different engine bays but i can't figure out exactly where they should go, and there is no obvious connection point for either one so thinking that I, in a weak moment, have removed something more without putting it back.... The hose connected to the hard line running to the other side of the engine, where should it go? Since the rubber hose is rather short there is not a lot of options... …
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Hello I just bought a 1976 280z, My first z but i have done a lot of research on them. It will start up easily and run cold well at around 800rpm. But once it warms up (the temp gauge is about in the middle.) It will drop down to 500rpm and stutter. If I give it barley any throttle to bring it to 800 rpm it is fine but if I go up to 1000-1200rpm it will back fire through the intake and exhaust. The plugs are back but not fouled. If I manually control the AFM it will run fine. I also unplugged the connector to the cold start injector but it did not seem to change anything. I am thinking the temperature sensor is the problem. also there might be some vacuum issues beca…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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- 27 replies
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hi guys, im having a problem getting my z to stay on. I can start it but it shuts off immediately. its a California model 280z. all of the emissions stuff and cold start have been removed by po. seems like the fuel pump dosent stay on after start. the fuel pump works and I have a g3 fuel filter in line with fuel rail. if I use the cold start plug on the harness the car stays on longer but dies cause its not meant to keep car running. a little brief history of stuff I've done: efi relay crapped out so replaced it with 2 relays and worked fine for awhile. a bad battery killed my alternator and found out po did a alternator upgrade after going through a c…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I'm having a problem with the throttle return on my 1976 280z. I'm finishing reassembly after a complete restoration of the car and I've run into an issue with my throttle return. Most other Z cars I've seen have a large throttle return spring attached to the linkage on the throttle body and to a post bolted to a bottom screw attaching the throttle body to the intake. My linkage has no hole to attach the spring to and no post attached to the bottom of the throttle body for the spring? Am I missing something? The throttle does not return well at all.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 0 replies
- 991 views
I found this company in Tracy, CA that will rebuild/repair most items associated with fuel injection.... great guy to do business with. Check out his website for more details. www.fuelinjectioncorp.com Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by montanagrl, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
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I'm new to 280z and fuel injection. My z is a 1978. My car sat for 10 yrs when I bought it. It cranks over with a new battery but won't start. I'm having the tank cleaned because it sat with about 8gallons of fuel. I'm replacing the pump but there's a couple items I'm hoping someone can identify for me. The second photo is where the pump attaches, what's that canister? Is the first photo some in line filter? also where is the fuel pump relay or relays? where can I get a color wiring diagram? and is there a factory assembly manual or chassis manual?
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
- 2 followers
- 20 replies
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Hello All, I have posted a couple of questions on other issues and i just want to say i will respond to those as soon as they are fixed, but one issue piles on top of another and cant fix one without the other. So, the issue i am having is the following. I start the car and it turns on, 10 seconds in, it dies. This is what i have done as checks 1) unplugged starter solenoid, fuel pump turns on when i put the key to "on" 2) Fuel pressure when cranking is 36 psi, but when i stop cranking, you can see the needle oscillate alot from the injectors firing and i am thinking the fuel pump is not staying on after cranking. then you see the pressure st…
Last reply by ramsesosirus,
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