Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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I have a 75 280 I've just fitted Throttle bodies and mapped injection along with a whole lot of engine work/mods A success pushing 245 bhp but every so often (well more often than not)) it holds back momentarily and surges back and forth as if it's losing fuel pressure. However it runs fine on the rolling road when the car is stationary So....What is in the tank that could possibly be interrupting the fuel delivery? Something come lose maybe?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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- 12 replies
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Is there a supplier where you can buy the wire clamps individually, or as a set? I think they are 3 and 3 1/2 inch clamps? Mine are all rusted, and can't be cleaned & plated easily. Worm-drive clamps are awful; they strip/slip after you tighten them. OTOH, can you get a complete set f hose clamps for the entire engine? Hose clamp count: 3 or 4- AFM ( 4 if you count the aftermarket cone filter) 4-Radiator 3- Valve cover breather 4- Aux air
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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The clip holding the connector onto the AFM on my '78 rusted and broke off, so I need to get some replacements- 2 or 3. I have it on temporarily; it's a good snug connection and I have the cable secured to the sheetmetal. Is there a good source of the clips, besides a replacement connector kit ($20)? Maybe there is a compatible source from another car that you will find at the JY? I wanted to take the connector off every couple years to clean and check the terminals.
Last reply by Darrel, -
- 1 follower
- 25 replies
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Hi all: First post, so go easy on me. I don't own a Z yet. But I'm going to look at one (a '77 280) that may become available for sale. Current owner says he let the car sit for a couple of years, and the fuel went bad. He drained the tank and refilled with good gas. The car will start, but won't run for long before shutting off. He says it starts right back up and then dies again. He and I discussed, and theorize that there is crud (probably rust) in the tank getting sucked into the tank outlet screen and clogging it. If that theory is right, I assume the tank needs to be cleaned out, and maybe coated to prevent rust. I'm only beginning to learn about…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
After 18 months of father/son restoration, we are finally looking to get this thing running. Took it all the way down to rolling chassis, we rebuilt the engine, rings, bearings, timing sprokets, chains, valve seals. Put it all back together, with new coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, injectors, fuel pump, filter. Car will start, but not fire. Plenty of good spark to each plug. 36 psi fuel pressure to the rail. Used both the factory service manual and fuel injection bible troubleshooting guide. Traced it down to the injectors not receiving signal to fire. However, the cold start valve does. How is this possible? We've worn the battery down, and recharge it, each sessi…
Last reply by Scooter3, -
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- 16 replies
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Ok, I have a megasquirt unit but I am considering using the OEM pieces for cold temp cranking fuel. I already use the AAR for fast idle. I realize this may sound like a head scratcher but I have my reasons. So my question is how would I wire this since I no longer have the stock EFI harness that I could use. What I was thinking is this: Run power from the positive battery post through a relay that closes the circuit only when the starter is engaged which then connects to the thermotime switch. I don't think polarity matters on either the thermotime or cold start injector so then run a wire from the thermotime switch to the cold start injector and from the cold start injec…
Last reply by Adam78, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
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Hey everyone I am having some very real issues finding an afm for my 78 280z. After an exhaustive search, I have the Nissan OEM part number (22680-N4213) finally narrowed down, but finding a replacement for less than $475 is not working. Sadly, most pick n pull places in the Denver area don't advertize having z cars on the lots, so I can't even look there without spending several hours a day for the next several weeks weeding through the garbage... any advice? If anyone has a spare they'd be willing to sell, I'll gladly pay. Dave
Last reply by Consigli, -
- 4 followers
- 45 replies
- 7.7k views
I've got a 76 z with the EFI. When I break open the fuel line just above the fuel filter for example (with the car off of course) there isn't any pressure in the fuel line and when starting it takes a while because I think it has to build up pressure again. I've recently put a new fuel pump on it and fuel pressure regulator. I did get rid of the fuel damper since it was the original and I don't think it was working and they aren't available any more. The engine does seem to run well, and smooth once started and warmed up. So my question is, what component is responsible for maintaining the fuel line pressure when the car is off? It's like somehow the fuel drains back …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 5.9k views
When I had the intake manifold off for polishing, I noticed there was a layer of black stuff (oil vapor/carbon from the rocker box) inside, so I tried to clean that out too. I tried Gunk Foamy, and several cans of carbureter spray. From the brown liquid that came out, I concluded that some of the black stuff came off, but when you looked in the throttle hole, you could still see it was there. I even tried a treatment of Seafoam, which is typically for carbon deposites on the valves and cylinder head, but this stuff was stubborn. Is there any other way to get the carbon out of the intake manifold, besides taking it off and using some kind of industrial treatrment? th…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 6 replies
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Does the direction of flow through the regulator matter? I ask because I have a aftermarket fuel rail (bar stock style) with an aeromotive FPR and I am going to replace the fuel lines as well as put the stock regulator back (I'm hunting for a leak). Of course, I'll have to mount it somewhere since I don't have the original fuel rail and therefore I can't remember which way is the inlet and outlet for the regulator. Thanks :-)
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 11 replies
- 5.1k views
I have a early 76 280Z (8/75) that I do not have a correct ECU for. I could not find a compatibility chart for the the correct ECU for a early 76. The AFM in the car is a A31-060-001. I spoke to MSA but they could not tell me what the correct ECU was for my car. Additionally the car has California emissions. Thanks in advance
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
If you wanted to hook up your engine & sensors to a electronic or computerized data logging system, would it be possible? Most of it is just resistance, but I'm wondering if tapping into the sensor might other the ECU to change its outputs. I would probably be interested in recording: Coolant temperature (resistance) air temperature (resistance) AFM (resistance) RPM (12V pulses) fuel injectors (12V pulses) I suppose there are some electronic data collectors all ready to use? I would probably use the data collection while the car is parked. thxZ
Last reply by Chickenman,
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