Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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Hi guys, I just purchased an air/fuel mixture gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3VGPYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and was wondering where to find the number the car should read when driving/idle. Has anyone done this before? The FSM shows fuel percentages but that isn't readable on these gauges it seems. -chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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Ok, I have a 71 240 that I'm converting EFI. This means using an EFI fuel pump. My usual MO here is to retro-fit an in-tank pump. Quiet, secure, self filtering, blah blah blah. Done it to my old 73 years ago and to a couple of my 510's since. Easy peasy as they say. Well the 510's are easy. Lots of room above the tank. Not so much on Z's. If you want to mount the pump in the top of the tank, there is no or very little room between the floor and tank top, and you have to cut a wee hole in your deck then come up with a way to cover it. Then put up with a lump back there for ever more. Not perfect. Well until Vintage Tanks just announced a new product. ht…
Last reply by zKars, -
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Hi guys, quick question. Rockauto seems to have reman 5-pin AFMs in stock where the Canada spec one is half the price of the federal emissions (guessing that means USA) spec version. Anyone know what is the mechanical difference between these?
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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Hey guys! I am away from the car at the moment and I wonder if anyone knows the throttle body bolt spacing for the N42 intake manifold on the 76 280Z. I am looking at an aftermarket 70mm throttle body with 65mm bolt spacing. I seem to remember the stock throttle body was 60mm...? Can anyone help? @Captain Obvious perhaps? Thanks!
Last reply by wheee!, -
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I made a start on redoing the fuel lines. I used sleeved 10mm nitrile line with quick-connect fittings. The ends are clamped to the hard lines, and are not intended to be removed moving forward. The quick connect fittings allow you to disconnect the rail from the feed & return. Did the return first. Rerouted behind the filter to get it away from the motor. Support bracket previously attached to the filter clamp is now secured it at the inner fender QC fittings for the (Volvo application, Mahle KL 196) filter needed a longer M5 bolt while I was there I added a branch to allow me to add the fuel pressure gauge (M10x1 …
Last reply by darom, -
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Hi guys, I am looking for your advice before I open my AFM unit and start messing with it. Symptoms: when the car is cold, it runs very lean, bogs down, popping noises, lack of power. When it warms up, more manageable to drive, although it occasionally makes the same popping noises. it also smells lean from the exhaust. What has been done: 1. Remanufactured AFM, sealed up. Adjustments to the air bypass screw don't help richen up the mixture. 2. I went through all the FI Book tests, the air temp sensor in the AFM/water temp sensor in the t-housing, all pass. Cold and warmed up. 3. Throttle positive switch - adjusted, at idle, middle position a…
Last reply by darom, -
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I might as well post this up. I just got back from a long drive, with several stops, and not a sign of the heat soak problem. I've made several changes but I think this would be easy for anyone to do, with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as backup for any tuning, rich or lean, that needs to be done. Since it's only me for now though, the risk is there that I just got lucky. Hopefully it's real, I don't want to cause anyone to waste time or money. I’ve been running more modern injectors (1989) for five days now, and they seem to be immune to the heat soak problem. Or the overall modified fuel system is. I’m using 14 mm injectors, Bosch 280 150 901, with the inj…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Before I start here this is what I've done so far to my 1977 Federal 280z EFI: All EFI Bible troubleshooting-- Everything tests normal Smoke test-- no vacuum leaks, engine is a steady 16 or so on the vacuum gauge at idle Fuel pressure with vacuum line off regulator is 32-34 psi (my gauge isn't super precise) Timing at 10 BTC Compression 150 psi across all six cylinders New fuel injectors and fuel filters (I have an additional inline filter before the fuel pump) Generally, the car runs great. I have a wide band oxygen sensor and display hooked up and right now the idle is right at 13.5 AFR. At any throttle opening above 20% under heavy ac…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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So, now that the ambient temps have dropped, I see that the cold start system is not actually operational. When I rewired the EFI harness I found the ECT & TTS were mis-wired. I don't know if that caused an issue at the ECU. In any event, I bridged the TTS connector, and have voltage output from the EFI relay 86 terminal to the cold start valve when cranking (checked with test lamp on pin 86 at relay, and 45 at CSV.) I confirmed the CSV functions by powering & grounding the CSV to the battery with the fuel system pressurized. The CSV does not inject fuel however, and if I put the test light across the pins of the connector, it does not lig…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Whilst I've been adding wiring for my AC install, I've also been wiring the Bosch CIS. It was used on Volvos in the mid 80's with K-JET. V6 version - has correct ECU with 6 cyl ignition pulse. (B) Benzine 2.8l (F) Fuel Injection my wiring Bosch 0280 220 008 - Leerlaufregler = Idle Control combined wiring harnesses for AC & CIS module will be tucked up in right corner removed the throttle body. Made it easier to access the water housing to redrill & add a 12x1.5mm Timesert for the ECT Lots of grease on the drill & tap, picks up the shavings ECT 0280 130 028 (VO 1…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 3 followers
- 18 replies
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I have not seen a fix for the OEM vapor canister on the 280z posted. I found a way with new parts to still use the OEM one and have it functional. Back ground, I have a 77 and have been chasing running issues. I was focused on vacuum leaks due the a poor idle and erratic performance. I found the vapor canister as culprit because it never closed the purge line at idle and caused a large vacuum leak. I wanted to keep the canister to not have gas venting from the tank when sitting. Check out this video on the canister for knowledge and how to test: The vacuum leak was from the line labeled "purge" - since that goes into the intake and the sto…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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I got reinterested in a thought I've had before about finding a way to use a more available FPR on the 280Z fuel rails, since the stock PFR's are becoming scarce. I just looked on Rockauto and they don't even list FPR's as an option, not even an out-of-stock listing. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air I browsed around Rockauto and realized that the 2.5 bar (36.3 psi) pressure spec. was only around for a few years. Then they went to 3.0 bar, or some odd spec like Ford used of 2.7 bar (why Ford, why?). But I found a Bosch listing and cross-ref'ed it to Rockauto. I don't have my tools available or I might try…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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