Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.9k views
The winter fuel formula in California is causing vapor lock. This only happens when the winter grade comes out in California. What would anyone recommend as an additive to decrease the volatility.
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
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- 22 replies
- 2.1k views
Hi all, I was driving home in my '78 280, and I smelled the strong scent of raw gas at a light. I drove a few blocks home and parked the car, and I sniffed the hood vents -- raw gas. I popped the hood and looked around. I could find no leaks anywhere, visually. However, I could smell raw gas fumes in the column of hot air rising up around the front of the engine. The strongest smell was just next to the oil filler cap over the #1 injector (forward extend of the intake manifold, just above the forward tip of the heat shield between intake and exhaust. Some of the intake manifold webbing looked slightly "wet," but it appeared to be oil seepage from the valve cover…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 23 replies
- 14.1k views
Hi all, I notice when I let off of the gas that the engine RPMs plummet as the throttle slams shut. It's not a serious problem, but it's still a bit inelegant and ill mannered. I realize the job of the dashpot is to ease the slamming shut and possibly prevent the momentary dip in RPM below the normal idle set point. I remember when I was much younger and owned an 8 year old '75 Z. I refurbed and adjusted the dashpot and apparently kept it. However, I can't remember whether it really did anything or whether it was somewhat of a "rhubarb" (useless part) that I never bothered to remove and toss in the trash. So... Question to all you old-timers who remember these machin…
Last reply by Jorgesan, -
So in the process of converting to a custom fuel rail and changing out injectors, I was changing my fuel filter. When I got the filter loose it was rattling around and I am thinking crap, this might be the culprit of some of the fuel issues that I have been having for fricken forever. So I cut it open only to find out a small Chump-Azz filter that had come loose from the fitting. I believe that this was a Fram, but I am not certain. What pisses me off is that I don't go cheap on this kind of stuff - it is worth it to spend the $$ on good filters. Every one of you is familiar with the Z's fist size filter and you might think that surely it is stuffed full of pleated …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
OK, I have posted on this issue a few times and thought I would start one last thread. I have my 76 in the shop and trying to give the mechanic some suggestions based on your input. I hated to take it to him but I needed a little better look than I was capable of giving the car. Just about every other time I drive the car,which has not been very often (10 times in a year), it stops on me. I initially thought it was a gas delivery problem; however, after installing a pressure gauge, I believe it is more likely loosing spark. A couple days ago I went for a 30 mile drive and after about 28 miles the car shut down. The pressure gauge was reading 33-34 psi. It would not r…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 7 replies
- 1.3k views
Anyone have an AFM they are willing to sell? I'm in need of one for my 77. I don't want to buy one of those expensive rebuilt ones. Haven't had good luck in the past with them. And besides I want to keep the one I have and rebuild myself some day. It is the original one with the anti back fire valve built into the flap.
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
Ok, here is the puzzle of the day. 1978 280Z, Daily driver In the last 2 weeks or so, I have gotten a starting issue. Car will fire up and then immediately die. This is not the 'very hot engine sitting with the hood closed vapor lock' issue. This can be at any time or temperature of the day(Texas). Things Checked:Coil,plugs, plug gap, spark from plug wires, fuel flow, fuel filter replaced, AFM 'fingered'. Car runs fine at all speeds and idle otherwise. My question is that this problem seems to be remedied by opening the gas cap after the start failure. If we open the cap, and crank, the engine can start. My thought is that a suction is created at the first start failure,…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 10 replies
- 2.5k views
Before everyone burns me up about using the search feature, I promise you that was the first thing I did. I used several posts to help me search through and check the connections at fuel pump, tank, expansion tank, filter, fuel rail and everything in between. All connections are tight, no hoses are ripped or failing, and there's no evidence of any gas leaking anywhere. So why is there such a crucial raw gas smell while driving? It only happens when the car is driving and typically at decelleration. Doesn't have to be after a hard accelleration, but take your foot off the gas and the cabin becomes full of fuel smell. I can't smell it at any other time. I can't get the car …
Last reply by txvepr, -
- 3 replies
- 1.8k views
The car has been running really well, but just recently I've been having a strange hesitation at WOT above 4K where it kinda feels like a rev limiter is cutting in. Turns out I was having a fuel starvation issue due to a pre-pump filter that was packed with crud. It was flowing enough to run at moderate throttle, but couldn't supply enough for peak demand. My tank isn't horrible, but clearly there's some rust in there - I swapped out the big one up front, and installed the pre-pump filter when I first got the car. I replace this little guy every couple of months (clearly not frequently enough!) I was also began having starting issues - both times the car was on a severe…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 8 replies
- 1.3k views
Saw this Cardone page from Rockauto and thought it was interesting. Resoldering and a test, and some identified common wear components replaced. Wonder what they are. Product Detail
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 12 replies
- 3.4k views
OK has anyone else seen this? I bought a 77 280z that someone had already started a rebuild so I have no reference on how things 'used to be'. I'm starting reassembly and can't figure out how the cold start valve attaches to the fuel rail. This fuel rail is solid piping except where the regulator assembly mounts. I have two other z's to compare to and neither have this configuration. Ideas? I'm stuck.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 14 replies
- 2.9k views
been driving for about 300 miles on the new head/cam and have been trying to hold my judgment until things wear in, but she's just not at 100%. what's been done: re-built head set valve lash at install, then hot adjust after an hour or so of run time set timing to 35 degrees max with no vacuum advance (seems to get best result so far) all new injectors - nos oem new CSV all new sensors at the thermostat housing checked/cleaned all bullet connectors from sensors checked/cleaned ground connections all new connectors at all injectors + cold start manifold cleaned out, new gaskets egr system removed, manifold sealed off 6-1 header k&n cold air…
Last reply by siteunseen,
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