Fuel Injection

I found this on walmart.com for $20 bucks. I'm going to get one. I don't care about radios just want some gauges to look at.

Just beginning to resurrect the rear portion of the fuel system. Working with the great info from this site on the fuel damper. Hopefully we will track one down. Is the OEM pump the way to go for a stock EFI engine or will an aftermarket unit do the job? Huge price differences. O'Reilly offers their IMPORT DIRECT brand that appears similar in size and design with correct size inlet and outlet sizes and 2 terminals. Most of the other aftermarket units seem to be "CAN MAKE IT FIT" varieties with several fittings, rubber cushions, etc. Would it be wise to install a fuel filter between the tank and pump? Any suggestions on an inline filter with 1/2" barbs? What is th…

I think I have narrowed down my faulty cold idle problem with your help and the FSM to a erroneous Air Regulator Valve, but finding a replacement is proving much the task. Every where I look I'm met with "No longer available". . . "Part Discontinued" . . . "Used, Maybe good, Maybe no good". So I thought that perhaps these air regulator valves might be rebuildable ? If so, does anyone know about this, or have you gotten one rebuilt ? If so, by whom and how, and where ? This Nissan #22660-N4210 is an elusive part to find, any help is apricated. 🤥

Do you have to release the fuel pressure in order to replace the "O" ring seals for the fuel injectors? Thanks!

been driving for about 300 miles on the new head/cam and have been trying to hold my judgment until things wear in, but she's just not at 100%. what's been done: re-built head set valve lash at install, then hot adjust after an hour or so of run time set timing to 35 degrees max with no vacuum advance (seems to get best result so far) all new injectors - nos oem new CSV all new sensors at the thermostat housing checked/cleaned all bullet connectors from sensors checked/cleaned ground connections all new connectors at all injectors + cold start manifold cleaned out, new gaskets egr system removed, manifold sealed off 6-1 header k&n cold air…

First, Hello to all.. This is my first post and I'm a new member! I've been looking for a new 1977 280z Fuel tank and fuel gauge sender. Can anyone help me out?

Can anyone tell me where I can find info regarding the altitude switch in the California model 280z? Nissan shows it in section EC of the FSM but with no info. I found something in section EF with very little info. Iv'e gathered it is there to lower the amount of fuel injected to decrease wear of the emission components. But only by 6%, really? Does this really affect emissions that much? Does it really have that much of an effect on our cars equipped with it? Thanks

Last night I changed out the fuel pump on my '75 280z. I pulled off the hose from the fuel filter to make sure it was pumping fuel. Yep, it works. Now, I re-connected everything and tried to start the car. It caught a few times... but, it died immediately. After a few shots at this and many minutes of cranking.. I gave up. However, I noticed that a few of my fuel hoses were bulging and one of them was even split. It was shooting a fine mist of fuel!!! Anyway, there's something obviously wrong here. The system is plugged and I don't know if this is a sign of bad injectors or not. I took all of the injectors out of the car and I will be replacing them. So, my questio…

I disabled my cold start injector a little while ago by pulling off the electrical connector. Just to see how the car would perform on cold starts without it, and decide if I really needed it or if I could do without. I've not used the car much since I disabled it, but the results are not that dramatic. The cranking times when "Pennsylvania cold" are definitely longer than with it connected, but they are not "objectionable". I'm assuming that if I were in Canada or Wisconsin, I wouldn't be able to get away with this, but here in PA it seems to be OK without. This is a fair weather car for me anyway and I don't expect it will get a lot of winter usage. I'm thinking I may r…

Hey Guys, I hate having to post in the fuel injection section of this forum, because I hate EFI issues, but here we go. I will try to be as detailed as possible. As you know I have had some EFI issues in the past, but I got them all sorted out about a month or two ago and my car was running near perfect. In the past two weeks I have been having an issue where the car will either surge at idle, buck hard under part throttle or hit essentially a rev limiter. Happens damn near randomly, except it has definetly been getting worse over the past few days to the point where it is undriveable as of this morning. I first noticed it about two …

Hello all, This is my first post on this site. I am having some issues with my Z. How do I even begin to explain...! Main Question(regarding my Thread title): I may have to order a new AFM, after talking to MSA there are many... I have A31-625000 which is a 4 bolt (apparently more rare) and are almost never instock. Z CarSource asked me if it was 7 pin or 5 and I verified that it was 7 pin. But here is the funny part: 7Pin on the AFM and on the harness there are only 5 actual female connectors! What the heck! Inside the AFM is a working fuel cutoff switch. I ran though the AFM tests for the pins and everything seems to check out... I really dont want to mess aro…

Well i finally got my water-cooled Z31 turbo in the mail!! Yay!! Anyway.. I needed to re-clock the turbo, because the intake outlet of the turbo was pointing straight up, so I re-clocked it, and I have to find a good place to bolt the waste-gate actuator on.. so I got an L-Bracket for that. I realize I may have to get a new down-pipe since the 300ZX downpipe won't fit..... but here are the pics... I DO have a question though.. how the heck do I bolt up my coolant lines to that bolt?? It's a hollow bolt with holes as shown in the picture... what kind of fitting do I use? (I searched for hours and hours and never found any good reference pics of the oil inlet and o…