Fuel Injection

I bought a 78 280z last week and the owner claimed that the fuel injectors were leaking. So I replaced the injectors and fired up the engine. I noticed a change in power but the engine was still sputtering. Every so often it made a loud popping noise and spit out black stuff from the exhaust. So i thought perhaps it wasn't burning the fuel. I also examined all the spark plugs and found that they were all jet black with soot all over them. After that, the car wouldn't start again. So I gave up and started changing out the headlights.To my surprise the old ones didn't have a bulb. When i tried to turn on the headlights nothing happened. My question is this, based on all o…

I have a fuel injected 78 280z with a performance cam. It starts and runs great, and accelerates and cruises smoothly while cold. But after it warms up a bit the throttle is jerky. When making very tiny changes to the gas peddle (just to maintain speed), the throttle jerks on and off. Its great while accelerating or decelerating but just doesn't maintain a steady cruising speed without jerking in and out. This is very obvious at 50 mph or less but doesn't seem as pronounced at highway speeds. Maybe a Throttle Position Sensor? Air Flow Meter? Vacuum Leak?

hey guys, just got me a Z (83 280zx) its rough, but i love it and its rebuildable. anywho, i went to my local scrap yard and raped a z for all i could get at one time. i noticed that the previous owner of my Z removed the fuel injector cooler. the Z i found had it so i took it and all the hardware...just wondering how crucial is that part? -carlo

Ok i have a 1977 280z FI it will work one day and completly die the next. It wont even start with starting fluid. It has plenty of spark, fuel, air. I have no idea what to do help please.

Hi guys, two years ago when i purchased my ZX i replaced the fuel pump, and apparently it was overpressured so i rebuilt the old one and installed it back. The old one worked for a while but it’s broken again, and I had to fit the new one again and made a long road trip in this mountainous country, after two hours the smell of gas coming out from the pump area was too bad and the car started to failed until it shut down, I waited for a half hour and then the car started and it ran fine. This happened twice, I don´t know what to do, the fuel pump is 95 psi but the pressure on the fuel rail is 36 as it should be so the FPR is fine, maybe the fuel pump pushes too hard an…

After 20+ years of sitting, got the z running last summer. After driving a few times, the car began cutting/stalling when giving it a heavy throttle press while driving. The cutting has no relation to speed or rpm, but more the load/stress the engine is under (acceleration/hills). Last fall, we found the car would drop about 10 psi of fuel pressure before cutting out. After this past winter, we have started by replacing all of the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the engine, along with replacing the fuel filter. We cut open the filter and did not find any noticeable contaminants. We had one more successful small drive where we could really get on it, only for a s…

Does anyone know if they sell pigtail connectors for all the efi system? My AFM, TTS, Coolant temp, FIDLE all have connectors that are broken in some way. they still work, but can fall off. I looked around, but could not find any new.

A while ago, I was looking into an issue where my idle would hang a little because the throttle body butterfly would not always return to fully closed. The puzzling part is that it always closed just fine with the engine off and it only got sticky when manifold vacuum was present with the engine running. Reference old thread about it, but that old thread never really got to the bottom of it: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45152-sticky-throttle-body-hanging-idle/#comment-409180 My solution at the time was to simply add an extra turn to the throttle body return spring and that extra spring force overcame whatever was causing the stick. Worked, but not really the rig…

I have a '72 240Z with a Rebello engine, TWM EFI/etc, and a '76 fuel tank and pump. But the fuel gauge (not unexpectedly) doesn't show accurate fuel levels. That is the gauge indicates less fuel than actual, and never points higher than about 3/4 with an actual full tank of gas. Short of replacing the gauge with a '76, might there be an electrical component I could install to correct the signal sent from the sender unit to the gauge?

I have a donor 280z that I recieved for free, and I would like to transfer the fuel inj. system to my L28 240. The thing is that it has sat for 8 years. I just need to know what all to pull from the 280 and what to clean it with. I'd assume carb cleaner in the AFM and fuel rails. Can you clean the injectors? Also, what exactly do I need to pull from the 280? What I hope to end up with in the near future is a 240z turbo. Thanks, Brian S.

75 280z manual Fuel Injectors Pulsating Too Fast and Flooding Engine Fuel pressure is 30-35 (appropriate) When fuel line is clamped off, engine will run til existing gas is depleted. However, when fuel is allowed to be injected at the rate the injectors are pulsating, it floods the engine. ECU?

This has happened twice to me so far so I expect it again. Happens during warm up or right after full temp is reached, will just die DEAD!!! cranck and crank no start, if pedal pumped or held to floor it will jump or stumble or try to start but nothing. let it set for 5 or 10 mins starts right up and no other problems, has happend like 2 weeks apart. dont have all the details of this motor/fi / mods but what I know is msd 6al, stock lookings everthing blaster2 coil, fusable link to maxi fuse upgrade, couple of emission things remove from manifold.Electric cooling fan, no a/c components! have a fuel press gauge installed right after the filter in eng comp piped into the in…