Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
I have been replacing 38 yr old fuel lines and now have an annoying problem. I can now hear my fuel pump whine fairly loudly when the engine is started. Like you can hear it over the idle of the engine. What happened: I pulled the stinky supply line from the gas tank to the fuel pump. It appeared to me that the fuel pump inlet was a 1/2'', since my 5/16 line would not fit it and a 1/2 inch would. So I assumed it to be 1/2. Was this old line 2 sizes originally? Got some fuel rated 1/2 line from the Truck supply house since AZ and OR didn't carry that large of lines in stock. Put it on and now I hear the whine . Could this be from a larger fuel line capacity? Or a coinci…
Last reply by txvepr, -
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- 67 replies
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I'm pretty sure mine is toasted. I'm going to a junkyard that has 3 old Z's and want to know if I know how to check if they're good. Does the whole thing turn, electrical connector and all? Or does the connector stay and the 1/2" x 2" long metal strip with the wires wrapped around it turn by itself? I put the metal strip in a vise and it won't budge. Put 12 volts to it for at least 5 minutes and still no movement. The only way I see it could turn is where the connection slides in the housing. So if I find one that the electrical connection turns slightly to the right while in the housing would that mean it's probably good? Sorry for any confusion, I'm not too good…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 36 replies
- 12.1k views
The check valve on my fuel pump doesn't hold. As soon as the pump stops, my pressure drops off. I'm thinking I could fix the one in the pump, or I could bail and switch to a stand alone check valve up in the engine compartment. I'm thinking that would make future repair/replace easier if I ever have to mess with it again. So, anyone got a reason why I shouldn't do that? Is there some reason that a check valve built into the pump is a better idea? Anyone got recommendations for a stand alone check valve they've used with good results?
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 30 replies
- 3.1k views
OK, so I've built the corrector box (refer to the attached schematic) and when you plug it in series with the Coolant sensor, it works as you'd expect. You can even tell that the engine runs (or sounds) differently as you fool with the switch and potentiometer. Be mindful that this device is intended to be used to see how much your ECU electronics may have drifted over the years. So should you be using a sniffer to find out if, and how much drift there is, or how you otherwise determine that? I suppose you could use the old seat-of-the-pants method, but since that is so imprecise, any adjustments you'd make would probably be hit-or-miss. "Disclaimer" Also, pleas…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 9 replies
- 1.8k views
check valve between gas tank and emissions, does anyone know where to find one, thanks James, zdonka@yahoo.com
Last reply by zdonka, -
- 12 replies
- 5.4k views
Anyone got a recommendation for a good replacement PCV hose? (The one that runs from the front of the block under the intake manifold to the PCV valve.) Does anyone make this in silicone?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 replies
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Sorry about the pic rotating 90 degrees CC Hello, I attached a picture of 4 sensors just below the thermostat housing of a 75 280z. 1) please correct me if I'm wrong but the one I labeled with the gold tape is the thermotime. The one I labeled with the green tape is the water temp sensor? 2) What sensor is the white tape on? 3) What sensor us the yellow tape on? Thank you, Robert
Last reply by rsperegrin1, -
- 3 replies
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Hello, Noticed the harness to the TV SW disconnected when I bought the car, not running, 2 weeks ago. Started following the SM section EF "Engine will not start." I received no continuity between 2 & 18 (idle) and 3 & 18 (full switch). The harness to SW connection is not tight and both male and female connectors are mildly corroded. 1) I don't understand what the SM means when it says to "Check the circuit indicated by large solid lines in Fig XX." What do you check? 2) Do I replace the harness to get a new female connector? If so where do I get one? 3) Do I replace the TV SW? If so where do I get one? Thanks Robert
Last reply by rsperegrin1, -
Fuel pressure 1 2
by bhermes- 14 replies
- 2.3k views
A quick update. I have been having issues with my 76 280z leaving me stranded on the road about once a week. I suspected that I may have rust in my gas tank causing the issue. Initially confirmed by seeing brown specs in my fuel filter and confirmed after dropping my tank. I cleaned and re-coated my tank with red-Kote and re-installed. I replaced the fuel filter but did not replace my fuel pump. It was recently replaced and thought I may be able to save it. I hooked up a gauge after the filter and reading about 28psi pressure at idle and pretty consistent when I rev the engine. Also checked in gear but not yet during actual driving. I know there are a few posts bu…
Last reply by bhermes, -
- 11 replies
- 2.7k views
Hey guys, I am working on a side hobby of rebuilding old fuel injection harnesses and nearly have one done, but was wondering what are the differences (besides how some have spliced the Thermotime Switch and Cold Start Valve together, have a 2/75 harness that butt connectored them, and an unknown that I have about done that tied them in at the Cold Start connectors) between year models are?
Last reply by pakmule87, -
- 17 replies
- 5.7k views
After absorbing all of the ideas on where the heat soak problem originates, I decided to try the most direct solution I could fabricate and blow air directly on to the injector bodies. I have a ZX fuel system blower fan and ductwork from a ZX motor I had bought in the past but didn't want to use the bulky ductwork or the thermal switch (which doesn't seem to be effective on the ZX's anyway). So I bought a bathroom fan timer from Home Depot to control the fan (one hour range), and went to the wrecking yard and scavenged two 18" pieces of pre-heat tubing from a couple of 80s-90s Chevy S10 exhaust systems ($3). Taped the two pieces of tubing together, cut 6 holes in it ov…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
1976 280Z I removed my tank and had it cleaned. Before reinstalling it, I ran a line into a clean can of gas, and to the fuel pump. The pump is pumping, And the car fires on ether, but will not stay running. How can I test to see if the fuel is getting to the fuel injectors? Thanks
Last reply by FastWoman,
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