Fuel Injection

I just had my tank media blasted, boiled, and sealed. While doing so I delivered a Competition Engineering sump to be installed as a part of my fuel system upgrade. When I got it back, instead of drilling out three - five holes in the floor of the tank and welding in the sump, they cut out the bottom of the tank the size of the while sump. As a result the sump is now not baffled. I don't like it and am not happy with it but the vendor basically said, "Too bad unless you want to pay us to fix it." I took my tank and left. I have a real concern about the sump not being baffled properly and in low fuel situations allowing for fuel starvation. Am I right to be concerned or am…

I'm planning on adding a Crane Hi-6S Inductive ignition box to my 1976 Datsun 280z. It has the twin pickup coil Federal Model dizzy. I've chosen the Crane inductive box for specific reasons and have been well pleased with the HI-6 CD version on other cars. Question is about install. Where specifically does the ECU get the injector Timing signal from? Is it from the negative terminal on the coil or from the Magnetic trigger in the dizzy? Has any one done an install of the Crane H-6S ( Multi-Spark inductive ignition ) on an FI 280Z and have any installation tips? TIA.

My son's '77 Z is FINALLY on the road after getting new injectors, cleaning gas tank, new plugs/wires/cap/rotor, setting timing. NOW I'm needing some guidance on getting the FUEL/AIR mixture settings correct. Is there an "order" to setting the adjustable screws? Also, how do I set them? (screw with spring on the top of the throttle body. screw on the lower side of the mass air-flow meter. any others?) As it is set now the car doesn't have much umph, even though I have good compression, am running NGK-5 spark plugs, etc. Just want to be sure I'm setting the items that I have control over. Thanks for any assistance. Mark Charlotte, NC

Hey guys, I've got a 78 280z that won't start. I think I've narrowed it down to the ECU but I'm not positive. I've read through the manual thing but FI is something I've never touched before, always had carbs. Basically the power relay is clicking, the air regulator has power, the injectors fluctuate a little with a voltmeter on it, but only a couple of volts. I tried the injector sound test with a screwdriver and that doesn't seem to give me anything. The pressure regulator doesn't buzz like it said it should in the manual, but I have no idea why it would buzz at it doesn't have any power running to it. I know the fuel pump works, it has a manual switch and you can hear …

Should fuel flow from my gas tank if the fuel line (inlet and outlet) is removed from the tank. I think my tank is stopped up but I'm not sure. The car appears to not be getting fuel. Stupid question but I'm trying to cover all my bases before I sink money into this project. Any suggestions on getting a tank unclogged?

Hi Gang, 1977 280Z with roughly 130.000 miles. Ran beautifully for the first year of ownership - sat over the winter -wasn't properly winterized - new battery and fresh gas in the following spring, and Voila.................... no start:mad: Spins real strong, but no start. If I spray "engine start" directly into the MAF, she starts and runs as long as my finger is on the spray nozzle. Once I stop spraying, she shuts off moments later. My prognosis: there's no fuel reaching the injectors, so I assumed the fuel pump was bad:ermm: I own a 1994 Acura Legend that had a similar "no start" issue but the problem turned out to be the fuel pump main relay. The solder dry’s & c…

I used 1/2 gallon of muratic acid mixed with 1/2 gallon of water and swished around for about 10 minutes then drained and put 1 box baking soda mixed together with 2 gallons of hot water and swished around then drained. Used a leaf blower to dry up the inside then poured in a quart of acetone and swished and shook for a few minutes then hit it with the leaf blower and an air hose. Poured in a quart of Red Kote and rolled all around and still drained out almost a half of the quart. I'll definitely apply a second coat in a day or so. Worked great and was alot easier than I was expecting.

Before everyone burns me up about using the search feature, I promise you that was the first thing I did. I used several posts to help me search through and check the connections at fuel pump, tank, expansion tank, filter, fuel rail and everything in between. All connections are tight, no hoses are ripped or failing, and there's no evidence of any gas leaking anywhere. So why is there such a crucial raw gas smell while driving? It only happens when the car is driving and typically at decelleration. Doesn't have to be after a hard accelleration, but take your foot off the gas and the cabin becomes full of fuel smell. I can't smell it at any other time. I can't get the car …

I have a 1971 240z and i want to know how hard it is to put in a fuel injection system or how long would it take?

I have heard stories about sticky AFM's in the past, but I have never held one in my own two hands. Until now. So I've got this AFM here that has a binding sticky spot right in the middle of it's travel. I have looked it over very carefully and cannot see any visible explanation for the sticky spot. I'm thinking maybe the damper section of the vane may be making contact up in the belfry area, or the main shaft may be bent. At this point, I'm toying with the prospect of taking the back cover off. I remember some discussion about doing this in the past, but don't remember if anyone has actually gone through with it. Has anyone taken this back side cover off? …

Getting ready to soak 2 of my fuel injectors that appear to be clogged. I was planning on soaking them with seafoam. I just read a post that said never to soak them in any kind of cleaner because the coil I’ll get damaged. Thoughts/Comments.

I recently posted in my reliability update the my brake booster was leaking. Once it gets bad, its easy to diagnose: A sucking sound in the cabin when brakes are applied along with hard braking and engine surge during braking. Long story short: All of this goes away once the brake booster is replaced and everything is properly re-attached. Early Warning Signs What I didn't realize is that my Z was telling me for a few weeks that the brake booster was going bad. It did this with an occasional engine surge at idle (it would only go down to maybe 1500 rpm's at a stop light). When this happened though, I would give the throttle a quick kick and it would get back to norm…