Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
-
- 20 replies
- 20.5k views
New on fuel system: - Fuel Hoses - Vapor Hoses - Pressure Regulator - Fuel Pump - Clean tank - Rebuilt injectors Vacuum is 19. When driving the car, the fuel pressure will increase to 36 psi at full throttle. It is 28 psi when idling and sounds like it's running lean. Pinching the return fuel hose to the tank increases the fuel pressure to 52 psi. Removing the vacuum hose to the Pressure Regulator ups the pressure to 36 psi. Also ran the car out of a gallon gas tank and still 28 psi idle. Factory Service Manual says it should be 36 psi. Any ideas on getting it to 36 psi? Thanks.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
-
- 2 replies
- 3k views
Can anyone tell me where I can find info regarding the altitude switch in the California model 280z? Nissan shows it in section EC of the FSM but with no info. I found something in section EF with very little info. Iv'e gathered it is there to lower the amount of fuel injected to decrease wear of the emission components. But only by 6%, really? Does this really affect emissions that much? Does it really have that much of an effect on our cars equipped with it? Thanks
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 0 replies
- 2.2k views
Don't know if this is old news or not, but I've turned up a mistake in the pre-78 service manuals pertaining to the resistance readings from the air and water temperature sensors (Pages EF-52+53 for 1976 and Pages EF-53+54 for 1977). Similar mistakes are in the FI "Bible" as well. Apparently there was some difficulty translating from degreesC to degreesF. Add a language translation to that, as well as a positive to negative conversion complication, and you've got issues. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ To start, here's the 78 air temp sensor chart as a reference. The math works out as do the thermister resistances: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 16 replies
- 4.6k views
Sometimes when I come to a stop, my idle hangs up and will not return to the correct RPM. Just started like two weeks ago. I know it's got nothing to do with the linkage or the dashpot, because I removed both of them and it was still sticky. I also know that it's not sticky goop inside the throttle body. It's clean. It's not sticky all the time, but when it gets that way, I can feel that the throttle shaft is a little more difficult to turn than "normal". Due to the fact that this is a recent development (now that it has gotten colder), my first thought was that maybe my throttle body was icing up. But heres the thing... I can shut the engine off while the throttle is stu…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 8 replies
- 2.4k views
I found this neat page about building your own meter. It uses dual LM3915s for extra resolution, but your are on your own to make one- no PC board is available, unless someone wants to draw one up. Also, you get to chose your own sensor. The only odd thing is the way it's calibrated and how you read it, but it looks like it could be useful. Pelican Technical Article: Building an In-Dash Air-Fuel Monitor
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 19 replies
- 3.3k views
Hi, maybe I can get a bit of additional insight into my issue 75 280z, stock EFI. Starts up wonderfully from cold. I can turn the car off, and start up again within about five minutes, and it's fine If I leave the car to sit for about 10 - 15 minutes, then it will start up, and run extremely roughly for a couple minutes, occasionally dying, before evening out eventually. It seems like if I move the AFM wiper slightly counter-clockwise, the situation alleviates somewhat, which indicates that adding fuel is helping. I would think that that would point away from any issues like a weeping injector, bad thermocline valve keeping my csi open too long, etc.... I'm sort of …
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 16 replies
- 8.2k views
I've bought a cheap universal off ebay but it, like others, leaks down after awhile. I've read Zed Head say that the Aeromotive Tech guys said theirs does it too and Wade Nelson put a check valve in the line before the fuel rail on his. I've found a retired Nissan mechanic that's getting mine fine tuned now that he's put that adjustable FPR on. So if my new Bosch pump has a check valve in the pump wouldn't I want another in the return line? I have brand new injectors so I hope they're not the cause. Or has someone found one that doesn't leak down? I need more pressure because of the larger fuel rail and some other things I did. And probably the drift? in the ECU Fa…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
hey all. i had a random day off from work yesterday and i decided to fix the fuel leak around the injectors that leaks when the car is cold. i guess when the car heats up the rubber expands and solves the leak. the most consistent leak was at the bottom of my #2 injector, where the metal cup and the green plastic meet. the other two leaks were along the fuel rail. all injectors were clicking. i was going to town when i got stomped. a couple of the screws on the injectors are either galled or really tight. the bottom ones are really tough to get to and i found a broken retainer, looks like its plastic?. i thought maybe i could just cut the hoses and take the rail out firs…
Last reply by no.never, -
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
Anybody know what the rating is for the fusible link on the fuel injection harness is rated for?
Last reply by pakmule87, -
- 6 replies
- 6.3k views
I'm planning on using this in my 280z. The car is fitted with SDS fuel injection management, stock injectors, stock cam, stock 280Z intake & exhaust manifolds, stock exhaust (no cat). I'm hoping that I will notice some difference in power, but I know gains will likely be marginal due to the restrictive stock equipment and non-modified intake & cylinder head. I'd like to install a set of OEM 280ZX turbo fuel injectors. If switched to the fatter injectors, the mixture can be adjusted with the SDS programmer based on the injector flow rate, so I'm not concerned about fuel/air ratio problems. Any advice...? Thanks
Last reply by chaztg, -
First of all I have been out for a while and just getting back to my z car. Quick summary I had some electrical issues that were causing the car to run at 18V. This has been fixed primarily with a newer internally regulated alternator and a little rewiring. Thanks to all. Next issue appeared to be gas delivery. The car, after some checks, appears to be running lean. Previously I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter (not really related at least when replaced to the lean comment). I noticed when I removed the old filter that there was a lot of small brown particles on one side of the filter, clean on other. Both the pump and filter have less than 1000 miles on…
Last reply by bhermes, -
-
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
There is a lot of information, and even a current thread, about using any number of the various gas tank restoration systems. These systems typically involve acid stripping the inside of the tank and then coating with some paint / epoxy type coating. I have two tanks that are in terrific condition. When I look inside the tank (as well as I am able to) the surfaces seem to be electroplated in some way- maybe zinc. Does anyone know how our tanks came from the factory? Was the inside untreated metal? Personally, I don't think so. Was the inside electroplated? If so, with what? Have any of you guys considered having the tank acid stripped and zinc electroplated instead of usi…
Last reply by siteunseen,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
jfa.series1
