Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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Hi guys, It seems that bad karma is following my 76's fuel pumps. After 4 years, the MSD 2225 fuel pump quit on me (installed vertically), I bought a new one, that one lasted less than a year (same orientation). Due to the covid supply issues, instead of waiting for a warranty replacement (weeks), I decided to replace it with the Ultra-power's E8312 unit. I installed it in November in the horizontal position after reading a lot of people saying that it should be horizontal as close to the bottom of the fuel tank line as possible. In all my cases there is a small see-through fuel filter installed just before the pump. The fuel is clear, no rust. I use non-Ethanol fuel…
Last reply by darom, -
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1975 280Z, CA car. So today is the first time I have put gas in the car. Drove it around to check the exhaust note after redoing the exhaust. I filled it - took about 13 gallons. Within seconds fuel started pouring down the back right side of the tank from above the seam. As an aside, getting my wife to like being in the car is getting more & more difficult 😞 In any event, looking in the manuals there are two EVAP lines on the top of the tank. So, I'm assuming the leak is either an aged hose (#28 or 29) that has ruptured, and/or one of the necks is leaking at the tank. I don't know if that's a thing with these though, so I'm hoping it's just the hoses. …
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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Hey all! This is my first post. I've been active in the Miata and BMW community for the last 20 years but am just diving into Zs How I got here is a long story but I need some help with baselining my EFI settings. I have a wideband O2 sensor installed and am currently idling great at 13.5 AFR but I can't get the idle below 1100 RPM. The idle speed screw is all the way in. The idle air screw on the AFM doesn't seem to do much. I did move my toothed wheel in the AFM to get where I am now (I marked the original position, though I'm not sure it was right to begin with)-- when I first got everything running it was EXTREMELY lean at 20 AFR. My guess is I need to star…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Put a bung on the Z and installed. after warm up idle mix is around 12.5 ish, tried to lean more with the bypass screw but that was as lean as it would go, started at about 11.5 so I was able to bring up some. I did confrim TPS sensor was closed during the idle. Drive around the block test results in mostly 13-13.5 with occasional blips into low 14's, but never sustained above 13's. Will do some highway driving tomorrow just to base line it. I have a few AFM's to try out and see if there is any difference. I am sure at least one has been opened up so I will prob experiment with that one to see if I can get to an optimal lamba reading or a mix of 14.7 while stead…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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I have heard stories about sticky AFM's in the past, but I have never held one in my own two hands. Until now. So I've got this AFM here that has a binding sticky spot right in the middle of it's travel. I have looked it over very carefully and cannot see any visible explanation for the sticky spot. I'm thinking maybe the damper section of the vane may be making contact up in the belfry area, or the main shaft may be bent. At this point, I'm toying with the prospect of taking the back cover off. I remember some discussion about doing this in the past, but don't remember if anyone has actually gone through with it. Has anyone taken this back side cover off? …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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I'm working on getting the old dry-rotted cracked leaky hoses off some fuel injectors. In the past, I've simply cut/pulled/snipped/pried the old hose off the injectors, and while that works, it's always resulted in some scratching to the barbs on the ends of the injectors. The FSM talks about grinding the hoses off and I'd like to give that a try. Problem is, grinding could destroy the small metal ferrules at the base of the hose. So, question is... Anyone have a source for replacement ferrules? Here's a pic of injectors with and without the hose. I used the old standby method to get that hose off (in pieces), and I'm looking for a better option. Before and…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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1976 Datsun / Nissan Fairlady 2.0 EFI Bought this car a year ago and been steadily working on it. The car came to me running off a fuel canister from the front. It used to run fine off that but obviously I cant drive it round like that. Once I put the pump on the back it didn’t run. And this is where the fun began. Chasing wires, relays, checking fuel pressure etc etc. All done ( for the most part following the EFI Bible ) For the last year I been tapping away at it doing this that etc. Eventually I got it to run and this is where I am now. It starts and runs as long as I keep my foot down a bit on the throttle and have the TPS disconnected and bypassed . Fuel pre…
Last reply by milligan21, -
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I have a '72 240Z with a Rebello engine, TWM EFI/etc, and a '76 fuel tank and pump. But the fuel gauge (not unexpectedly) doesn't show accurate fuel levels. That is the gauge indicates less fuel than actual, and never points higher than about 3/4 with an actual full tank of gas. Short of replacing the gauge with a '76, might there be an electrical component I could install to correct the signal sent from the sender unit to the gauge?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 455 views
I saw this, and it reminded me of quite a few threads here: https://www.hagerty.com/media/advice/piston-slap/piston-slap-too-much-talk-just-for-vapor-lock
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
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For those of us with a late 70's 280z folks with Fuel Injection there is a hidden part called the flame arrester. My 77’ came from previous owners with various failed attempts at maintaining said Z. Like mine, there is probably a chance that the Valve Cover Ventilation Hose has been replaced. If so, check to make sure this part is in there and if you replace the hose be sure to remove and insert it into the new hose. It is part #5 from this page of the FSM. Mine did not have this and since it is NLA I came up with this really inexpensive replacement. It is a quick and easy part to substitute with very little effort b…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 6 followers
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I wanted to see If anyone knew if their was any correlation between these two relays. One is the stock 280z fuel relay as we know it (under drivers side dash) and the other is a Bosch Fuel injecton relay for Porsche-VW. Bosch one is significantly cheaper than stock AND appears to have the same pinout. What are your thoughts?
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 1 follower
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- 475 views
My 280Z has had all kinds of botch repairs to the EFI harness. Quite the mess. I want to get rid of the spaghetti look while I'm at it. So, I cut the entire harness at the strut tower, and I'll put in a couple gang plugs to tie the new harness to the original. These two were the patched thermal timer & ECT - based on the other end where I can see the cable numbers, I think they had them reversed. That would help explain the horrible starting & rough running I'm using wiring colors based on Volvo conventions, since that's what I'm familiar with. I'll make a legend to translate from the white numbered harness to the colors used. Us…
Last reply by HusseinHolland,
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