Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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I just had my tank media blasted, boiled, and sealed. While doing so I delivered a Competition Engineering sump to be installed as a part of my fuel system upgrade. When I got it back, instead of drilling out three - five holes in the floor of the tank and welding in the sump, they cut out the bottom of the tank the size of the while sump. As a result the sump is now not baffled. I don't like it and am not happy with it but the vendor basically said, "Too bad unless you want to pay us to fix it." I took my tank and left. I have a real concern about the sump not being baffled properly and in low fuel situations allowing for fuel starvation. Am I right to be concerned or am…
Last reply by zKars, -
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- 23 replies
- 5.7k views
2' aluminium stock off ebay $30. 6 -1/4 NPTx5/16 barbs from Lowes @$1.60, 2 -3/8 NPTx5/16 barbs from Fastenal @$2.03, loaned from a plumber friend taps & bits @$0, 4lbs baking soda for blasting gun from Dollar Store $2.00. $100 on beer. Easy to do. I'm gonna give myself a 8 out of 10. Next one will be perfect.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 17 replies
- 13.9k views
I'm planning on replacing all my fuel injectors on my 76. I see the price for new injectors ranges from about $45 each for BWD brand at Advanced Auto to over $80 each for some brands. I've used Echlin products on my other vehicles over the years and I see NAPA has Echlin injectors for the Z for about $65 each. Anyway, is there any reason why I shouldn't go with the BWD (Borg Worner) injectors vs paying a lot more for other brands? BW usually makes good products, although may be not as good as Echlin. And I'd rather stay away from rebuilt or remanufactured ones and the core charge. Thanks Gary
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
Ok so i havent tried to start my 1977 280z in abut 6 months and it use to run fine, but now when i try to start it she trys to stay running but there is a sound of like pressure releasing and it kills the car as soon as that happens, im only one person so i cant see where the sound is coming from, the only possible idea i have had so far is that the fuel pressure regulator is shot but i checked the fuel psi after the filter and there was about 39 psi, but im new to working on these older vehicals im more into newer imports but this car was just passed down to me and i have big plans for it so any help would be nice.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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can anyone tell me the required fuel psi on a 77 280z???
Last reply by Bobby Kahler, -
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Is it the right? Or the other side? That's my AAR connection too. Thanks for any help. EDIT: Sorry, Ive found that the LFT side is the 12volt and RT for the ECU in my picture.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
BCDD removal 1 2 3
by siteunseen- 24 replies
- 17.5k views
Could somebody that has taken their BCDD off tell me whether they like not having it or wish they hadn't removed it. Thanks for any replies.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 6 replies
- 6.8k views
I'm wanting to learn more about ITB installations and any problems with this injection system. Search for ITB turns up zero.
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I have an early '77 that has the hose from the valve cover attaching to the accordion boot before the throttle body. It takes forever to warm up. I notice a lot of those hoses going to the throttle body beside the one coming from the air regulator. I have the '78 FSM and it shows valve cover to throttle body. I guess I'll try it the newer way and see what happens. Just asking opinions. Thanks.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I recently bought my 280z a few days ago the car drives fine and everything but i noticed that the fuel pump is still on while the car is on ACC, i know for a fact this isn't right and was confused at why it was doing so. I looked under the car and found that fuel pump had been replaced at some point in it's life time and i retraced the wires and they end at the bottom of the passengers seat, they're connected to some sort of relay. i need help! i don't understand why the fuel pump is still on while the engine hasn't even started i'm scared it could flood the engine. I hate to take it to a mechanic to fix it for me and i figured i could do it myself. PLEASE REPLY!!! …
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 6 replies
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My car ran bad before I rebuilt the motor so I did a bunch of stuff trying to make it better like messing with the TVS. So now it runs almost perfect, it's like I'm in a dream or something, but at 2800 to 3000 it is like a power band kicks in. I've adjusted the TVS up and down for the past week and still can't get it right, I'm close right now so I'm asking, at that RPM the WOT contact is closed I suppose, so does the width between IDLE and WOT need to be farther apart? In my mind since it runs so much better when WOT is closed they should be closer together. Almost as soon as it's off idle contact it should be on the WOT contact. But I've learned to do right the opp…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 replies
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I'm noticing that, after shutting off engine for awhile(to run into the store for 10-20mins)AND if the engine temp gauge is reading well toward the hot side(Before Starting),the engine is difficult to start...acts as if it is either flooded or can't get enough fuel initially and slowly ramps up to normal operation. After it has time to cool down, it has no significant problems starting.... Ideas???
Last reply by Wade Nelson,
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