Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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- 17 replies
- 3.9k views
My car's had the hot start stumbling problem more often recently so I decided to try something. In my case, the problem seems like a lean condition, based on the intake backfires and the lack of gasoline smell or smoke in the exhaust. I also noticed that if the temperature gauge went higher than usual, like up to the middle of the M, that the problem was likely to happen. So I bought a 5 kohm Audio Taper Potentiometer and spliced it in to the water temperature circuit as a rheostat (two wires connected, one left open). Mounted it by the hood release handle in the cabin so that I could tune it when needed. It's basically the part behind the volume knob on an amplifier.…
Last reply by grantf, -
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- 0 replies
- 1.1k views
Purchased a 0-60 psi fuel pressure gauge from Summitt racing about 6 months ago and it is faulty (I think). It periodically reads incorrect. Anyone else have the same issue? If so, which pressure gauge do you use now? Thanks.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 8 replies
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When the heater blower motor is not running the idle is a little rough......you turn the fan switch on high the idle smooths out. I suspect this is a grounding issue, power draw, or relay issue. I wanted to see if this is a known issue, before I begin troubleshooting. It's comically repeatable, and I would normally expect the opposite behavior. I have good charging regardless if the blower is running or not.
Last reply by xubuntu, -
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My intake holes are a little off from my cylinder head. Is it worth the time grinding it out or just leave it? Maybe try and make the air flow better by rounding off those edges. It's a bare intake so no worries about shavings getting into things. Suggestions please.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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I disabled my cold start injector a little while ago by pulling off the electrical connector. Just to see how the car would perform on cold starts without it, and decide if I really needed it or if I could do without. I've not used the car much since I disabled it, but the results are not that dramatic. The cranking times when "Pennsylvania cold" are definitely longer than with it connected, but they are not "objectionable". I'm assuming that if I were in Canada or Wisconsin, I wouldn't be able to get away with this, but here in PA it seems to be OK without. This is a fair weather car for me anyway and I don't expect it will get a lot of winter usage. I'm thinking I may r…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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So if anyone remembers me, I had a car that was jerking and running a bit unsteadily (75 280z), and was able to rectify this by cleaning a bunch of the electrical contacts. I've since done some more homework and determined that the primary culprit was the TPS; my TPS seems to get dirty very easily (and usually fouls a day or do after a rainstorm if I don't clean it immediately after). This will either cause an unsteady idle, or uneven performance at more than 3/4 throttle, so it's easy to diagnose. I have the cover securely on the TPS, so I don't know how it gets fouled, but as long as I spray it with contact cleaner every couple months, the car runs fine as my daily dri…
Last reply by NiiChan GT-R, -
- 14 replies
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Hi, 1976 280z. Was starting good and running fine. Lots of vacum hoses replaced on refresh as well as AFM and air regulator. Recently problem started,, would not start on several attempts. Had to do it 3-4 times then would start and run fine. After starting cold engne goes up to about 1100 rpms and as it warms comes down to 800 where set. One thing I do not hear is the relay click when I turn the key one before starting and I don't hear the pump come on. Haven't done fuel presure bleed down test yet, but believe the pump not coming on to bring up presure is the problem. Looked in FSM and didn't see how the system works. Am I correct that the pump should spool up first …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I know there have been 48 million posts on this subject but i just need simple answers/opinions. i have a 1977 280z 5 speed all original. after driving and left for 15 ish minutes the car will either start and run at roughly 400 rpm or more recently it will start sputter and die. now iv heard this may be vapor lock or a problem with the cold start injector. either way what can i do to solve this problem? iv heard of wrapping the fuel rail to make sure it doesnt get to hot, and heard about disconnecting the cold start injector. i need help! this is a very embarrassing problem and id love to solve it as soon as possible. thanks!
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 7 replies
- 1.9k views
I have been working on the '77 280z I picked up a few weeks ago and went about removing not 1 but 2 aftermarket radio harnesses. While doing so I saw a previous owner had used 2 wires that were spliced in to the ignition switch at the key to 2 wires going in to the fuse box, a blue w/white stripe wire and a white w/blk stripe wire. I removed the wires and repaired the splices in the wires going in to the fuse box. From what I have read so far this was done either because the fuel pump relay is out or the EFI relay is out. How would I know which relay is out? Due to the cost of the relays is this a safe method of powering the fuel pump and EFI system? My guess is no.…
Last reply by Hardway, -
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The stock engine harness is basically garbage. I have yet to see an original one where the shielding on the Dizzy side is still in good condition but given that it's exposed to the elements it's not fair to expect it too be. There is basically no shielding on anything other than the O2, the fuel pump control (don't care with MS) and the dizzy. An auto engine bay is full of EMI that can cause problems with any electronic fuel injection system. Look at a 240SX wiring diagram and you'll see that the manufacture shields almost all of the sensors. I've been researching a few other after market engine harnesses for other engines to see what the other guys have. The 2JZ, etc hav…
Last reply by FricFrac, -
- 8 replies
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A little new to the sight but have posted previously. I have recently purchased a 1976 280Z 2+2 and use it as a daily driver. It runs and starts fine but about once per month it stops running while I am driving. It starts to sputter (if that a word) and acts like it wants to keep going and then dies. Occassionally if I keep pumping the gas pedal it will pull through and run again for several days but others it just dies. If I try and start the car immediately it will try and turn over but not start. If I wait an hour or so it will almost always start. I drive the car 3 miles to work and 3 miles back daily and not much more driving. My original thought was rust in t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 13 replies
- 1.7k views
Have 2 injectors leaking on my 77 280. Took a few days of troubleshooting to figure out why my Z seemed like it was loading up on a cold start up. Pulled the plugs yesterday after Z sat over night and found 2 of them wet with fuel. So, I can't decide if I want to just replace them or have a fuel injector service done on the car or pull them and send them in to be rebuilt. Anyone have negative results? One's that you regret? Thanks.
Last reply by 240260280z,
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