Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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I'm trying to put the fram filter between the fuel tank and the pump, however the hose that goes to the pump it is not a 3/8 as everybody is saying it seems to be a 1/2 , attached is a picture of the fuel tank nipple, I do not know if the owner before me tried to "reinvent" the way the fuel flow goes ,due to the fact that he replace the OEM fuel pump and removed the damper ,any thoughts?
Last reply by cesar280z, -
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ok 78 z po had put on carbs because fi had "problems" saved all old fi parts, great i got the bright idea to put it back to fi, got it all back toegether and finally got it to run sort of seems to run well up to half throttle then get realy rich black smoke , if i remove the boot between air filter and air flow meter and hold the afm flap at about half open wow does it ever run great but let it go open and it runs terrible help with any ideas, ps my fuel pump runs constantly when key is on, thinking po rewired it when he done carb swap does it matter??:stupid:
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280Z-N42-Intake-Manifold-No-EGR-Rare-/370559494085?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item56471127c5
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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The 77 smells like it is running rich and the spark plugs tell me the same. I get a backfire and stumble pulling away from a stop under partial load at low revs. That being said I seem to be getting the same problems others have had I found searching similar posts about EFI problems; and all those seem to indicate air bypassing the AFM or the coolant temp sensor; and others indicate a lean condition with that. My boot seems to be in good shape. What kind of tests can I run on that sensor to check that? Any other suggestions? I want my pile running as good as this pile will run for my trip to Fredericksburg next month. After this trip I am going to pull my Turbo m…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Ok still working on our 76. What if the water temp. sensor and the thermal time switch are hooked up wrong? What I mean is if they are switched. I replaced the Temp sensor and I think the wire running to it has the red tape on it. And i think it should be the other way. with that wire going to the Thermal Time Switch. What it still will do is run ok until it gets real warm then stumble at 3000 RPM.
Last reply by sblake01, -
I have a 76 280z that runs rough, lacks power, and is quite gas-inefficient. I checked my air temp sensor and water temp sensor w/ a multimeter, and they read acceptably. I hooked up a vacuum gauge with a T at the FPR vac line, and these were the results: ~10.5 in Hg @ 800 rpm (not jumpy, but twitchy) (I don't have a tachometer yet, sorry) drops to ~4.5 in as throttle is applied raises back to ~10 in to WOT up to ~20 in @ throttle release Fuel pressure (gauge is not very accurate) 39 psi (idle)- 42/43 psi (throttle applied) I tried messing with the AFM (PO put wrong one on the car)- gave it more fuel while also decreasing idle back to 800 rpm (my dad was screaming the tac…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I am having issues with my FI relay connector, I have cleaned the connector used dielectric grease on it and I am still having issues. Does anyone have a good remedy for this? I understand that I could re-pin the entire connector, do you guys know a good place i can pick up some terminal inserts?
Last reply by zKars, -
I'm having a problem with my 1976 280z. The fuel pump works when I connect a battery to it, and I've checked for continuity on the relay and thats fine aswell, but when I dont have a dedicated 12v, it wont work. When I try to start the car, it cranks but there is no click from the relay, and the fuel pump doesnt make a sound. I've tried using the fuel injection bible for this problem (the relay not clicking). When I perform the continuity check for the 2nd step on page 55, I ONLY get continuity when the NEGATIVE is connected to 20 on the control unit and the positive is grounded. After performing this step I tried the one on page 56 but could not get continuity either way…
Last reply by Brae, -
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I bought this from a guy on one of the Z sites classified section. It looks like it may have had a 60mm throttle body by looking at the grinding on the opening. I don't want a bigger throttle body (lots of people say it's wasted money on a stock motor) so could I still use it with my OE TB? This intake has the egr mounting section but does not have any 10mm plugs or the small holes in the runners. I taped everthing off and sucked on the brake booster hole and it's airtight so I really don't need the plate covering the egr mount, I think I'll put one on just for looks better reason. Any ideas of what it is? Early N47? I like it and would like to know what it came off…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Standard Motor Products FJ3 This is a brand new set of 6 Datsun 280Z Fuel Injectors. This seller has almost perfect feedback too.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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IfMy relay is clicking both times, but I'm still not getting power to pump, should I replace the wires /connectors between the two pieces , if reconnecting doesn't help.whereabouts does the wire go aftee the relay
Last reply by Brae, -
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I have spoken with 3 mechanics whom I have complete faith in their knowledge of Imports. All of them told me that cutting the EGR valve mount off the rear of my N47 intake would be fine. Turning my N47 into something closer to the coveted N42 intake but still keeping the newer technology on the N47. I have a ceramic coated header from MSA for my '77 car with a N47 head that has no fitting for any kind of heat tube. Today I carried the intake to a Foreign car machine shop to have it vatted hopefully to de-carbon it. He said that my intake had to have a way of heat circulating or it would frost up and not run well. That's totally backwards from everything I've read on …
Last reply by LeonV,
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