Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
I was wondering if the intakes on the 280zx's will work on say a 280z?
Last reply by LeonV, -
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- 5 replies
- 9.8k views
So first off, the 280z from my other post is just fine, I've been driving it daily for however long it's been with no issue ...That's when I get cocky and get another car! So, the fuel pump was suspect; I wound up getting twelve volts at the terminals when the AFM flap was open, but the fuel pump wouldn't run; new pump, problem solved. However, rather than pumping any fuel, it seems only to make noise; i have the fuel line from the pump inserted into a jar for the time being, no dice on getting any fuel. I drained the gas tank, the gas inside was liquid rather than solid syrup/rust/bits of fuel tank, just smelled a bit odd (ten years old presumably) so I was fine wit…
Last reply by NiiChan GT-R, -
- 7 replies
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I tested them with a noid light and then whith a mutlimeter set for 12 volts. I replaced the fuel injector relay, the other device that is on the driverside inner fender by the brake booster, the wiring harness and the ECU. Whats left, am I missing something. The only thing that is not connected is the Temp sensor (the one wire one for the Gauge). The car starts but will die if I unplugged the cold start valve. my old harness was only dead on cylinder #3 This one is dead on all! Does anyone know where I can buy a brand new harness?
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 2 replies
- 4.5k views
Are there any real good ways to upgrade the fuel rail syster for a 280z? I was wonderinf if you could just get a fuel rail from a 2JZ motor from a toyota or from a 280zx or anything? Are there any good/cheap aftermarket billet rails? I just hate having to mess with the tiny segments of fuel hose every other week and have a new leak. any help is good help thanks.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
I had taken my manifolds off and found this hole under my intake, N47, and was told it was in the Heat Riser. I have taken a sawz-all and "deleted" my EGR from the intake for header install. My Dad says it's nothing to worry about but he's never and will never own a "Furrin Car", he retired from Good Year tire company so he's all about buy American. So I'm asking the Z crowd if he's right or should I buy another intake?
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 15 replies
- 3.4k views
I've tried my best to read up/ research and be thorough, and I'm still failing with my diagnosis... Here goes. 1975 280z, all stock l28e. Valves adjusted, all filters replaced, new plugs, coil, efi temp. sensor, all vacuum lines replaced (Inc. under the dash), except for the evaporative system, which I've disconnected and plugged from the manifold and vacuum advance for the time being *to remove that variable. I use the car as a daily driver. About a month ago, the car suddenly started running poorly (bucking, loss of power, weak idle), and I found that tweaking the mixture cog in the afm richer by about 45 deg (as per the Atlantic z-car site) improved the car to normal. …
Last reply by NiiChan GT-R, -
- 10 replies
- 3k views
I found this on walmart.com for $20 bucks. I'm going to get one. I don't care about radios just want some gauges to look at.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
Just got through looping the neighborhood (cops probably soon to come) about 4 times. with the gauge on drivers windshield blade. start up 24psi, cold. patted throttle went down to 22psi. started my 1st loop medium warmth 24psi, up a hill climbed to 28psi, back down other side dropped to 24psi. middle gauge heat range (hot) 24psi, rev up drops to 20 to 22psi. hot idle 24psi @800rpm. ran terrible. unplugged TPS, ran worse, got a little smoother after 3k rpm. plugged back up TPS. unhooked vacuum line from bottom of FPR and clamped it from intake side. 34psi and ran way better until I got caught at redlight. maintained 34psi but sputtered and fluttered until excess gas burnt…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 17 replies
- 3k views
I put my pressure gauge in today and got some questional readings. Gauge attached to hose from filter reads 48 p.s.i, hooked to the fuel rail drops to 25. Unplug vacuum from FPR goes to 34. Plugged vacuum line from intake and ran it without FPR getting any vacuum. Runs waaay better. If I let it sit at idle for a few minutes it loads up. A couple of rev ups and it clears up. I'm hard headed and stuck on the idea that the FPR is bad. $60 dollar part, but if it ain't broke..... Any advice?
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 8 replies
- 2.4k views
Will this work on my '77 if I need one? "These MSD boost adjustable regulators are designed for turbo or supercharged engines. As boost pressure increases, more fuel is required by the engine. These regulators feature a boost reference circuit that adds more fuel in relation to boost pressure." Seems like boost would be the opposite of vacuum. I have a stock motor. What do you all think?
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
- 9 replies
- 4.4k views
Can a copper or other type of tubing be slipped inside the original line to repair the rusted pickup tube. I have a 78 280 that has no fuel pressure 1/2 tank or less. It has pressure, just no fuel. Has anyone ever tried this before? Thanks
Last reply by pegasus76, -
- 2 replies
- 1.8k views
I was replacing some wonky fuel system parts while I was trying to find out why my NOS fuel pump is howling like it's got a belly-ache. I decided to replace the Fuel Damper. Having already flushed the tank, I installed a filter between the fuel tank and the pump (as I had read in the hundreds of earlier posts) as well as the Pressure Regulator -but alas the pump is groaning like its had too many Jalapenos! Finding a Fuel Damper was not as easy as I thought, so I remembered that these were Bosch L-Jetronic systems and that there were many cars that used L-Jetronic. What I found was a Mercedes part (W0133-1615150) here: http://www.importeccatalog.com/item.wws?mfr=BOSCH&a…
Last reply by donplau,
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