Fuel Injection

IfMy relay is clicking both times, but I'm still not getting power to pump, should I replace the wires /connectors between the two pieces , if reconnecting doesn't help.whereabouts does the wire go aftee the relay

I have spoken with 3 mechanics whom I have complete faith in their knowledge of Imports. All of them told me that cutting the EGR valve mount off the rear of my N47 intake would be fine. Turning my N47 into something closer to the coveted N42 intake but still keeping the newer technology on the N47. I have a ceramic coated header from MSA for my '77 car with a N47 head that has no fitting for any kind of heat tube. Today I carried the intake to a Foreign car machine shop to have it vatted hopefully to de-carbon it. He said that my intake had to have a way of heat circulating or it would frost up and not run well. That's totally backwards from everything I've read on …

I was wondering if the intakes on the 280zx's will work on say a 280z?

So first off, the 280z from my other post is just fine, I've been driving it daily for however long it's been with no issue ...That's when I get cocky and get another car! So, the fuel pump was suspect; I wound up getting twelve volts at the terminals when the AFM flap was open, but the fuel pump wouldn't run; new pump, problem solved. However, rather than pumping any fuel, it seems only to make noise; i have the fuel line from the pump inserted into a jar for the time being, no dice on getting any fuel. I drained the gas tank, the gas inside was liquid rather than solid syrup/rust/bits of fuel tank, just smelled a bit odd (ten years old presumably) so I was fine wit…

I tested them with a noid light and then whith a mutlimeter set for 12 volts. I replaced the fuel injector relay, the other device that is on the driverside inner fender by the brake booster, the wiring harness and the ECU. Whats left, am I missing something. The only thing that is not connected is the Temp sensor (the one wire one for the Gauge). The car starts but will die if I unplugged the cold start valve. my old harness was only dead on cylinder #3 This one is dead on all! Does anyone know where I can buy a brand new harness?

Are there any real good ways to upgrade the fuel rail syster for a 280z? I was wonderinf if you could just get a fuel rail from a 2JZ motor from a toyota or from a 280zx or anything? Are there any good/cheap aftermarket billet rails? I just hate having to mess with the tiny segments of fuel hose every other week and have a new leak. any help is good help thanks.

I had taken my manifolds off and found this hole under my intake, N47, and was told it was in the Heat Riser. I have taken a sawz-all and "deleted" my EGR from the intake for header install. My Dad says it's nothing to worry about but he's never and will never own a "Furrin Car", he retired from Good Year tire company so he's all about buy American. So I'm asking the Z crowd if he's right or should I buy another intake?

I've tried my best to read up/ research and be thorough, and I'm still failing with my diagnosis... Here goes. 1975 280z, all stock l28e. Valves adjusted, all filters replaced, new plugs, coil, efi temp. sensor, all vacuum lines replaced (Inc. under the dash), except for the evaporative system, which I've disconnected and plugged from the manifold and vacuum advance for the time being *to remove that variable. I use the car as a daily driver. About a month ago, the car suddenly started running poorly (bucking, loss of power, weak idle), and I found that tweaking the mixture cog in the afm richer by about 45 deg (as per the Atlantic z-car site) improved the car to normal. …

I found this on walmart.com for $20 bucks. I'm going to get one. I don't care about radios just want some gauges to look at.

Just got through looping the neighborhood (cops probably soon to come) about 4 times. with the gauge on drivers windshield blade. start up 24psi, cold. patted throttle went down to 22psi. started my 1st loop medium warmth 24psi, up a hill climbed to 28psi, back down other side dropped to 24psi. middle gauge heat range (hot) 24psi, rev up drops to 20 to 22psi. hot idle 24psi @800rpm. ran terrible. unplugged TPS, ran worse, got a little smoother after 3k rpm. plugged back up TPS. unhooked vacuum line from bottom of FPR and clamped it from intake side. 34psi and ran way better until I got caught at redlight. maintained 34psi but sputtered and fluttered until excess gas burnt…

I put my pressure gauge in today and got some questional readings. Gauge attached to hose from filter reads 48 p.s.i, hooked to the fuel rail drops to 25. Unplug vacuum from FPR goes to 34. Plugged vacuum line from intake and ran it without FPR getting any vacuum. Runs waaay better. If I let it sit at idle for a few minutes it loads up. A couple of rev ups and it clears up. I'm hard headed and stuck on the idea that the FPR is bad. $60 dollar part, but if it ain't broke..... Any advice?

Will this work on my '77 if I need one? "These MSD boost adjustable regulators are designed for turbo or supercharged engines. As boost pressure increases, more fuel is required by the engine. These regulators feature a boost reference circuit that adds more fuel in relation to boost pressure." Seems like boost would be the opposite of vacuum. I have a stock motor. What do you all think?