Fuel Injection

I have a 1978 280z 5 speed. It has the AFM on it, that has an air bypass screw on both sides of the AFM. Can someone tell me more about them, when to adjust them, when to leave them alone etc? I searched the forums and didnt really find what I was looking for. For one thing....turn CW will richen the mixture and turning CCW lean it out, is that right? What is the way to adjust the CO readings on the car (assume a normal running engine)? Do you just need to adjust the AFM screw(s), or do you also have to adjust the air bypass screw(s) too? Lastly, does the idle adjustment spring and the AFM air bypass screws work in conjunction with each other? I dont understand yet how a…

So I have been trying to get better gas mileage in the last few days. So far I have done some easy things that needed to be done anyhow like a new spark plug wire set and rotor cap, an oil change, inspected and replaced a leaky vacuum hose and a timing adjustment. So far nothing has really improved engine performance with the exception of the timing, it was about 5 deg. advanced not to bad. I timed it back to the 10 deg. mark and the engine seems to run smoother no real power increase but it does run nice and has a stable idle. So next is to look at the spark plugs to see what they can tell me and I am thinking about bringing my injectors in to an injector shop for cleani…

I'm working on a 1978 280Z that sat for a few years with out running and am hoping for a little advise. I changed the fuel pump and then realized I may have an electrical issue (fuel pump is not pumping). Possible a fuel pump realy. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.

My fuel pump is loud. It can be heard inside or outside, even over the engine at idle. My two questions are: 1. is this the normal volume for the FI fuel pump? Or is the sound an indicator that it is old and dying? 2. If it is normal, has anyone tried insulating or similar to reduce volume? Geof

Hi all, As you may recall from my "purs like a kitten" thread, I installed a potentiometer in the coolant temp sensor circuit last fall to richen my fuel/air mixture. I did this because my ECU had apparently drifted in its calibration to a progressively leaner state (shorter injector pulses). Inserting resistance in the CTS circuit results in enrichment proportionally throughout all operating conditions -- or so it would seem. My car has been running like a top ever since, with vacuum in the 18.5 in Hg vicinity. I did have one glitch recently, in that I decided to drive my car to Richmond. My fuel pump died en route, and I had to be towed back home. I replaced the …

wassup guys i was just wondering if anyone has done a efi conversion using triple carbs? reason why i asked is because i have 3 japanese mags that had a tech article on how to convert your triples to efi itbs but the thing that sucks about it is that i cant read japanese. my guess is that its something like this: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt84283/pd1957179/D__O.E.R._SPORT_INJECTION_KITS_

Hey guys. I purchased a '76 280Z that had sat for a long time, although it has been driven some the last few years. I am in the process of changing out all the fluids and filters and such and have run into a problem with keeping the car running. Some backgropund info on what has been accomplished so far. I have changed out the brake fluid, coolant, oil and filter, differential fluid, with only the automatic transmission fluid to go. A few weeks ago the car began to sputter and then quit. Fortunately it quit as I pulled back into the driveway (had to push it into the garage though). When restarting the car again it ran real rough for about 2-3 seconds and then quit. …

So I decided to start a new thread under the fuel injection section because its not related to the electrical section where I resurrected a thread from the dead. 280, I realize this thread is several years old but this where i got at by >searching< Im having the the same problem. I had a buddy of mine put his finger on the inlet of the fuel pump and he only felt suction while cranking. I tested all the fusible links inside the passengers compartment and all have continuity. With the key on the on position I held open the afm flapper and the fuel pump ran. I dont want to crank the car since its night but tomorrrow morning i will test some more. With the fuel pump rel…

I have been looking for some diffrent things to do to my 78 280 and i have been looking at the ITB kit that zcc has for sale. Im wondering if anybody has used them? Is it going to be worth the price to use them? PFCsilvey

Hi All: I am getting close to getting my stroker project running, and am planning to use the 280ZX Turbo AFM that I got with the engine (someone else's project once upon a time). I am swapping the NA electrics into the Turbo AFM, but have noticed two problems, one of which I can solve with solder (differing wire/lead lengths). The other problem is that the '75 has a fuel pump switch tied to the AFM. This means there is a switch on the circuit board and a piece on rotating arm that opens a circuit if the AFM 'door' is closed. The problem is that the Turbo AFM rotating arm piece has a different center diameter for the mount, so I can just swap them and make it all work…

First off, I have read the fuel injection bible, and searched for about 2 weeks now with no solid answer as of yet... Here is the issue... The car runs rich at all times, warm, cold, you name it. Does not smoke black. Smokes a little grey at times. Idles lopey as though it has a cam (it may for all I know, engine came from a racing zcar that was wrecked I'm told). Will idle ok, and drive for about 20 miles with new plugs. It will then foul the plugs and die will not start again for a few hours. Upon starting, it will barely idle, and will not run well enough to move more than a few feet. Replacing the plugs starts the cycle anew. Inspection of the plugs reveals a heavy …

78 280Z, 9000 miles on engine rebuilt to stock. Only mods are twice pipes and K+N air intake. While wiping down and inspecting my engine bay I noticed the plastic portion of my original Cold Start Injector (CSI) was slightly loose where it met it's metal base. I've gone too far under the hood to stop now, so I ordered a replacement, although I tempted fate by getting one from Ebay... The new CSI has it's fuel inlet in the correct alignment, however the fuel nozzle (where it enters the intake manifold) is shorter than my original, and the fuel outlet is straight down instead of aft, like my original. I installed it anyway, and the car runs fine through its warm-up cycle, b…