Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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I'm working on a 1978 280Z that sat for a few years with out running and am hoping for a little advise. I changed the fuel pump and then realized I may have an electrical issue (fuel pump is not pumping). Possible a fuel pump realy. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
Last reply by argniest, -
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- 5 replies
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My fuel pump is loud. It can be heard inside or outside, even over the engine at idle. My two questions are: 1. is this the normal volume for the FI fuel pump? Or is the sound an indicator that it is old and dying? 2. If it is normal, has anyone tried insulating or similar to reduce volume? Geof
Last reply by SportBikeMike, -
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Hi all, As you may recall from my "purs like a kitten" thread, I installed a potentiometer in the coolant temp sensor circuit last fall to richen my fuel/air mixture. I did this because my ECU had apparently drifted in its calibration to a progressively leaner state (shorter injector pulses). Inserting resistance in the CTS circuit results in enrichment proportionally throughout all operating conditions -- or so it would seem. My car has been running like a top ever since, with vacuum in the 18.5 in Hg vicinity. I did have one glitch recently, in that I decided to drive my car to Richmond. My fuel pump died en route, and I had to be towed back home. I replaced the …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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wassup guys i was just wondering if anyone has done a efi conversion using triple carbs? reason why i asked is because i have 3 japanese mags that had a tech article on how to convert your triples to efi itbs but the thing that sucks about it is that i cant read japanese. my guess is that its something like this: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt84283/pd1957179/D__O.E.R._SPORT_INJECTION_KITS_
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
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Hey guys. I purchased a '76 280Z that had sat for a long time, although it has been driven some the last few years. I am in the process of changing out all the fluids and filters and such and have run into a problem with keeping the car running. Some backgropund info on what has been accomplished so far. I have changed out the brake fluid, coolant, oil and filter, differential fluid, with only the automatic transmission fluid to go. A few weeks ago the car began to sputter and then quit. Fortunately it quit as I pulled back into the driveway (had to push it into the garage though). When restarting the car again it ran real rough for about 2-3 seconds and then quit. …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 11 replies
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So I decided to start a new thread under the fuel injection section because its not related to the electrical section where I resurrected a thread from the dead. 280, I realize this thread is several years old but this where i got at by >searching< Im having the the same problem. I had a buddy of mine put his finger on the inlet of the fuel pump and he only felt suction while cranking. I tested all the fusible links inside the passengers compartment and all have continuity. With the key on the on position I held open the afm flapper and the fuel pump ran. I dont want to crank the car since its night but tomorrrow morning i will test some more. With the fuel pump rel…
Last reply by cozye, -
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I have been looking for some diffrent things to do to my 78 280 and i have been looking at the ITB kit that zcc has for sale. Im wondering if anybody has used them? Is it going to be worth the price to use them? PFCsilvey
Last reply by silvey19k, -
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Hi All: I am getting close to getting my stroker project running, and am planning to use the 280ZX Turbo AFM that I got with the engine (someone else's project once upon a time). I am swapping the NA electrics into the Turbo AFM, but have noticed two problems, one of which I can solve with solder (differing wire/lead lengths). The other problem is that the '75 has a fuel pump switch tied to the AFM. This means there is a switch on the circuit board and a piece on rotating arm that opens a circuit if the AFM 'door' is closed. The problem is that the Turbo AFM rotating arm piece has a different center diameter for the mount, so I can just swap them and make it all work…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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First off, I have read the fuel injection bible, and searched for about 2 weeks now with no solid answer as of yet... Here is the issue... The car runs rich at all times, warm, cold, you name it. Does not smoke black. Smokes a little grey at times. Idles lopey as though it has a cam (it may for all I know, engine came from a racing zcar that was wrecked I'm told). Will idle ok, and drive for about 20 miles with new plugs. It will then foul the plugs and die will not start again for a few hours. Upon starting, it will barely idle, and will not run well enough to move more than a few feet. Replacing the plugs starts the cycle anew. Inspection of the plugs reveals a heavy …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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78 280Z, 9000 miles on engine rebuilt to stock. Only mods are twice pipes and K+N air intake. While wiping down and inspecting my engine bay I noticed the plastic portion of my original Cold Start Injector (CSI) was slightly loose where it met it's metal base. I've gone too far under the hood to stop now, so I ordered a replacement, although I tempted fate by getting one from Ebay... The new CSI has it's fuel inlet in the correct alignment, however the fuel nozzle (where it enters the intake manifold) is shorter than my original, and the fuel outlet is straight down instead of aft, like my original. I installed it anyway, and the car runs fine through its warm-up cycle, b…
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
- 6 replies
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Hey guys, thanks for taking the time to help me on this issue. I looked at a lot of posts and I just need some general guidance not sure where to start. So I'll tell you the story what happened... My 1975 280z has been running great since I bought it about 2 years ago. Drive it pretty much every week at least a couple of days or more. Changed the spark plugs about 4 months ago which helped the performance a little bit and a k&n filter. That is probably the only thing that is aftermarket on the engine. It all happened after I changed the thermostat. It wasn't letting the coolant in so I replaced that. Probably was overdue. For a couple weeks of driving it would idle ki…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 24 replies
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I have been trying to track down the cause of my stalling problem i have been having when i come to a stop. FastWoman has been helping me get this far, tried cleaning the cold start valve and replaced coolant temp sensor, but need to post some pictures to identify where these two attach, to determine if they could be part of the problem. I think the harness attached to the thermotime switch (which has been disconnected). Does anyone know where the vacuum hose could have been connected to ?
Last reply by kjphilippona,
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