Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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Hi all I was doing some reading and found that a lot of folks have been adding a potentiometer in line with the temp sensor so the efi doesnt keep leaning out the mixture according to temperature. I was reading that the efi runs the most stable with the car at 175 which means keeping the resistor reading at around 300 ohms. If I were to add that and set the 1k resistor to about half, wouldn't that mean it is constantly richening the sensor's reading by 500 ohms? What I'm getting at is my car will run at around 185 idling but 170 on the highway. If I'm looking for the engine to be reading a constant 175, the potentiometer trick would just tell the computer it …
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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- 10 replies
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Hi Guys, I am able to find cold start valve gasket but I have not been able to find the gasket which goes under this port on the throttle body? Any idea? or do i need make one myself?
Last reply by kickstand80, -
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Hey Friends, where can i get this part located on the throttle body. What is it?
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
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Hi all - This is the product of a few different EFI tuning/tricks threads we've been going through as a forum. I always enjoyed how quickly the car starts up in the winter with the cold start valve so I came up with a way to manually trigger the csv which (pretty much) instantly starts the car regardless of the weather. I created a youtube video for the community here cheers, chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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Hi all: I've been under my car off and on for the past couple of years redoing the fuel system. When I disconnected the wiring from the OEM pump, the terminals were covered in what looked like polyester body filler (Bondo), which I had to chisel/sand off. Beneath that were plastic washer-like pieces that appeared to be meant for a cover to snap over after the wiring was connected. I'm thinking that Bondo wasn't factory, lol. What did the factory use for a cover? I looked for some sort of rubber boot, but didn't find anything that looked like it would fit. I could glob on some RTV. But I figured I'd ask here first.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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by looking at old posts i was able to remove and put in new sending unit, o ring and locking ring. 99% sure its all in correct. I am getting ready to attach wiring. Pretty sure the yellow wire with cap goes at top (one with small bit of rubber on stud). Also think the other cap, blackish/redish wire goes to bottom stud. Anyone have an clue what the other 2 wires are for? many thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 4 followers
- 6 replies
- 915 views
Merry CHRISTmas! Slowly moving on our resurrection project which currently has us tackling the fuel tank. I knew we would be in trouble 5-6 years ago when we purchased this project and attempted to drain the tank of a car that had been off the road for about 20 years. The drain plug came out with some slight persuasion but had to get a small phillips screwdriver to poke through and allow the old fuel to drain. The drained tank was removed and set aside in our shop and now we have recently begun to evaluate the tank. The exterior is in excellent condition, factory stampings still visible, lock ring removed quite easily, fuel sender unit intact but rusted solid, and ha…
Last reply by One Way, -
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New member here, so I don't know if this has been covered before. I've found a replacement for the original 280Z 280ZX AAR that works much better, is relatively cheap and best of all it's from Nissan. No more Toyota Cressida valves!! Nissan part # 22660-45P00. These are off a Z32 300zx/early Infiniti J30 and will bolt right on to any 280Z or ZX. One slight modification is that the terminal locating tab on the electrical connection is slightly offset from the original. It's not needed. 5 minutes work with an X-Acto knife or file to remove it and you're done. This is a new style " Rectangular " model that can be easily disassembled for cleaning and has a composite slide…
Last reply by LorenB667, -
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- 1k views
Greetings, new owner of an old 78 280Z 2+2, my 1st post so be gentle..... I put a hole in the filter screen of the fuel pump when I was trying to take it out to clean. Didn't realize it used a screen. Is there a place to buy replacement/alternate filters screen? Would adding an inline fuel filter such as the Fram G3 in front of input nozzle be good enough? NOTE: I search through this forum and ran across a reference to http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html which was where I realized there was a fuel screen. The image below is from the link.
Last reply by jonathanrussell, -
- 4 followers
- 29 replies
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Hey Guys, I hate having to post in the fuel injection section of this forum, because I hate EFI issues, but here we go. I will try to be as detailed as possible. As you know I have had some EFI issues in the past, but I got them all sorted out about a month or two ago and my car was running near perfect. In the past two weeks I have been having an issue where the car will either surge at idle, buck hard under part throttle or hit essentially a rev limiter. Happens damn near randomly, except it has definetly been getting worse over the past few days to the point where it is undriveable as of this morning. I first noticed it about two …
Last reply by kickstand80, -
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Is it possible to improve cold start cranking time? The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc and runs great once its started. It's also worth noting that after the car has started once, it will start considerably quicker the next key turn (demonstrated on the video). Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiT8P_TLuLM My old mechanic said it simply does this because the engine "just takes longer to build pressure than other cars." There are no vacuum leaks (checked with a cigar) but there is oil blowby via either worn piston rings or valve seals (I know that due to there being a small amount of oil on the plugs) but I'm not sure if that could be the reason…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 544 views
I'm getting ready to drive my 280 now that the heat has lowered in Alabama. Anyhow, plans so far are to remove tank plug to drain old fuel then run 2.5 gallon gas can straight to the pump, bypassing the tank. Hopefully the return will let new gas to flow back to the tank and into my catch basin never going through the injectors. I'm thinking Seafoam for those after replacing my 2 fuel filters. The OE can and the G3 out of the tank. Is it that simple? Thanks for any input. I've forgotten more than I remember...
Last reply by siteunseen,
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