Fuel Injection

Hey guys, thanks for taking the time to help me on this issue. I looked at a lot of posts and I just need some general guidance not sure where to start. So I'll tell you the story what happened... My 1975 280z has been running great since I bought it about 2 years ago. Drive it pretty much every week at least a couple of days or more. Changed the spark plugs about 4 months ago which helped the performance a little bit and a k&n filter. That is probably the only thing that is aftermarket on the engine. It all happened after I changed the thermostat. It wasn't letting the coolant in so I replaced that. Probably was overdue. For a couple weeks of driving it would idle ki…

I have been trying to track down the cause of my stalling problem i have been having when i come to a stop. FastWoman has been helping me get this far, tried cleaning the cold start valve and replaced coolant temp sensor, but need to post some pictures to identify where these two attach, to determine if they could be part of the problem. I think the harness attached to the thermotime switch (which has been disconnected). Does anyone know where the vacuum hose could have been connected to ?

I searched all over for this info, forgive me if I missed it. I'm looking to confirm the exact size on the fuel hose used for the fuel pump feed and exit to damper and hardline. I found this picture on AtlanticZ to demonstrate what I'm talking about: I'm looking to get both of the hose sizes represented here. I'm pretty sure it's 3/8", and 5/16", but I'd just like to be sure before I tear it down and empty the lines. I'm doing a Walbro GSL392 inline setup like this using the stock bracket: Thanks in advance.

Some of my near term projects will be to reinstall my gas tank, it is being cleaned boiled, acid washed, sealed, etc. Very soon now I will have it back. And then I have a new bosch fuel pump to install, new inline fuel screen between tank and pump (because the one inside the gas tank got eaten up by the acid I am sure), install new fuel filter, and new injectors too. I also purchased new replacement fuel and fuel injectioon class hoses for the rear of car and engine compartment. I also plan on carefully taking off the fuel rail and soaking it with carb cleaner before sticking in new injectors. My gas tank was totally polluted with a LOT of rust. Im talking about 1/2 de…

Hey everyone. I have a 1980 Datson 280ZX that wont start. It was running great untill one day I went out to start it and just fired up for about 3 or so seconds and then died.. If I let it sit for a few minutes and then try again, it will do the same thing--start for a few seconds then die. So I am thinking two possble problems, either fuel pump or the relay switch. I would have just assumed the pump was the problem, but I have done some reseach and this relay switch keeps coming up in the search results, so I thought Id ask someone who knows. Any other possible problems I am leaving out? I have tested with a test light and verified that there is voltage (when the key…

Some background: I had a recent "event" where the engine shot nearly to WOT at turn of the key (without using accelerator pedal). I shut down the engine, restarted and the car ran like cr*p. Low,rough idle. Missing,poor throttle response. Exhaust smoke like a crop duster. I was only a few miles from home, so I gambled and drove it home, bucking and complaining the whole way. Next day, long story short, I discovered the vane in the AFM was stuck in full open. Touched it and it closed by it's spring power. Cleaned it carefully and it seemed to operate smoothly over the range of movement but it would occasionally stick at the full open position. I put everything back toget…

I am replacing my old injectors and thought about replacing the holders and retainer plates. All the replacement holders look like they are made of plastic, my holders are aluminum. Is there a reason why they were changed to plastic ? should i just clean up my holders if they are not damaged and reuse them ?

75 280Z which when it starts idles low, about 550, once warmed up idle goes to about 1050. I've checked the vacuum and its OK, adjusting the idle when cold to 800 gives a warm idle of about 1250. TB has been cleaned up, thermotine switch changed. I'm a little stumped. Any help will be appreciated.

I have a 75z with a 3.0 piston kit and a bigger cam. I cant get it tuned, it floods during cold starts. I've seen a few post about after market EFI's but I don't know what to look for. Where do I go to get one? what do I get? Thanks ~Rosco~

Im going to be purchasing a really nice 280z from a man who owns a car shop no less. The concerns I have are: I test drove it not to long ago when it was warm, maybe 50-60 Deg. and as I recall it ran fine, just had a Low idle of about 900 and I waited for it to warm up to see where it would settle at with not much of a change. I test drove it again recently in cold weather, 30-40 Deg. and it had some trouble starting at first and idled even worse maybe 500. Also smelled really bad like gas. Now I understand that cold starting causes gas that is in the engine to seep down into the pan with the oil and that the car isnt burnning completely due to the cold. But, the oil I lo…

Made up a generic "How To" on doing a fuel tank removal. Should be generic enough to fit just about all model years with minor differences. webdawg1 Fuel Tank Removal.doc

Is there a device that I can buy to tell me if my 78 Z car is running rich or lean? I see people always talking about that. And I dont mind spending the money on a meter/device that I can hook up, stick in the tailpipe, etc to tell me whats going on. Then I will have good data to post out here too as I work through the myriad of issues to get the car back to specs as closely as possible. THANKS!!!