Fuel Injection

Hello, Noticed the harness to the TV SW disconnected when I bought the car, not running, 2 weeks ago. Started following the SM section EF "Engine will not start." I received no continuity between 2 & 18 (idle) and 3 & 18 (full switch). The harness to SW connection is not tight and both male and female connectors are mildly corroded. 1) I don't understand what the SM means when it says to "Check the circuit indicated by large solid lines in Fig XX." What do you check? 2) Do I replace the harness to get a new female connector? If so where do I get one? 3) Do I replace the TV SW? If so where do I get one? Thanks Robert

I have been replacing 38 yr old fuel lines and now have an annoying problem. I can now hear my fuel pump whine fairly loudly when the engine is started. Like you can hear it over the idle of the engine. What happened: I pulled the stinky supply line from the gas tank to the fuel pump. It appeared to me that the fuel pump inlet was a 1/2'', since my 5/16 line would not fit it and a 1/2 inch would. So I assumed it to be 1/2. Was this old line 2 sizes originally? Got some fuel rated 1/2 line from the Truck supply house since AZ and OR didn't carry that large of lines in stock. Put it on and now I hear the whine . Could this be from a larger fuel line capacity? Or a coinci…

Ok so i have been flowing this other thread for some time. hopping you would find the trouble as my 76 is some what the same. new injectors new csv new plugs and wires ngk new. mine starts right up when cold. but then is running very rich until it warms up it then is still rich i think just not as bad.the other day day i did find something interesting. right after start up when cold it i would remove the oil fill cap it would run better.after it was warm just the opposite. is there any thing to that.not sure how to link this to the other thread?

Im buying a 240z that is getting rust in the fuel from rust that is in the fuel lines, the old tank has been replaced and now the rust that got built up in the lines is working itself out. How big of an issue is this going to be?

Hello guys I resently bought a "new" 77' 280z. I have a problem with it though, when i start it up cold it just dies. When i press the accellerator it revs fine, but it dies when i let go. When the car gets warom it work about perfect, it "jumps a little up and down every now and then. Anyone have any idea what this could be? Also it gets a little hot, i'd say 10 % over the middle of the "temp-meter" Should i be conserned about that? -B

The car has been running really well, but just recently I've been having a strange hesitation at WOT above 4K where it kinda feels like a rev limiter is cutting in. Turns out I was having a fuel starvation issue due to a pre-pump filter that was packed with crud. It was flowing enough to run at moderate throttle, but couldn't supply enough for peak demand. My tank isn't horrible, but clearly there's some rust in there - I swapped out the big one up front, and installed the pre-pump filter when I first got the car. I replace this little guy every couple of months (clearly not frequently enough!) I was also began having starting issues - both times the car was on a severe…

The clip holding the connector onto the AFM on my '78 rusted and broke off, so I need to get some replacements- 2 or 3. I have it on temporarily; it's a good snug connection and I have the cable secured to the sheetmetal. Is there a good source of the clips, besides a replacement connector kit ($20)? Maybe there is a compatible source from another car that you will find at the JY? I wanted to take the connector off every couple years to clean and check the terminals.

Can anyone tell me what the size is for the drain plug on a '76 280z? The service manual doesn't give it. I found this size at hybridz (M16.4 - 1.33) but I'm not sure I trust it.

here you go..

One of my off season projects for this year was to replace my sketchy looking intake duct tube between the AFM and the throttle body. I couldn't see any cracks all the way through, but it's just a matter of time. I know there are aftermarket repros available, but I've always kept my eyes open for other cars that had air intake tract hoses that looked similar to the 280Z. With that in mind, and my never ending quest to find cheap ubiquitous replacements for OEM parts, I nabbed this on off a 2002 Ford Taurus: Here it is compared to the stock connector. The angle is almost perfect, but there are some issues. First, it's a little too long and second, the big end (AF…

I'm having a problem with the throttle return on my 1976 280z. I'm finishing reassembly after a complete restoration of the car and I've run into an issue with my throttle return. Most other Z cars I've seen have a large throttle return spring attached to the linkage on the throttle body and to a post bolted to a bottom screw attaching the throttle body to the intake. My linkage has no hole to attach the spring to and no post attached to the bottom of the throttle body for the spring? Am I missing something? The throttle does not return well at all.

Hi classic-z-car-community,I have some trouble with my 280z engine - it is starting very hard - needs a lot attempts and then runs very weak - after getting warm the engine run is getting better, but takes gas very bad - nearly stopping when cold - and misfiring often ...With the following link you could experience the behavior:https://youtu.be/79MqGnp45u4... the engine run half a hour before, so was not too cold. without this it would need 8-10 start attempts until coming to live ...What did I try hitherto:1. as the fuel pump that was mounted (also not original) whas very loud - I ordered an aftermarket pump from zcardepot.com (https://zcardepot.com/electric-fuel-...80z-…