Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
-
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 567 views
Does anyone know the what the amperage is of the EFI relays (the ones in the plastic bracket clip on the battery-side of the relay bracket? This is the fusible link that comes off of the positive terminal of the battery and not the links that are in the 2 pods with the white caps.
Last reply by chaseincats, -
-
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 2k views
Hi. I have a '72 240Z with a Rebello engine, TWM EFI/etc, and a '76 fuel tank plus an old, used '76 fuel pump. The fuel pump is quite functional but noisy so I wish to replace it with a quieter and perhaps more efficient model. Any ideas?
Last reply by JayZ12, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 746 views
Stock 280Z owners — how noisy is your fuel pump? Can you hear it spin up when you turn on the ignition? Constant running sound while driving? Annoying?
Last reply by JayZ12, -
- 3 followers
- 19 replies
- 1.5k views
Question for you - my friend's AFM's arm is loose in that you can wiggle it back and forth about a millimeter or two. Tuning the car with an AFM is obviously impossible since the resistor arm isn't getting consistent results. I'm guessing there's a bushing in there somewhere that went bad. Can these be opened up, and if so, are the bushings available?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 25 replies
- 2.4k views
Hey gang, My friend picked up a 75 280 and its not running all that great. We found that injectors 5 and 6 have 10.3 volts with the key in 'on' (but not running) but injectors 1-4 have something like 0.3v. According to the FSM, there are two dropping resistors, one that covers injectors 1-4, and one that covers injectors 5-6 so I'm assuming those (or the connectors) would be the problem. I have never heard of those going bad or causing problems though. I thought the injectors were supposed to get 6v after the dropping resistors - anyone know how they could be getting 10.3?
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 3 followers
- 20 replies
- 2.1k views
Greeting, took the 280z 1977 for the smog test and everything passed except the fuel evaporative controls functional. The technician say something about pumping nitrogen into the gas tank and take measure for 2 minutes… he said there must be a leak somewhere that didn’t hold pressure. I don’t smell any gas btw. Is this problem relate to the canister or so I need to replace all fuel lines? much appreciated
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
- 3 followers
- 22 replies
- 2k views
Continuing along my Fuel Injection journey, I had a problem with my cold idle being so low the engine would stall out. So after reading my FSM, and help from here, I deducted it was the Air Regulator Valve, I was able to find one and that did indeed, raise the cold idle engine speed, but now the 1500 cold idle rpms stay high and only after 20 minutes running does it drop to 1000 rpm's and even then I have to stop and raise the hood to get to the idle screw and lower the idle speed down to 800 rpm's. Now I don't see what else would keep the speed at high idle other than perhaps the coolant temperature sender being bad, I am pretty sure I don't have any vacuum leaks, but th…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.9k views
Seems like every time I go looking for something, it hasn't been manufactured in eons, I was able to sort out a part# A22-602-421, but I'm only finding used, and my luck with used electrical parts has been too great ! Anyone know what this little Nissan orphan might be living ?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
I lost the box that my GM HEI module was in, and I forgot to make a record of what I had. My docs say to use a Wells model #DR100 4-pin GM HEI module. Would someone please give some examples of which vehicles had the generic DR100 module? Those kids in the AP stores only know "Make, Model, and Year" to put into a computer. You can't even get a quart of 15W-30 oil for a lawn mower... ThxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
I have spent the last hour looking for a fuel pump to replace mu old pump dropped dead on me today. The FSM states it needs 36PSI, but I'm getting a little confused with some posts. I have the Bosch EFI and a lot of posts refer to Carbureted cars, what is a good quiet fuel pump for a 75 EFI setup ? and I keep looking and damn few marketed pumps state the fuel pressure of their pumps, I need 36PSI , right ? And most I look at seem to be in-tank pumps without and mounting hardware ?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 followers
- 36 replies
- 2.7k views
I think I have narrowed down my faulty cold idle problem with your help and the FSM to a erroneous Air Regulator Valve, but finding a replacement is proving much the task. Every where I look I'm met with "No longer available". . . "Part Discontinued" . . . "Used, Maybe good, Maybe no good". So I thought that perhaps these air regulator valves might be rebuildable ? If so, does anyone know about this, or have you gotten one rebuilt ? If so, by whom and how, and where ? This Nissan #22660-N4210 is an elusive part to find, any help is apricated. 🤥
Last reply by Killain, -
- 3 replies
- 808 views
I have a 75 and the fuel pump runs in the on position I know that is wrong so I started sleuthing. I opened my AFM and I noticed that even when the flap is fully closed the points circled are always making contact. I have read that’s the fuel shutoff switch so it makes sense to me if there was some gap when the flap is fully closed right? If so should I just bend the thicker wire more straight to get some separation?
Last reply by AZDatsun,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.