Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
751 topics in this forum
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I am experiencing fuel pressure leak down in the rate of 36 psi to 0 in less than 10 seconds. I have an aftermarket fuel pump so I put in a check valve right after the pump and now if I clamp the return line the pressure will not bleed down so the check valve is working. As soon as I unclamp the return line the pressure drops to 0. My pressure gauge is right after the front fuel filter before the rail starts. I also disconnected my fuel rail and the injectors are not leaking. I also replaced my FPR and there are no leaks from that. Any ideas why this is happening ?
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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Hey guys, back again to solve another mystery on my 1977 280z California spec coupe. So in short my number 1 cylinder doesn't fire (I have no idea how long it has been like this). Or if it does it is extremely weak. Anyways, the reason I know this is that when I pull the spark plug wire the engine idle does not change noticeably. Also the idle is slightly rough and will surge if I have it anywhere lower than 1000rpm, as well as the car doesn't like full throttle under load. I have also disconnected the fuel injector and that made no change at idle. Disconnected any other cylinder causes the idle to drop very noticeably. So, here are the tests I have ru…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi Friends, Clean gas tank, new bench tested injectors, all new injector connectors, also changed connectors to themo time, temp sensor, cold start valve is new and so is the harness connector. The car runs well after it warms up in 1-2 mins of idle. Cold start is giving me issues, the engine sputter and try to die. If you pump the gas it is uneven, sometimes it suddenly jumps to very high rpm, i mean u really have to keep pumping the paddle to get it running. We are thinking AFM? TPS? or anything else? any experiences you can share?
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
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Hi, I was bench testing an AFM. I get around 225ohm between 6 & 8 and 125ohm between 8 & 9. Has anyone seen this? does it mean it is too much and it requires cleaning and re-calibration? https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html Measure the resistance from the high side to the low side of the pot/copper trace. (Pins 8 and 6). It should read ~180ohm Measure the resistance across the "standard"/"Reference"/"Control" resistor. (Pins 8 and 9). It should read 100ohms
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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The L28 plastic OE joints look like they might dry out and crack one day, so could you replace them with metal ones? Also, can you get new swivels for the firewall ?
Last reply by zKars, -
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- 177 replies
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ey guys! I have a 1977 280z which used to have the California specific emissions tech. I recently "refreshed" the engine after I got it. I completely redid the fuel tank and fuel system from the tank back going as far as to replace all the hoses for the vapor tank as well. I am just going to list off new things. rebuilt fuel injectos new fuel pressure regulator new fuel damper fuel lines fuel pump rebuilt fuel rail rebuilt head and new headgasket all new seals around the engine spark plugs rotor distributor cap plug wires oil pressure sender water temp sendor water pump/…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 80 replies
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need some advice. Apparently i have all the ignition stuff on and was trying to fire up the car. It turns over great it just wont ignite and crank. No idea what the issue is or even could be. Everything is rebuilt and new including new Ztherapy carbs, lines etc. Gas is being pushed from the mechanic fuel pump and all the plugs are sparking good. Could some wires not 100% right at the ignition or ballast cause this? What about bad timing? Any thoughts are welcome
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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77 280z. Apologies for the crusty picture. Is the circled object at the top of the screen a damper or a regulator? And if its a damper, is it adjustable? Struggling with fuel pressure. I have an in-line gauge installed after the fuel filter. When the car is running, fuel is only at ~25PSI (compared to 34-36PSI expected). I took apart this whole section to remove some of the rust and replace the hoses, but I can't remember if I messed with the bolt on the top of the damper (and if it matters).
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Browsing on Motor Sport Auto and saw that they have relabeled their red links to the proper brown, and it looks like they have also derated them to the proper amperage. Yay! Old Z wiring is safer now. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4329 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4336
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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How many of you guys have replaced the fuel rail with either new design or stock?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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About a year ago I experienced hesitation when I had the car on the highway at about 70 mph. I got back home and asked for advice on where to look in the system. I got a response to remove the fuel filter and blow it out with compressed air. I did that and that seemed to be the end of the problem. Now, a couple of weeks back I had the same thing happen, so I got the car back home and took off the fuel filter and did the same thing as before. I got a lot of particulate come out as I emptied the filter and then applied compressed air. I then took the car out the next week and it was worse than before. I took the filter off and got at least as much junk as before. …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 4 followers
- 27 replies
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Really strange thing happened today. I was sitting at a stoplight idling and the car suddenly died. The car runs so smoothly that I didn't even know it was off until I looked at the gauge and saw the e-brake light on. I turned the key and it fired right back up like nothing happened and drove home another 20 miles without issue. This is probably electrical/spark related since if it was fuel the car would have stumbled before it shut off I'd assume. I popped the hood when I got back to see if anything was loose then checked under the dist cap to see if the pickup coil was chewed up at all and everything looks perfect. Any ideas where to start?
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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