Interior
Discussions about the interior components of your early Zcar.
2,368 topics in this forum
-
- 30 replies
- 11.9k views
Those with stock 1977/1978 280z hatch area, how easy it is for you to access your hidden/secret/weed compartment (the two behind the seats in the hatch floor)? My Z hatch area is stock, which has the wooden floor boards under the carpet. The floor board over the spare wheel is liftable, and is attached to the board covering the hidden compartments by hinges. The board that is covering the hidden compartments are bolted down onto the hatch floor. It seems for me to access the hidden compartments, I would have to remove the entire carpet, then unbolt the entire wooden floor board. This doesn't sound very practical, unless I'm doing something wrong. Thx.
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
-
- 9 replies
- 2.6k views
I have a 71 240Z. Most cars have something (cowboard,etc.) under the headliner. My headliner was glued directly to the metal. That is the way it was supposed to be glued isn't it? It took alot of heat. I want to put insulation (fatmat,etc.) under headliner. What adhesive do I use between insulation and headliner? Really good adhesive. Thanks alot
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 6 replies
- 1.8k views
I just received my restored belts back from Ssnake Oyl products and they look good. I will post a photos on my tread documenting the restoration of the retractable belts. I noticed and did not document prior to shipping them out one way or the other the following and wondered if someone with original retractable seat belts could check it out for me. The left belt white label is face down when stretched across your lab and the top of the label is up (toward roof), the right belt is also face down when stretched across the lap but the label is top down (toward floor). Is the consistent with original installation of the labels?
Last reply by CDM, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
In the 280Z Owner's Manual, it mentions a "Comfort Clip" when you can use to keep a little slack in the seat belt while wearing it. Is there really such a thing? FWICT, There are similar things that you can use for securing baby seats, or I could make one from some light metal, I think it has a shape like an H or
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 15 replies
- 1.9k views
I installed a full face dash cover a few years back. Wish I knew then what I found out today. I was going to pull all the gauges and remove the white faces I put on them. I want them back to original. But I can't get the tach or speedo out. They are hitting the lip of the full face dash cover as I try pulling them out. There is about a 1" lip all around the inside of the opening keeping me from pulling them all the way out. Anyone else have this issue and have a solution besides removing the dash cover? It is glued down.
Last reply by Jameson, -
- 13 replies
- 3.6k views
The driver side scuff plate on my 75 280Z(manufact. 7/75) is toast. I've been told that the plates sold by BD and Courtesy for 240Z will fit, and also been told that they won't fit. All the pics I've seen for the 280 show a straight plate, but mine has an arc cut at the back to fit the wheel well. Anybody got an answer?
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 3.2k views
The interior diamond vinyl in my 1970 car is in good condition but, there is a place on the transmission tunnel vinyl where it touches the floor where it looks as if some oil or something similar has come in to contact with it and has dried, and the vinyl has gone 'stiff', and the edge has 'curled up'. If I was to tried to flatten it out I think it would split/tear. Does anyone know of a way to clean up the vinyl so that it becomes soft again.? As always, any help gratefully received Andrew
Last reply by Dr. 240Z, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
I have my annual restoration on process (here winters are LOOONG and DARK, so might as well dismantle the car and do something about it) and i wonder could i "revive" those old vinyls somehow? Especially ones over the wheel arch, i'd love to soundproof the area but those vinyls are so stiff and dry that i fear i would destroy them when trying to remove. If there is some safe way to remove them, is there any way to make them nice and soft again? (im not buying repros)
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 1 follower
- 91 replies
- 19.8k views
I just finished fixing a stripped out shift knob for another Z owner and after messing with his wooden shift knob, I decided that I liked it. While I had his original wooden knob in the shop as an example, I figured I would try my hand at fashioning myself a new knob. Here's a shot of my new knob in process: And here is the trio... My faux leather black plastic, the wooden knob I just made, the original wood knob I just fixed: I'm no woodworker, and know pretty much nothing about finishes, etc. Any woodworkers in the house that can provide some input into stains, finishes, etc? Can anyone tell what type of wood and finish was used on the original? I used some light…
Last reply by bpilati, -
- 15 replies
- 2.5k views
Never had this happen before, but I only get heat on one side of the interior. I'm not talking forced air- I have that both sides. Air only comes out warm on the passenger side. I think there can only be one explanation for this - half the heater core is clogged. Anyone else experience this? I was going to try and backflush the core so I don't have to remove it- any suggestions?? I googled this and read somewhere that the person forced water through the core in the opposite direction and loosened junk up in there.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 1 follower
- 31 replies
- 13.5k views
Hey guys! I'm finally get the Z painted and I'm doing some things in the meantime. I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction on how to refinish/restore the aluminum kick/threshold plate for my 73' 240Z. This is the plate that is at the bottom of the door on both sides and says "Datsun". I don't have any bench tools or anything, so simple would be best I have tried simple green and a scotch bright pad with no luck. I would REALLY like them to shine tho, so if I can't do that with simple tools, does anyone know a place that could do it for me on the cheap? I'm in Orange County, CA :-) Much appreciated!
Last reply by ktm, -
- 11 replies
- 3.6k views
i have to remove my seats to repair the seat bottoms. the webbing has broke. what's the best way to remove them. all one piece out the door or out the hatch, or should i detatch the backs and remove? i fear ripping the interior with the bolts from the seat bottoms. tia
Last reply by zhead240,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
