Wheels & Brakes

well just to let anybody know if they are looking at these tires I put about 20 miles on them and all I can say is very smooth and handle great!!!.I told my wife when I came home it just made my 1974 z ride like a 20 year newer car.tire size I went with is a 205/65/15 speed rated v .I wanted to stay with my other size 215/60/15 but cooper only offered them in a h rated speed. so I stepped up to the 205/65/15 for the v rated. my old tires were dunlap sport a2 with only about 2000 miles on them in the 10 years I owned them.I am so happy with these tires maybe I will start to drive the car more . I hope this helps anybody who might be looking at the coopers cs4.by the way…

Anyone ever use these adapters for the 5-lug conversion on a S30? I would like to use these but want to make sure it does not have an adverse affect on my car. http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Adapter_4_Lug_4_5_To_5_Lug_4_5_p/4450-5450.htm

Figure out, 300ZX has two bleed points for clutch.

I am doing the Modern Motorsports 240SX rear caliper swap on my 240Z and want to use the 15x7 American Racing Ansen Sprint slotted wheels. MSA sold these wheels as "Flashbacks" for awhile. Is anyone here using this brake and wheel combination? Any fitment issues? Thanks Miles

Thought these were kind of cool, so I decided to post them up in case anyone's interested. They look very similar to a7dz's wheels, which I've always admired. http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1412707165.html Don't know if the wheel specs quoted in the ad are correct (8.5" width?), I would want to verify. Gary S.

I have 2 classic Shelby Viper wheels that I have had for years. They are 14" x 5-1/2" with 0 offset. 4 bolt Is anyone familar with these wheels and have any idea of their value? no curb rash - just some oxidation that needs cleaning up. I am thinking of selling them to free up space in the garage and would just like some advice. I do know these are rare. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

Yesterday we managed to open up stuck rear brakes. After that my mechanic friend bleeded the system but no pressure on brakes. I made a little run on the yard and if i pump brake several times quick, it'll stop but if i press just once nothing happens. So is this caused by bad master cyl or does master vac got something to do with this?

I'm looking for a new set of wheels for 1980 280ZX. Stock are the spoke magnesium type flaking very badly. Not sure of wheel width. Any ideas? Tire size is 195/70/R14. Want a No modification solution with sticky tires. Street use only, but I like to drive somewhat hard at times.

Don't worry, I'm not asking about what order in which to bleed calipers/drums. I'm pretty sure this hasn't been asked before, I've done quite a bit of research. I won't have all the parts I need by the weekend to complete the whole end-to-end job, but I wonder about whether I can start it. My questions are: 1) Is there any reason I cannot check/adjust the booster push rod and bleed both the master cylinder and the warning light splitter block this weekend and then get to the calipers/drum cylinders when I've got all the parts on hand? 2) Is there a preferred order of bleeding for the MC and the warning light splitter block? I plan on bleeding each part at each bleeder…

The prices for replacement factory rotors are all over the board, and I'm not sure where the threshold of "you get what you pay for" becomes significant. Napa has them for $64 each, MSA has them for $47 each, tons of websites have them from $29 up to $87 each. I'm not looking for anything slotted or otherwise, just regular OE rotors. Thanks, everyone.

hi everyone, i'm new to this site been looking around for sakura rims can anybody show me links where can i buy them?:paranoid: greatly appreciate thanks

So, I'm getting back around to finishing the brake project that I started oh so long ago. I'm going to clean out all the lines and everything, and I'm wondering how I need to clean the proportioning valve and the fault warning light switch. Should these just be blown through with compressed air and isopropyl alcohol or do they need to be disassembled? If so, are there replacement (rebuild) parts available?