Wheels & Brakes
Discussions about different wheel & tire combinations and the affects on a Zcar.
2,066 topics in this forum
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Saw these on Spokane CL this evening. Seems a bit optimistic to me but ......... perhaps someone has an interest? American Racing Wheels
Last reply by LeonV, -
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I drove my car for the first time since September tonight after rebuilding the front and rear suspension and redoing the entire brake system. The brakes are underwhelming. The pedal is heavy but with enough pressure will lock up the brakes. I don't think the booster is working at all. The pedal does not soften if you start the car while holding the brakes. So my questions are: How do you test the brake booster and what should the brakes feel like? I know feel is subjective but I'm wondering if stiff brakes are normal for an almost 40 year old car.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I thought I'd post some information on a new Wilwood MC (model 260-8794) that I just installed. I know that some of this ground has been covered but I ran into some things that were not covered so I thought this could help clarify. Also, its one of the few times I had my camera so I took some pics. 2 months ago I replaced the brake booster on my '73 (which has an 8.5" booster and the front brake reservoir in the rear, rear in the front). At that time I noticed some seepage near the MC's plunger seal, so I thought I'd swap out the master. Since I don't have time to upgrade the brakes now, but I want to in the future, I figured the excess fluid capacity would be a benef…
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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Is the connection between the brake booster and master cylinder supposed to be gasketed? I'm sorry if this is a dumb question. Thanks.
Last reply by ksechler, -
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I am having a heck of a time finding aluminum wheel spacers for my race car. I've got a set of minilite wheels that I want to run, but the offset/backset is off 1/2". I initially ordered some Baer spacers from Summit, but the center hole was too small. There are a lot of spacers for 5 lug wheels, but not so much for 4 lug. Also, when I search, I get a lot of sites that sell wheel adaptors, which is not what I need. Any ideas?
Last reply by tamo3, -
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Sometimes I just want to scream when I hear the word 'upgrade' thrown around when it comes to cars. 'I upgraded my brakes with Toyota 4Runner calipers" GAG! No you didn't they're a hell of a lot more unsprung weight and you didn't change the rotor to a vented rotor to get the heat out. Now this is an upgrade!
Last reply by conedodger, -
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I accidentally bought the 15/16" BMC for an '83 280ZX, not realizing the bolt-on upgrade was the '79-'81 part. Shame on me for not researching enough. While I have this here (and because Rock Auto doesn't have anything readily available), has anyone modified a later 15/16" BMC to fit a 240z booster? It looks as though I could potentially dremel out the BMC to make the 2 screws align, but I'm not sure what would happen with the top 2... Thanks in advance.
Last reply by ksbeta, -
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I would like to find out what others are doing for a spare tire after installing brake rotors requiring 15" minimum wheels. Thanks, Dave. '72 240z
Last reply by Nigel, -
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Hi All, I decided to compare master cylinder area to total caliper piston areas for common Z part combinations and apply hydraulic principals. Note: The total caliper area is the area summation for all pistons in both calipers. From the data, it is clear to the Sumitomo 4 pot (Toyota S12-8) caliper upgrade has minimal area change from stock (2%) thus there is no significant change in required pedal pressure nor pedal travel. With reference to the table, the common upgrade to a 15/16" master and S12-8 calipers will increase pedal pressure by 11% but reduce pedal travel by 11%. For a 240z or 260z, this will reduce pedal travel from 140mm to 126mm (which is what an 82 2…
Last reply by Nigel, -
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71 240z with triple webers (low vacuum source) and a refreshed stock brake booster. The master cylinder was changed to a new one (7/8" dia) and the calipers were changed to 4 piston Toyota's. The pedal pressure is fairly hard which I think is due to the low vacuum and larger caliper piston area. I am thinking that finding 3/4" master and maybe increasing the booster to a 280z 8.5" will help. Any suggestions, comments? Where can I source a 3/4" master?
Last reply by doradox, -
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I had 2 of my tires replaced at work today (at a Honda dealer) and when I was cleaning the wheels up to put them back on the car I found they messed with the valve stems and apparently destroyed the seals. These are the bent valve stems Any source for new stems or at least new seals? will something like this work? MC Enterprises Tubeless Tire Angled Valve Stem 945 : Amazon.com : Automotive or this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-vs403c
Last reply by ta240, -
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I single flared my brake lines! Some of you out there are probably shaking your heads and thinking, "amateur". You're absolutely right! For those of you that are thinking, "so what", you need to double flare the brake lines! I discovered my mistake by creating an EPA site in my garage when I tried to fill the system and the fluid leaked out onto the floor. Running the brake lines was a big enough pain. Doing it again because of inadequately preparing for doing the job right was even worse. So have a laugh at my expense. Hopefully by posting my shame I may be able to prevent another amateur from making the same mistake.
Last reply by Wade Nelson,
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