Wheels & Brakes
Discussions about different wheel & tire combinations and the affects on a Zcar.
2,066 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
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In my ongoing tear down of supension and brakes, the rear cylinders were no fun. I have never come across such rusted corroded cylinders. The brake pipe was rusted in solid and after a few days of pb blaster would not move. I resorted to the dual vice grip approach since I bought some pipe to bend and am replacing all parts. I imagine all my braking was being handled by the front after seeing this:
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I have been in the process of refreashing my 72 z. I bought it new and now it's time to redo to make it run again. I have tried to rebuild the master cylinder and think I have made some error. The real error I guess is trying to rebuild vs buying a new Master Cylinder but I have faith that a rebuild should work. Anyway I replaced the rubber parts on the shafts and reinstalled everything but now I cannot get anything to come out of the F port. (port to the rear of the cylinder) Also I may have put the springs on incorrectly. Does anyone know which spring goes in the front (in first) - the two are of different strenths (the black one is stronger). Also do I…
Last reply by Harry Walker, -
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[h=2]Brake Line Drawings 1972 to 1978 from FSM's[/h]
Last reply by Gary in NJ, -
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In trying to work out the kinks of my rear 280zx disc swap, I decided to see if my reaction disk had fallen off in to the booster, indeed it had. I JB welded the reaction disk back the "plunger" and now my brakes have gone from mushy and then grabby at the end of the pedal throw to what I consider extremely firm with little pedal travel. The car brakes ok, but I feel if I had a little more pedal throw it would grab a lot better. I pulled the vacuum line between the check valve and the booster and the check valve was whistling, could that be bad? Now I don't know what to check next.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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So I have been searching threads and trying every suggestion and idea to get rid of the front end shimmy on my 73 240Z, and all I have managed to do is move the speed range at which the steering wheel vibration comes and goes. So last night a friend and I went after the problem with a vengeance. We first took the rotors and wheels off the front and put them on the road force balancer he uses to do his race car tires. This machine is the hooptie, you can spin the tires really fast and then test the balance by applying pressure to the tire as it spins, really cool. Front right was 1/2 oz. out by its self, and 1.25 oz out with the rotor attached. We stripped off the weights …
Last reply by Co0kieduster, -
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Hi All After a complete suspension/brake/bearing/seal/bushing project on my 73, I have an odd problem with brake pedal travel. When I apply the brakes from moderate speed, the pedal doesn't engage until it is approximately even with the gas pedal. At that point the brakes work well but the side of my foot hits the gas. This didn't happen before all the work I had done. When the car stops, if I pump the brakes once the pedal height returns to "normal" which is about .5 inches higher than the gas. This is where the pedal used to engage. The calipers have been completely rebuilt, master cylinder has been changed (even though a new one was installed two years ago), pads ch…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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I compiled this a table of tire sizes vs. speedometer error for my tire selection and decided to expand and post it on the board for those who might be interested. The data sources are Tire Rack.com and Tires-n-Wheels.com. For my new 15x7 panasports, I'm thinking of Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position tires. My use will be street and highway driving with the occasional, (maybe 2x yearly), fun-run autocross. Any comments or suggestions? Julio 1972 240Z (restoration in-process)
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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The original 75mm spun aluminum "cup" center caps are long in the tooth.... like that cracked tire. Any suggestions for a nice centre cap to make the wheel look nicer? The hole dia is 2.97" / 75mm.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I topped up the fluid level in the rear brake reservoir about a month ago. Today, it's down about 3/4" (about halfway between the low and high marks). I removed the rear wheels- no obvious signs of leakage. I traced the brake line forward to the tranny and from the engine back- no leakage apparent. It's too greasy around the tranny to tell anyway. The rear brakes were completely redone about 2 years ago, new wheel cylinders, shoes, etc. the pedal feels the same as usual. It has been some months since I had the Z out on the read. Any ideas? Thanks.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I'm going to get the xxr 527's and was wondering if 225/50/15 would be a good fit on 15x8.25, I bought illuminas and tokico springs, will i get any rub? Also would i get any rub on 16x8.25 with 225/50/16(not sure what the right size should be). Thanks
Last reply by Reverend, -
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These are some wheels my dad has and wants them gone. He bought his '72 Z brand new and has a ton of parts lying around in the garage that need to be gone now! they are in great condition but i have no idea what they go for. It is the wheel and hub cap. I saw a set of hubcaps on Ebay going for 245 plus shipping but people are crazy with their prices on there sometimes. Can anyone help me with this? thanks
Last reply by Arne, -
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hello all, i've been searching and can't find any solutions... i am not familiar with working on brakes, but i disconnected one of my break lines and when re-installing it i was told i had to bleed the brakes, so i pumped the pedal while my dad was under the car opening the bleeder and closing, starting at the rear passenger side to the driver back to the rear driver to the front passenger... the pedal started feeling tighter and how it normally did...but when i start the car the pedal goes loose and im able to easily slam it to the floor...while its on if i keep pumping the brake pedal i feel it getting tighter, but as soon as i stop and push it again, it goes back to be…
Last reply by raltz,
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