Wheels & Brakes

2,066 topics in this forum

1. 

   Clutch fork pressure needed

   November 1, 2010 by underdog

   • 1 reply
   • 1.3k views

   Just started a restoration on my 78 280 that was been up on blocks for several years. Need to rebuild the clutch hydraulics which is in progress but tried to manually cycle the clutch fork while the slaved cylinder is off to see if the throwout bearing is frozen. Anybody have any idea how much force on the end of the fork to move the throwout bearing. I tied probably around 30 pounds using a long pole from under the front of the car with no luck. Didn't want to bend anything internal. Thanks in advance

   

   Last reply by kerii, March 16, 2011
2. 
   
3. 

   Drivers side wheel bearing install

   March 13, 2011 by Zedyone_kenobi

   • 2 replies
   • 2k views

   Well I managed to remove and install my drivers side rear wheel bearings in the course of one week. Which is a blistering pace. Everything went smoothly except for two things. First, I have heard some advice on how to get the big freaking nut off the stub axle. All of it good I am sure, but I can tell you one way NOT to do it. DO not take the easy way out and use an impact wrench to get the peened nut off. Yes it will come off in a a matter of seconds with little to no effort on your part, BUT, and here is the but, it will gall the holy hell out of the last two threads of your axle. Ask me how I know this . Well the machine shop I took to get my bearing pressed on w…

   

   Last reply by ajmcforester, March 14, 2011
4. 

   Tire size...PLEASE HELP!

   March 8, 2011 by mark81

   • 6 replies
   • 1.9k views

   I just bought a new set of wheels for my '73 240z. The fronts are 16x7 with a +15 offset and the rears are 16x8 with a 0 offset. I'm trying to figure out what size tires my car will accomodate without rubbing on the suspension and steering components. I was thinking 205-215/50 in the front and 225-235/50 in the rear. Would that work? I had a guy at a tire shop tell me to put the new wheels on and lower the car down on wooden blocks then take measurements but I'm hoping someone has encountered these wheel sizes and can save me some time. The car currently sits at stock ride height but I may lower it an inch. Would that effect the tire size as well? Thanks

   

   Last reply by mark81, March 10, 2011
5. 

   wheel/tire/suspension pics 1 2

   March 2, 2011 by spdcrazy

   • 19 replies
   • 9.5k views

   i have found some good pics to help the fiance decide what she wants for our 77 280z, but options with a spec sheet is seeming to be hard to find. can ya post a side view picture of your Z with different size wheels and different ride heights as well? personaly i'm thinking of a 16x8 and lowered about an inch, but i gotta keep telling myself its her car, not mine!!!

   

   Last reply by ktm, March 6, 2011
6. 

   aftermarket hupcaps?

   March 2, 2011 by zhead240

   • 3 replies
   • 1.3k views

   on a certain auction site a seller has a hupcap which in his description says is left untouched so as to prove it is not aftermarket. is there such a thing as an aftermarket hupcaps. i've never hear of or seen them before. ps- referring to 240 d or z caps

   

   Last reply by Mike B, March 2, 2011

   • 
7. 

   Period correct wheels 1 2 3

   February 20, 2011 by idoxlr8

   • 30 replies
   • 12.1k views

   Looking for some aftermarket wheels for my 260. Can anyone tell me what styles would be period correct? I like the look of the Konig rewinds but not sure these would let me qualify for collector plate status here in BC. Thanks Dean

   

   Last reply by Jeff G 78, February 28, 2011
8. 

   Wheel identity

   February 5, 2011 by Scaotty

   • 6 replies
   • 2.2k views

   Anyone know what wheels these are?

   

   Last reply by d240zx2, February 28, 2011
9. 

   New tires=empty wallet 1 2 3

   February 4, 2011 by IdahoKidd

   • 28 replies
   • 4k views

   Bought a set of 195/70/14's for Otto today. Only size available to fit the car in a 200 mile radius. $472 bucks! Ho Lee Kee Rap! I worked at a tire store for years in the 80's and felt bad when it broke the $200 mark. 7 bucks for a metal valve stem?? Some song and dance about tariffs on Chinese tires. But, it did drive better, all 3/4 of a mile home. The old Aqua Treads were just over 20 years old and had been setting for at least the last 16. Couldn't get the flat spots out and the dry rot in the grooves made me nervous, but $472?? Ugh!

   

   Last reply by sblake01, February 27, 2011
10. 

    aftermarket ac delco parking brake cable question

    July 10, 2010 by MEZZZ

    • 7 replies
    • 4.6k views

    I bought an aftermarket parking brake cable from Rockauto,com I couldnt justify the $300 + for a stock one from MSA, the aftermarket was around $65. My question lies with the springs that came with it. The stock cable has the springs aft of the clevis pin. The replacement had the springs inside a plastic bag. The clevis pins are groved on the side for the cable to slide through. I cannot figure out how I am supposed to get the spring on the cable. It is too small in diameter to fit over the pressed fitting on the cable end. Any ideas?

    

    Last reply by yor5150, February 27, 2011
11. 

    Steel wheel restoration question...

    February 17, 2011 by kjohnson2444

    • 4 replies
    • 1.9k views

    I just took my original steel wheels to the body shop to have them restored. They are the early type that are painted silver on the inside and black on the outside. Am I wrong to have them painted all black?

    

    Last reply by kjohnson2444, February 19, 2011
12. 

    Ceramic Brake Pads

    October 25, 2003 by Daniel

    • 3 replies
    • 1.7k views

    Yesterday I learned of a fairly new product.Ceramic pads.They look like the standard pad except are suppose to be more rotor friendly and the best is they put off VERY little dust.The wheel had not been washed in a month of daily driving.You could not see any dust and rubbing your finger across it ,it was hardly there.Anyone else hear of these?

    

    Last reply by d240zx2, February 18, 2011
13. 

    Brake Booster Checkout 1 2 3

    December 2, 2010 by Zedyone_kenobi

    • 26 replies
    • 6.5k views

    I decided to run some diagnostics on my Z brakes booster and check valve system yesterday. The FSM states you should remove the check valve that runs from the manifold to the brake booster and check it for leak down and flow through. Well mine passed. Then it said to measure the leak down of the brake booster after the cars engine has been shut down. The process is described as such: Install a vacuum gage after the check valve but before the brake booster. Test 1 has you run the engine until the vacuum gage reads 19.7 in Hg. Then turn off the engine and monitor the gage for 25 seconds or so and the vacuum drop should be less than .987 in Hg (or thereabouts). My car …

    

    Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, January 31, 2011