Wheels & Brakes
Discussions about different wheel & tire combinations and the affects on a Zcar.
2,066 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
- 1.9k views
These used to be on my father's 260 but were sold off at some time in the past...does anybody recognize them/know where I can get some?
Last reply by WingZr0, -
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- 7 replies
- 2k views
These were in the back of my Z when I bought it, in basically unknown condition. I'm searching to see if I can find any information on them, but I don't recognize any of the manufacturer marks (which isn't saying much ) There is a very visible small mark saying XA494, and a second set of fainter larger marks which as best I can tell read: RSM 15 50 X14 CO ENGLAND D S
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
So I found the stubby acorn nut I've been looking for at a local junk yard. It didn't come off its parent push rod easily, and I want to ask about whether I did things the right way or not before I attempt the same method on my own car when installing the part. It seems that the knurled part of the push rod does not actually separate from the push rod the way a set nut would. I had envisioned it (based on the FSM) being a set nut that you crack loose and then move the acorn nut as needed. I ended up simply grabbing the knurling as best I could and using a 7mm wrench to remove the acorn nut with mild resistance. Is this correct? I couldn't for the life of me get the …
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
- 1 reply
- 3.8k views
I turned in my old brake booster core for a new one two weeks ago. Unfortunately, I left that shim that goes between the booster and the MC on the old core. Anyone know where I can get hold of one of those? Thanks, Rich
Last reply by motorman7, -
- 9 replies
- 2.8k views
I am looking for a way to bleed my brakes without resorting to the old 2 person pump and wrench technique. From what I have read on this forum the Potive Products Power Bleeder looks like a good way to go. Does anyone know if the Power Bleeder "Round Universal Bleeder 0101" will fit a 240Z? The application chart says that it should fit but I wanted to hear from someone who can attest to how "universal" this unit really is.
Last reply by steve91tt, -
- 0 replies
- 1k views
The prices for replacement factory rotors are all over the board, and I'm not sure where the threshold of "you get what you pay for" becomes significant. Napa has them for $64 each, MSA has them for $47 each, tons of websites have them from $29 up to $87 each. I'm not looking for anything slotted or otherwise, just regular OE rotors. Thanks, everyone.
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
- 12 replies
- 9k views
I was putting in my new eibach springs and tokico blues and I broke the hard brake line at the top of the rear wheel well. To even get the threads to come out it required an oxy acetylene torch to heat to red hot hod, smoking and boiling brake fluid before it would come loose. When it cooled off it froze together again with rust, and broke the hard line when moving out of the rubber hose threads. I can't disconnect the other end without breaking it. The oxy torch couldn't even loosen it, and the gas lines are so close to the valve at the rear that is not safe to torch. Every single bolt on my car required an oxy torching to red hot before it would budge. The ones that…
Last reply by Z-Luke, -
Negative offset 1 2 3
by Diseazd- 30 replies
- 12.5k views
All of my Panasports (3 sets) are "0" offset. When the car is lowered there is a lot more room on the inside strut side to go wider with the rim and tire size. How do you go about taking a wheel from "0" offset to say -10mm? Who would you take it to and can it be done?
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
- 13 replies
- 4.4k views
Hey guy, I'm trying to upgrade my old OEM rubber brake lines to SS brake lines. The problem is that the old rubber brake line just wont unscrew off the hard metal tube that comes form the master cylinder. I really don't want to damage the hard line or the little S- shaped hard line that are connected together using the rubber tube. I am scared that if i apply any more force i'll end up rounding out the little 10mm nut at on the hard line side. What would be the best solution to get the little piece of flex runner tube out without damaging the hard lines. Here are a few pictures of my brake lines:
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
- 5 replies
- 1.7k views
How important are the floats in the brake master cylinder reservoirs? Actually, from what i've seen in diagrams, there are whole pieces of my m/c gone- the filters, etc under the caps. The remaining black rubber float looks like a burned up marshmallow. If I can just take it out and feel like I don't have anything to stress out about these parts not being there, i'd be stoked. Flushing it all out and bleeding tomorrow to see if we can get away with that rather than install a new m/c, but have a brand new one (sans soft parts and reservoirs) ready to go if necessary. The one on it doesn't look too bad but, of course, hard to tell by looking how well it's working. Oh yeah…
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
Hello all, i have this set of wheels from my 260 and was wondering if anyone has seen them and know what they are. Also Im missing a center cap from one so I guess Im also looking for a source for that. Thanks
Last reply by restorin260, -
- 0 replies
- 969 views
Don't worry, I'm not asking about what order in which to bleed calipers/drums. I'm pretty sure this hasn't been asked before, I've done quite a bit of research. I won't have all the parts I need by the weekend to complete the whole end-to-end job, but I wonder about whether I can start it. My questions are: 1) Is there any reason I cannot check/adjust the booster push rod and bleed both the master cylinder and the warning light splitter block this weekend and then get to the calipers/drum cylinders when I've got all the parts on hand? 2) Is there a preferred order of bleeding for the MC and the warning light splitter block? I plan on bleeding each part at each bleeder…
Last reply by BTF/PTM,
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