Wheels & Brakes
Discussions about different wheel & tire combinations and the affects on a Zcar.
2,066 topics in this forum
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Hello All, When removing my Datsun 240z 1973 Equalizer, the bolt that connects the Equalizer to the hand brake assembly bent. It appears to be a unique item and I don't see it listen on any of the Z-car shops I know of. I know it is M6 but all the heads I see at Ace hardware are too big to fit into the equalizer. Curious if anyone has had this problem and found a solution. Thank you for your time.
Last reply by YZFMax, -
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I had an issue with a stuck rear brake drum, with the drum stuck to the hub, and not to the shoes. I tried hammering, PB Blaster, heat gun - all to no avail. I tried to borrow a puller that Autozone seemed to have, but couldn't locate one. I ended up buying what I think is the same tool from Amazon (Astro 78830). This did the trick. I wrapped a ratchet strap around the tool jaws to make sure they would not slide off. I couldn't wrap it around the drum, as is recommended, because the fins caused the strap to slide off. It took a fair amount of impact-wrenching before the drum popped off with a loud snap. Hope this helps someone in the future.
Last reply by Roberts280Z, -
After much looking, I think I want to find a set of Rota RKR wheels in 15". Thinking 8" is the right width for my slightly lowered (see photo) '72 240Z (unmodified fenders). I'd consider 9" if I was sure it wouldn't be too restrictive (rubbing, etc.). Upgrading from the 14" mags that are on it now. Anybody know the best place to buy these? I'm in SoCal if it matters.
Last reply by Grubb240Z, -
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I am struggling to get sufficient brake pressure at the front calipers on a 72 240Z. I have a rebuilt booster, new master cylinder, new (rebuilt) calipers at both wheels. The rear drum brakes work. After much work and brake bleeding, I have fluid at both front calipers. However, when the brake pedal is pressed, the cylinder pistons don't move at all. I would suspect that I have a leak somewhere that doesn't allow sufficient pressure to engage the brakes but I don't see any fluid leaking anywhere in the system. Any ideas/thoughts welcome.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hello all, I am struggling to remove the clips that hold the E-Brake cable, mostly because the rear diff is in the way. The clip itself appears to be original and thus significantly stuck. I am curious if you had any success removing the clip and if so, did you need to remove the rear diff to do so? Im having a hard time getting a lot of leverage under the clip, car is only on stands. Thank you for your time.
Last reply by Racer X, -
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Hi all. So when I got my 71 Z (12/70) last month the brakes were weak, barely working, after sitting for a few decades. Removed rusted front rotors and had them cut, rears were fine, replaced hoses. Drained old fluid, while bleeding the front brakes, I found that the MC front reservoir cylinder almost empty. Filled and bled, sure enough again, front reservoir was low.. Seems that when the Nissan dealer replaced the M/C back in 1986, they used the newer style. However they didn’t swap the lines.. Pedal still had little pressure, only the rears seem to be grabbing, very spongy. Guess it’s time for a replacement. Am looking to keep everything as original as possible.…
Last reply by bluez, -
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I have a 240Z. The brakes work fine, but I can't understand the bleeding process. Why is the bleeder screw on the rear drums at the bottom of the assembly? Old Chevs and even back to DKWs I've worked on always had the bleeder at the top, which makes sense, because air rises and we want to get it out of the system. What am I missing here? Thanks
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Dear Datsun Brethren I try from time to time to come to the aid of all manner and nature of Datsun people, and last weekend I had the good (cough cough) fortune to work on a 69 Datsun Roadster. It had leaking brake lines after replacement, and I was able to assist the owner with the repair. Something about "just tighten the nut more. It won't break"... But along the way, I discovered something that we need to be aware of as righteous Z owners. Chances are it will never happen to you, or me, but you need to know. As part of the trouble shooting, the owner of said Roadster brought a spare "Switch - Brake", you know, that safety brake light switch block o…
Last reply by zKars, -
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In reassembling my, now, 50-year-old, early '72, HLS30-46372, build date 9/71, I've run across an issue with this device, which is supposed to warn if there is a significant pressure differential between the front and rear brakes. I cleaned up the part and noted that while I can see daylight looking into the front brake line inlet (air will easily flow in that port and then out the other two front brake line ports), I cannot see daylight looking into the rear inlet port. I don’t know if there’s simply gunk clogging the channel or whether there’s something more substantial blocking it (the piston?). To compound my problem, my device looks nothing like the illustrati…
Last reply by Seppi72, -
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I just had my front brake rotors resurfaced due to some pulsating while braking. Disassembly requires disconnecting the hydraulic line from each caliper on my setup (older wilwood arizona z car kit). I put everything back together with fresh pads and flat rotors this weekend and started bleeding the lines, but I hear an air "breathing" noise when pumping the petal. Here is a video of me pumping the brakes https://imgur.com/a/w5kBNBj. Please excuse my fumbling with the pedals, it's hard to video and pump the brakes while standing on one leg. The brake petal also won't stay firm. It will firm up when you pump it, but get soft after a bit of doing nothing. The petal was firm…
Last reply by Ninjaneer11, -
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I'm now the keeper of a 74 260Z that has spent the last 20 years in a friend's garage. The tires have been leaking air and I discovered why - the date code says they were made in the spring of 1982! Looks like there isn't much available to replace the 175-14 that are on it, and the forums suggest an easy fix is to get new 15x7 rims and some more modern tires. Any advice on brands or sizes of either rims or tires is very welcome. Thanks, Dennis
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I had a leak in the brake line on the rear reservoir on the master cylinder to the brake indicator assembly. A new master cylinder was installed months ago. Once I installed a new brake line with new fittings the leak was fixed. I refilled the reservoir and started the car up and pumped the brake to make sure nothing was leaking. At this point I didn’t bleed the brakes yet. Everything looked good and then all of a sudden I started to hear a hissing noise and a surge in the RPM’s. So now every time I push on the brake pedal, l get that surge of RPM’s. Seems odd that my brake booster would all of a sudden go bad. At this point I installed new vacuum hoses and a new check va…
Last reply by lcord,
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