Technical Articles
Technical articles and how-to articles
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Hi all Right Hand Drivers. I have been fortunate is obtaining the Fairlady Z parts catalog on CD from Sakijo. This covers the S-30, HS-30 & PS-30 models in pdf files, up to 1973. Also included [on separate files], are catalogs for GS-30 up to '74 and S-30/ S-31 [haven't heard of S31 before]. No doubt AlanT will enlighten us about this model! If anyone in OZ would like a copy, I'm happy to copy and mail them to you. $10 AUD should cover costs such a CD, post & packing. PM for any further details. MOM
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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This came from the Mail List some time back and is due to be included at Z Home's articles. I've added a couple of notes and am posting it here due to it's relevance to recent discussions. Going through some old e-mails and noticed this one. Saw one answer, but felt that there was a bit more information that should be included. Jean-Pierre Lemonde wrote: Question: The 240Z was pre-wired for fog lights. Anybody knows where the wires end up in the car and ultimately where would be the switch? Answer: The 240’s had the fog lamp wires taped with blue vinyl tape to the main LIGHT wiring harness, in front of the radiator. You should find two sets of wires right by the w…
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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To convert some carbureted vehicles to EFI, we recommend fitting a fuel surge tank to avoid fuel feed problems, especially during hard cornering. This is also useful on many stock EFI cars which have poorly baffled tanks. The surge tank stores a small amount of fuel for the high pressure pump to pick up if flow from the main tank is interrupted for any reason. Usually the tank is mounted in the engine compartment. Fuel is piped to it by either a stock engine driven mechanical pump or a low pressure electric pump. Often the stock electric pump can be used. A high pressure EFI pump will be mounted below the surge tank. The fuel gravity feeds into this pump and goes to the …
Last reply by ChrisA, -
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- 2k views
How do you evaluate the condition of used parts? Here is how I grade used parts. <O:p</O:p The lower the number the more time and materials it will take to put the part in exlempory shape suitable for use in a stock class show and gold medalion winner-with no loss in points. <O:p</O:p <O:p</O:p 10) Plastic parts need only to be mounted. If they are not NOS then they are as perfect as the day they were issued from Nissan, sheet metal parts need priming and paint and have absolutely no damage(in many cases better than what came from the dealer). <O:p</O:p9 ) Plastic needs only light cleaning, or very slight attention to be a 10. Sheet metal may hav…
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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I was asked via PM to describe in more detail what a degree wheel is and does, so I took the liberty of using a current mildly hot N/A L-28 build that we are building here at Rusch Motorsports to use as the example, but substituted in arbitrary cam specs for clarification. For those of you reading this to learn how to do this on your own engine, do not use the cam specs listed here, these specs are for an arbitrary Turbo cam, and yours will most certainly be different. If you are going to be degreeing the cam, Those “shinyâ€� links on the timing chain and the notched cam sprocket should only be used for installing the cam so that the valves don’t crash into the pist…
Last reply by Zedrally, -
- 1 reply
- 4.3k views
For those interested in genuine Dana Spicer U Joints for their 240Z, here are the part numbers you would need. See attached chart. Position 1 and 2 = Part Number 5-1501X Postions 3 thru 6 = Part Number 5-1505X If you have a shop in your area that does driveline work and sells Dana Spicer, you can have them ordered in.
Last reply by texasz, -
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The following is how to build a tow bar for your Z and save yourself the cost of paying someone to tow yours around. I did this on my 280z. I assume a 240z will be similar, but may require some different steps, none the less, it’s all about the same. In the words of Clint Eastwood in Heartbreak Ridge, “Improvise, Adapt, Overcomeâ€�. Total cost is about 125 dollars. This ‘fix’ assumes you have both A) another vehicle to tow a car with and a rolling chassis for this to work. List of materials you will need include: - 3 inch angle iron, 8 feet of the stuff, I used 3/8 inch - Possibly an angle grinder - A level - A drill and a good set of high strength drill bi…
Last reply by 280z1975, -
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MSD 6A Installation with 280zx distributor and 240Z tach I have tested this setup. And it’s working fine on my car. It's not a big work to get it working or hard to do. Just follow the installation instruction from MSD, for how to connect wires etc. I thought someone might have use for this post to make it even easier to do it. Some facts of the hw included in the setup: MSD 6A, PN 6200 MSD tach adapter, PN 8610 MSD Blaster coil2, PN 8202 280zx distributor from a -82(NA 2+2). Fitted in my -73 240Z with original tach. Idle RPM dropped from 800 to 400. Needs very little or no choke. Runs smother, better now. But its hard to say if its fee…
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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:classic: :squareeye While I was getting ready to swap out my auto trans for a manual in my 260Z I did alot of reading first. Both here and in ZCAR.com If it were'nt for these two sites I am sure I would of wasted a lot of time and money. Anyway, while I was reading about this swapI ran across the "pesky spacer" on the rear of the crankshaft. Had I not known about that ahead of time I would of surely tried to install the manual and pulled out what little hair I have left. What I didn't find was any photos of this spacer. Sooooo here are some pics of it in place and off the crank. I hope this helps someone in the future. Again thanks to all who have posted and m…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I refinished the "Z" hubcaps for my '73 a while back, but some of the center "Z" emblems were in less than perfect shape. One problem is emblems that are cloudy or hazy looking. I've used a couple of Meguiar's products on the front turn signal lenses, side markers and rear tail lamp lenses with great results (#17 Clear Plastic Cleaner & #10 Clear Plastic Polish). On a whim, I decided to try them on the "Z" hubcap emblems. Again the results were great! First step is to remove the emblem from the hubcap. I use a small pick to pry up the tabs on the retainers, then gently use pliers to remove them. Once off the hubcap, I used an old toothbrush and dish soap to tho…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 9 replies
- 8.2k views
The fume problem, as most of you know, has to do with the Z car’s aerodynamics. The simplest explanation I’ve read is that a bubble of air gets trapped around the rear end of the car at speed. Since the exhaust exits back there, its fumes get trapped in this bubble. If there are ANY openings in the rear of the car, they will allow this fume-laden air into the cabin. My efforts on solving this problem were based on a lot of information gathered from the online forums. Since I couldn’t find any one, definitive explanation on this subject, I gathered these all tips into a folder and addressed them, one by one. I also discovered a few things that I did not find in th…
Last reply by dogma420, -
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feedback from some references: "I'm running 3 x 40PHH-S with 32mm chokes on a Harada inlet manifold, Option 76 Degree cam, larger valves, raised compression and some porting of the ( E88 ) head. Exhaust system starts at an Option manifold running into a full stainless twin-pipe up and over layout. On my current setup the Main Jets are 160s and the Air Corrector / Main Air Bleed are 210s. All other settings and sizes are stock for the 'S' model 40PHH" The stock 44PHH Mikuni jetting for the L-series sixes ( as recommended by Nissan's tech staff ) sold as Sports Option parts was as follows: MAIN VENTURI = 37mm MAIN JET = 160 AIR CORRECTOR JET = 180 PILOT JET = 55 EMULSION T…
Last reply by Joez,
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