Technical Articles
Technical articles and how-to articles
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Months and months and months ago, we had discussions about cleaning up and / or replacing the hardware as part of the restoration. Not just the nuts and bolts, although a major portion, but the little metal bits and pieces that hold the car together and fasten things. Hose clamps, brake parts and fittings, linkage and such. At some point all the golden cadmium plated stuff is going to have to look absolutely clean and georgeous. Some guys tried to buy new hardware and we found that a lot of it is not the same as the piece we took off the car. At least that is the case for me. You wouldn't believe all the odd little peculiarities about the first cars. I didn't want …
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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I recently purchased a new fuse box cover and Z plate on ebay for the console in my '73 240Z. Both new pieces have chrome accents around the perimeter of the part. My Z is an automatic, and the shift plate has a similar contour that I thought would look good with chrome, too; however, I would imagine that it would be extremely expensive to have chrome applied to the shift plate, especially for just one part, so real chrome was not an option. :lick: I've been looking for alternatives that would look good, especially to the untrained eye and casual observer. None of the paints or pens I've seen have the ability to provide a comparable shine. But, while perusing a non-…
Last reply by beandip, -
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When I detailed the components in the engine bay of my 240Z I wanted to refinish the brake hard lines, fuel lines, hood prop, throttle linkage, washer nozzles etc... to duplicate the original cadmium plating these parts had; however it seemed cost prohibitive to get all the pieces replated, especially since my car is a weekend driver and not a show car. I ended up using a product from Eastwood (www.eastwood.com) called Golden Cad System paint that does a pretty good job of duplicating the cadmium finish at a much lower cost. The Golden Cad System consists of three colors of paint: a golden base coat, a green zinc coat, and a red zinc coat. I started by cleaning the par…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
- 20 replies
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Another project I completed a while ago was repainting the pillar emblems. I started by cleaning the old emblem with soap and water. Then I used a bit of Scotchbrite pad, a small metal pick and a Prep Pen to remove most of the old paint, especially the white paint in the Z. Another bath removes the traces of old paint and bits of fiberglass from the Prep Pen. I used Testors model paint and the finest brush I could find at the hobby store to repaint the emblem. Flat black and eggshell white seem to be quite close to the original colors. The same process can be used for the hood emblem, fender emblems and rear hatch emblems. On the larger emblems, such as the rear ha…
Last reply by lonetreesteve, -
- 20 replies
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Pretty simple and basic but thought I'd share how I do it. It's getting that time of year for us Z nuts that live in the cold climate that have to protect our Z's from the sloppy slushy salty roads Before I tuck my Z away in the garage for the long winter season, I double check all my fluid levels and condition, then I clean the exterior really good and give it a good wax job. Then I squirt oil into all my doors, hatch, and hood to protect it from moisture. I also make sure the gas tank is FULL, then I remove the battery for obvious reasons. Once they freeze, there junk. Then I put half a can of Sea Foam into the gas tank to stabilize the fuel. Then last but not least I…
Last reply by nwcubsman, -
- 4 replies
- 3k views
Automotive brake fluid has many responsibilities. Corrosion protection and lubrication of brake system components are only a portion of the role brake fluid must play. All automobiles that have a hydraulic braking system must use brake fluid in order for the brake system to operate. The type of fluid used can depend on the type of vehicle and the demands of the vehicles brake system. The two most common brake fluids used in the automotive industry are fluids that contain Polyalkylene Glycol Ether and fluid that contains Silicone or Silicium-based Polymer. Both Fluids are common but very different in regards to the manner in which they perform. Fluids containing Polyalkl…
Last reply by Gav240z, -
- 4 replies
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Step 12. Install the small optical sensor support bracket on the bottom screw hole and attach the ground wire you moved out of the way on step 8. The first photo does not show the ground wire attached. Do so before you go on to the next step. Step 13. Install the trigger wheel on the shaft paying close attention to the flat sides on the shaft and the matching flat sides inside the trigger wheel. Step 14. Install the optical sensor to the support bracket from step 10 and check for proper spacing and no rubbing/interference. Step 15, Route wires out of notch in distributor housing making sure there is no interference with the moving parts inside the distributor and seal…
Last reply by vercingetorix, -
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Troubleshooting electrical problems on older Z's is often an art. Schematics, such as the Haymes manual are good clues, but often not exact. I thought I'd post a help note for those trying to fix brake light problems as I recently did on my 72. The circuit for the brake lights is more than just power though the brake switch at the pedal. The brake lights share function with the hazard switch as well as the individual left and right turn signals. Therefore, the circuitry involves routing through the hazard switch as well as the turn signal controller. Power for the brake lights is direct from the battery (it is not gated by the ignition/accessory key) through a 20A fus…
Last reply by 72SLOZ, -
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I must start this out by saying that I AM NOT a certified auto technician and as such cannot be held liable for any damage done to you or your vehicle while following this article. By using this article you assume all responsibility for your own safety and the well being of your vehicle. While I tried to the best of my knowledge to include the things that I thought were important this article is not all-inclusive. Proceed with caution and at your own risk but also please enjoy the fact that you will save money and have the sense of accomplishment a person gets from doing their own maintenance/repair work on their own vehicle. Step 1. Read the instructions very carefully,…
Last reply by dhoneycutt, -
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More of an FYI than anything else... As we add this kind of info it can only help others as they figure out basic jet sizes and such based on their application. My Engine: Triple Mikuni 44PHH bought new from Mikuni USA (as such fitted with all stock jet/venturi sizes) fresh E88 head fitted with larger N42 valves & stock cam fresh F54 L28 stock bottom end I had noticed a little bit of detonation in 3rd and 4th at WOT I swapped out the main jets (150) to the next size up (155) and that seems to have cured the problem. Incidentally my 120mile roundtrip commute is a good time to figure out average MPG too: With a 4.11 rear end and the stock 4spd I run between 4000 and 450…
Last reply by Mike, -
- 1 reply
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For the front suspension rebuild on my '73 240Z I had purchased a pair of Meyle ball joints on e-bay. At $45 for the pair I thought it was a good deal; however, when I went to install these new ball joints I found that they don't quite fit the transverse links. :disappoin The bolt hole pattern on the ball joint matches up fine with the bolt holes on the transverse link, but the body of the ball joint won't fit into the large round hole on the link. With the ball joint body positioned in the transverse link, I could only get one bolt to thread, the rest of the bolt holes were rotated out of position so that no other bolts could be installed (see exhibit b_4). :mad: …
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
- 8 replies
- 2.5k views
This is for people that are interesting getting a set of Z hubcaps to restore. The hubcaps I refer to are for the late 71-76 model years. I mainly restored my own hubcaps instead of buying already restored ones or nos ones as I wanted to save some money. I bought a decent set off of ebay for 50USD including shipping. The paint was not in great shape and there were a few dings in the painted areas, but there were no dings or scratches on the exposed chrome areas. This is key because a lot of that will not be able to be removed without damaging the chrome. The backs were also quite rusted too. All of the emblems were present as well as the pins with clips on the bac…
Last reply by ChrisA,
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